rotarydelight

i'm going front mount and i need to relocate the battery. i am wondering which kit you guys use? how much trouble is it to install, and how much did you guys pay for the kit? thanks

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

kit? get some THICK wire (2 or 4 gage iirc, maybe less), battery terminal connectors, and just wire it back there. fab up a mount for it using the stock battery tray and strap it in

takahashiRyosukeFC3S

made my own, it's not much trouble check the archives for a "how to". it didn't cost much, just wires, distribution blocks, and battery strap.

if your getting into the electronics of your car reground it if you haven't already.

TR

876portturbo

iTrader: (4)

I got a Summit battery tray for the rear bin, its was only twenty dollars and looks nice, it has wingnuts on both sides for holding the battery down, its chrome if you like that kind of thing. I used 4 gauge wire I think, my rear is gutted so it was easy to install into the passenger bin.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Funny how no one mentions using a fuse or breaker...

It is absolutely necessary that you put a fuse or beaker on the 12V feed from the battery as close as physically possible to the battery itself. With the way that most people run their 12V feed to the starter/engine bay, it is only a matter of time before the cable rubs through and shorts (not if....when). Without the protection of a breaker/fuse the battery will short directly to ground and cause the entire length of the cable to melt and catch fire...Thus burning down the car...

Personally I like to use breakers since a breaker can be easily reset and tripped at any time to cut power to the car. Fuses blow and must be replaced which sucks if you do something stupid at the side of the road in the middle of nowhere....

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

what type of breaker should i buy? and can you just get them at like advanced?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You generally will not find them at an auto parts store. I buy Bussmann breakers, and generally use 150A for the battery. I get them from Waytek Wiring at http://www.waytekwiring.com . They're listed under Hi-Amp Breakers.

Black91n/a

I beleive that shoule be Waytek Wire. http://www.waytekwire.com/index.htm

That's where I got mine from, and I also ordered some really heavy duty shrink wrap at the same time. It's wonderful stuff, it helps protect against shorts, and it gives the joints some extra physical strength. Hell, it was strong enough to work on my dad's power steering hose with a hole in it. That held for several weeks while the new hose was on order.

http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/BA.../battrelo.html

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Also, if you ever plan on taking your car to the drags, you'll need a fulyl sealed battery box, or a dry cell battery (Odessey, and their pricey).

Im doing a custom aluminum box around my optima, all the other universal ones I looked at were too big for the storage bins...

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

They sell Bussman breakers at Advance Auto Parts.

I think I have enough room behind the front seat that I can mount the battery there.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Here are somepics of mine. But do not go with a 100amp breaker. Way to small. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=progress

PatrickT

My batt is now there the spare tire used to be.
Didnt use any fuse, but a cable from BMW that is used for espacially such purpose.
I didnt know where to find a fuse that can handle such high currents.
If the car burns down , I will tape it for you

-Patrick

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I always use 150A and have never had one trip...100A might be too small though. The Bussman breakers have a load curve that defines how long they take to trip at various overload levels...Something like 1000A and it trips instantly, 700A for half a second, 500A for 10 seconds, etc...

Have you ever tripped the 100A unit?

Also, make sure to add your thread to my projects sticky!

RETed

I would use at least a 150A.
I think the 100A is too small.

I used to trip a 150A guaranteed when trying to crank 3 - 5 times trying to unflood (Haltech install).
Upon normal use, the 150A should be okay.
But I'd worry with a 100A.

I think the stock starter is rated at 90A peak current draw?


-Ted

danegerous

iTrader: (10)

Strong bump but is there no hazard of battery fumes or anything? I thought you needed to have the battery ventilated or sealed and such

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

That issue was already addressed by classicauto in post #9

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Ya I was gonna say, "There are kits for this?" Have you seen all the people who don't even have their stock battery boxes and hold-downs anymore? It's just sitting there. Not that I advocate such mounting, I'm just saying it doesn't take much to hold the battery in place. Even the stock setup isn't too fancy. Use your imagination.

Ideally you'd use a breaker rated for the same amperage as the main fuse (80A) and get a slow-blow breaker. But that's the ideal world. Unless you can find such a thing and you're sure you have the right part (how slow is "slow"?), you're probably better off trying what people like Aaroncake have done in the real world. On the flipside you might be unlucky and end up with a 150A fuse that trips too fast. I mean, does the starter pull more than that?

danegerous

iTrader: (10)

I didn't mean just to mean race sanctions I meant more or less for safety in general. Thanks for the help though.

evl mnky

question. If you relocated the battery would you ground the (-) terminal to the chasis back there and then also ground the (-) that originaly went to the battery to the chasis under the hood?

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

sure, why not? its not like its gonna hurt anything

RETed

That's the preferred method.


-Ted

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

i used the moroso kit. Its not too expensive and is considered a sealed box. Although, I've never have it fully closed since I got it. Typically, you wont ever be exposed to the 'vapors' from the battery. Unless you car is completely air tight, and you sit in it for a couple hours with no air...
But i installed the vent tube anyway.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=progress+on+7

It was really easy to install. Its pretty much fits in the passenger rear bin, but you'll have to modify the lid a little to make it look seamless.

psychotic7

i drilled holes at the bottom of the driver's side compartment and ran my wires through there, of course that is what is use to house my optima red top. any stereo shop has the wiring you need, they sell awesome quality wire for amps which works well for a battery relocation project. the shop here sells up to 0 gauge at like a buck a foot.

freemanrx7

Try this

http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/BA.../battrelo.html