ok so my battery has been draining from 12 volts to 1.4 volts and wont go any lower. so I put my volt meter on the positive and negitive posts and with the car warmed up the battery was at 12 volts. so I turn the car off and it stays running for (I used a stop watch) for 3.5 seconds. now the volts are 11.65 and droping by .01 volt evary two seconds. so I pull all of the fuses out and the main fuse to and the voltage stays at 11.65. and the next morning I go and test to see if the battery is still charged and it droped down to 11.43 I put back all of the fuses and try to start it and I get a click and nothing. I get back from work and I test the battery and it is at 1.43 volts so I jump start it and charge the battery and shut it off still stays running after the key is out. and the battery is at 11.65 and is droping so I pull the EGI COMP fuse and the drain starts sloing down and then I pull the EGI INJ and the drain stops and starts going back up slowley. and I decided to see if pulling the white alternater plug to see if that whould help. and now I waiting to see if that whould stop my battery from draining.


so if any one has any ideas about what is draining my battery. and if the EGI COMP and EGI INJ are supposed to pull a little current or what. and if the pulling the alt pulg helps at all.

 

How old is your battery? 5 years old is the typical life for a decent or good battery.
Also, has your car been jolted real hard recently? Sometimes harsh impacts can ruin a battery, too.

 

dunno if this helps but i can pull my key out with the car running

 

+1 on checking the battery. YOu have have the battery load tested at most auto parts store. Even if there is a large drain it still shouldn't drop 10volt+ in such a short period of time.
Questions. Do you have to jump start your car everytime you start it with your current battery and does it really read 12volt when you check the voltage on top of your battery? If so your alt might not be working correctly and i would recommed having that check also.

 

Your local Advance Auto Parts should have a tester on a cart that they can roll out to your car. It'll test both your battery and your alternator, and they'll do it for free. I'm sure other parts stores have those, too, I just don't know which ones.

 

the battery is new and is only 3 months old and it it not my dd. and if I leave the battery connected I have to jump start it because it drains so fast. also I just replaced the starter so I know that is not part of the problem. when the car is charging the battery it reads 13 volts. it has not been hit at any time.

 

Take it to Advance, they test for free, and it will save you a bunch of time having guys on the internet attempt to diagnose your problem. They will give you the answer inside of 10 minutes. All we can give you are guesses.

 

yeah definately get it tested, just because it's only 3 months old doesn't say much. Some batteries just end up faulty.

 

so you pulled the egi inj fuse and then the drain on the battery stopped then battery voltage went up?? then it sounds to me your egi inj fuse is causing the draw?? any loose connections, any wires grounding out??

 

Well if the battery sees any sort of load, which would be any constant source in your car, it would immediately start to drop if it is going south. Take it to get tested.

 

The huge clue should be that the car keeps running for a little bit after you turn the key off... The battery is fine, your alternator, or more specifically, the regulator in the alternator, is shot. Looks like its time to upgrade to the FD alt.

 

so what your saying that is if I replace the alternator the car will stop running after the key is out. and will this also stop the battery from being drained?

 

yea, you can replace it with a stock alternator and it should solve both those problems, or you can take this (like any other car problem) as an opportunity to upgrade

 

I don't see how that will make the car shut off when it's supposed to...

 

I have heard that it chould be the problem that makes it keep running. so replace the alternator but when I put the egi comp fuse in with the alternator unpluged that fuse starts draining the battery. and it also drains on the egi ing circuit. so what is on those circuits?

 

Ummmm, I think hooking up the alternator wrong makes it run when the key is in the Off position.

 

bump

 

this makes me wonder how you could possibly hook the alternator up wrong when there's only one way to do it heh

 

well I found my problem the PO decided to remove the main relay and just put two jumper cables in the tan/clear four plug connecter. and just drive it and evary thing will be ok. except that when you turn the key off the fuel pump is still getting power (I think). and that is why the car keeps running after the key is out. and why my battery kills its self.

 

Well that was smart of him.... good grief. Glad you got it fixed.

 

well I was looking around the trailing coil area and when I saw the jumper wires I thought that dose not look right. so then I was looking around the firewall/fender area I saw that the paint was cleaner in the shape of a box. so I looked in my haynes manual but they did not show anything. so I asked a guy at work if he chould think of any thing and he said to check all the fuses and relays to see if one of them was bad. so I went to check the main relay and low and be hold it was missing. so I called a local parts place and they said it whould cost $200 for one. well I went to ebay and found one for $16 dollers with a 30 day warranty and bought that one. now im guessing that will solve bolth my problems but I wont know untill it gets here.

 

haha, glad you found one much cheaper. $200 vs $16 = nuts

 

and that $200 is with a work place discount (I work at bell tire)