The true duals are a good choice for NA's but its really loud...

 

Do you need to go with a manual rack when you pull the power steering? Any need to change up belts and pulleys so your water pump doesn't cavetate?

(trying to sound intellegent...)

 

the other belt i believe was wrapped around the smog pump. you can either run a dual alternator pulley, or do the 3L220 belt trick (www.1300cc.com i think). i only have one belt wrapped around my dual alternator pulley (the other one wasn't the same size and i never bothered cause i never had any problems).
i think you just plain old remove the power steering and you'll be fine, otherwise i'd imagine someone would have added what you'd also need to do.

 

. . . tricky forum and its double posts.
www.1300cc.com

 

Rx-7Addict- Its NOT loud. Refer yourself to this thread for proof of this. Stop spreading lies like the rest of the people that spread those rumors. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=212130

 

Loud is a personal opinion, just because you deem it not loud doesn't mean it's not loud to everyone. An opinion is hardly a lie.

 

i heard audio files of one and, from them, the car sounded rather tolerable. sounded similar to my full exhaust. i think most of us should be able to agree on what is loud and what isn't. its typically *tolerable* that people have differing opinions of.

 

While your point is rock solid, its not applicable to me. Every 7 I end up with started with a blown or dying motor. Before it hits the street the motor is renewed, major tune performed, injectors serviced, etc.

One of the upgrades I was thinking about is non performance but equally important - replacing oil cooler lines with SS Braided. A good thread is going on right now that partially hits on this. I just had a hose blow on one car, fortunatly, 1/2 block from home. All future cars will get this upgrade. 100.00 DYI will save a bundle.

 

Compared to sound clips of: Apexi N1's, Cork Sport single, your bomz mufflers, and my experience with MAX's magnaflow mufflers they are the quietest I have heard. I am not talking about tone but volume.

 

About how much power would be gain if on average would i expect to get from Taking the A/C power stering, and emissions out ??

 

Power as in HP not much. Maybe 2-3hp. The advantage is easier reving and less weight on the vehicle making the HP you already have more usefull.

 

About how much power gain well i expect id i take ou the a/c and power stering ?

 

hmm....the thought of scrapping the A/C in sunny southern California will never cross my mind!

and seeing how you live in LA....in my opinion, sacrificing comfort for a few measly horsepower isnt too smart. unless you live in Lousisiana (dont know how hot it gets down there)

 

I stated that info above.


EDIT: Supra calviN- Try Texas summers buddy.

 

My car perforns very well in the mornig when i turn it on and worm it up, but when i drive around for 20 min and the engine worms up some more the car dosen't reat like it did when i firt drove it in the day. Cant any one tell me wats wrong ??

 

for the record i do live in Los Angeles CA it freaKING HOT OUT HERE I GIVE U THAT BUT MY A/C DON'T THROW OUT COLD AIR AND I NEVER USE IT ...

 

your air filter sucking in heat from engine bay

 

WHell hiGGi do u have any tips i would reaaly apresiated.

 

Dude you need to give more details your not making any sense. What is your car doing that makes it seem like its not running right? Then maybe we can help you some more.

This topic is really controversial, we could spend all day arguing about whats better. Just remeber that when you start modding your car it affects many diffrent parts of the engine and the car as a whole in many diffrent ways. So once you mod one thing you have to start modding somthing else. Id say try to keep your car pretty stock or else have a big budjet for all the other things that are going to go along with the particular mods you have in mind... Just as an example modding your exaust and making it free flowing is going to **** with your emissions and make your car run rich which will require a form of controlling it which could be an S-AFC which costs around 250 bucks. I mean it all just trickles down.

 

Probably a dumb question, but how you go about getting rid of PS and AC? Just remove the beltS?

 

Trigger 323, you can make a box to cover your air filter and make a hole under it to the air below, which will be colder than air in the engine bay. This will make the car faster after it warms up.

 

Some have done that to reduce drag. The hardcore HP gainers remove the components. The weight loss will also release a few pony's. If I were doing this on a daily driver I would somehow cap of the spots where the lines are removed. No telling if i would want those two components back on (long trip as an example).

 

What do you mean by Cap? And yea, i would love to keep it so that one day, if needed I could put AC and PS back on. Anyone have any pictures of what to remove?

 

Just rip that crap off and dump it into the trash can.

 

You know, instead of totally trashing your emissions system (no reason to do so, and no power gains anyway), why don't you read the FAQ at the top of the page...Then, you will find out that the normal power upgrade process goes something like this:

1. Exhaust. If you can stand it and don't need cats, the full dual is best.
2. Intake. Cone filter
3. S-AFC. Major gains to be had here once you can control the fuel ratios.
4. Extras: remove power steering (do it PROPERLY and replace with manual rack), loose the A/C, remove emissions rack if you don't need it (pointless for power gain, but simplifies the engine and reduces weight), igniton box

The #4 items might result in 4 HP increase, so generally, they are NOT WORTH IT.

Also, search for a topic "how to make a beefy NA". Lots of info. This has ALL been covered countless times before.