I was just wondering what normal operating temp should be for our rotary in hot temperatures..

My car today ran up to close to 190 on my gauge , but it was like 99 degrees out today.

Other days its been around 90-95 its went up to 185-187 ish

My car is a nonturbo 87 so you all know, im sure normal running temps may differ on turbo models.


So just let me know , thanks.

 

I dont have a gauge with #'s, but I had a s4 t2 engine i blew running 50/50 coolant. I got it rebuilt with the same water pump and stuff and its running a lil colder on my gauge running 100% water.

 

Anything below 225F is fine.


-Ted

 

The stock thermostat is fully open at 200 F. You're not even hitting that. You're fine.

 

yeah my T2 would sit at around 200 in really hot weather but that is because of the front mount (I have a fluidyne rad though). my n/a would still run at about 185-190 w/o AC in that type of weather.

 

you'll run a little cooler with pure water than with a mixture because water is a better conductor of heat than ethylene glycol, and also has a higher boiling point. However, it also rusts stuff and freezes at a higher temp, which doesnt happen when you mix with ethylene glycol.

 

My engine has hit 210 numorus times. Thats a bit high for me but I know its fine. It only went that high because of how I had my rad positioned. Its not like that anymore.

Actually its the other way around for the boiling point. Take a look at this link
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pr...col-d_363.html

 

Is there any way to test your coolant/water mix to see what the mixture is ? I would be curious to know what mine is...because I know im running some coolant but I dont think its much.

So to be safe i wouldnt really want to go any higher than 210 , because then it would be pretty much around boiling temp and that cant be good.

On the other hand maybe its time i flushed and replaced my coolant at least then i can have more of an idea of my mixture (id prolly run about 30% coolant), but ive only ran the engine for about 12,000 miles on the rebuild so i dont really think a coolant flush is needed yet is it ?

 

I get up to 210-215 with AC and my FMIC in 100 degree weather.

 

hm, i always thought the boiling point was the other way around. Im assuming propylene glycol and ethylene glycol are close enough for the data to be valid?

 

Its the pressure of the system that increases the boiling point.

 

Wow, I drove a long way killing myself by having the heater on cause I don't want my engine to overheat. Thought it was supposed to be lower in heat like this...

 

It is the other way around. Coolant helps raise the boiling point of the water.

 

It's a specific gravity meter, and I seen the Prestone ones with the little colored ***** in almost any car parts store or the car parts section in all the major chain stores.


At "0" atmosphere, it's 100C or 212F.
The standard radiator cap at 0.9 bar or about 13psi raises the boiling point to like...230F?
I don't know the formular off-hand, but I'm sure someone else will...


-Ted

 

Very bad. Besides the rust, the lower boiling point removes any advantage you might gain from the lower temps.


You're supposed to change your coolant every 3 years, regardless of mileage. That's how long the anti-corossion additives last. OTOH, the cooling system is very important and more often doesn't hurt. I've heard annual is better.

I don't think there are simple formulas to find the boiling point based on pressure and % antifreeze. Just google it and find a table.

wtfdidusay82: Anything between 30% and 70% antifreeze is fine. "50:50 mixture" isn't meant to be precise.

Running close to boiling can still cause localized boiling ("hot spots") even if you don't overheat. More of a long term damage issue. 190F is still super low, though.

 

My microtech'd TII runs at a max of about 190-195...on 100+ degree days...

That's with a FMIC and a fluidyne. It's usually at about 187 degrees...