What is it worth? 87 Turbo II Pricing discussion, your input please.
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What is it worth? 87 Turbo II Pricing discussion, your input please.
Fellow Rotorheads,
I found a very nice 1987 Turbo II, that I am interested in, please let me know your opinion on what the car is worth.
It is a 1987 Red with grey cloth. Almost 60k miles, all original, no mods, no dents, no issues, everything works, no complaints, with the exception of mismatched tire pairs.
Interior/exterior/mechanical all point to a 9.0-9.5 out of 10 car.
The car looks as if it is 6 months old, not 20+years old. No compression test yet, however let us assume it is normal.
I think it is worth one price, the seller another, we are too far apart.
What is it worth?
Thank you for your response.
I found a very nice 1987 Turbo II, that I am interested in, please let me know your opinion on what the car is worth.
It is a 1987 Red with grey cloth. Almost 60k miles, all original, no mods, no dents, no issues, everything works, no complaints, with the exception of mismatched tire pairs.
Interior/exterior/mechanical all point to a 9.0-9.5 out of 10 car.
The car looks as if it is 6 months old, not 20+years old. No compression test yet, however let us assume it is normal.
I think it is worth one price, the seller another, we are too far apart.
What is it worth?
Thank you for your response.
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Well My friend bought his White 88 Turbo for 2500 but it was salv and it died a few months later from a coolant leak in the block
but the car did look and perform perfectly..So i'd Offer the fellow 3000~4000 depending on paint and interior condition and how much paper work he has on the car
btw how much did the Seller want for his car?
but the car did look and perform perfectly..So i'd Offer the fellow 3000~4000 depending on paint and interior condition and how much paper work he has on the car
btw how much did the Seller want for his car?
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I was hoping to get a few more responses before i posted the prices.
But for fun information, my father spent $10k in '89 for his used identical 87 Turbo2 with 40k miles, and I bought my own identical used 1987 Turbo2 that had 60k miles for $5500 in 1991.
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#10
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i just purchased a 87 TII , black with gray interior, 44,700 miles on it, after market all season tires, re-amemiya shift ****, and K&N air filter, its mint inside and out, S5 and S4 tails, 105 psi rear rotor and 101psi front rotor.
now it needs a clutch (slips when being hard on it), and possibly a driveshaft (binding U-joint)
i payed $5600 (talked the guy down from "$6k firm"), which some might feel is high, but i think it was a fair price for the condition the car is in, and how well it has been maintained + the carfax is clean.
the hardware on the exhaust is still goldish, and it still smells like a brand new 80's car.
im very happy with my purchase.
i would say to the original poster, look at every single thing on the car, make sure everything works as it should, do a compression check, and drive the car hard while test driving.
then make an offer thats lower than what your willing to pay for the car.
as long as you leave happy with the car, and with the amount you payed for the car, that is all that matter's.
check my thread's to see my new TII.....
now it needs a clutch (slips when being hard on it), and possibly a driveshaft (binding U-joint)
i payed $5600 (talked the guy down from "$6k firm"), which some might feel is high, but i think it was a fair price for the condition the car is in, and how well it has been maintained + the carfax is clean.
the hardware on the exhaust is still goldish, and it still smells like a brand new 80's car.
im very happy with my purchase.
i would say to the original poster, look at every single thing on the car, make sure everything works as it should, do a compression check, and drive the car hard while test driving.
then make an offer thats lower than what your willing to pay for the car.
as long as you leave happy with the car, and with the amount you payed for the car, that is all that matter's.
check my thread's to see my new TII.....
#12
It's funny cause I just got into an accident and the adjuster may total my car and pay way less than what the above posted car would sell for. I'm not that far away and here in cali TII's are around if you look. This car may sell for 8K in the right state/region.
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Thanks for all of the responses.
The seller really wanted $10k, but would not go lower than $8000.
I wanted to pay $5500 but would not go higher than $6000.
It was on ebay, but never received any bids at the sellers starting price.
Now if the seller did a compression test, and had good readings, as well as having the complete service history, I think it could be a $6500 car. However, the seller did not know about the importance of compression testing a motor, so I explained it to him.
The seller really wanted $10k, but would not go lower than $8000.
I wanted to pay $5500 but would not go higher than $6000.
It was on ebay, but never received any bids at the sellers starting price.
Now if the seller did a compression test, and had good readings, as well as having the complete service history, I think it could be a $6500 car. However, the seller did not know about the importance of compression testing a motor, so I explained it to him.
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i would say to the original poster, look at every single thing on the car, make sure everything works as it should, do a compression check, and drive the car hard while test driving.
then make an offer thats lower than what your willing to pay for the car.
as long as you leave happy with the car, and with the amount you payed for the car, that is all that matter's.
check my thread's to see my new TII.....
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I paid $2400
I recently purchased a red/grey cloth 87 TII out of a garage for $2400. The car is 8/10, completely stock with 120K. The paint and body are excellent, and there is no rust (high and dry in MT) and the compression is good. However, due to the age there is a lot of work to put into the car to make it roadworthy, and even doing all the work myself, it takes time and money. Most sellers do not want to acknowledge this. Remember, supply is limited, there simply aren't that many cars left in good shape. If you are happy with the car, buy it for the best price you can, and enjoy it. You are going to put a lot more money in to it just driving it, and you will want to modify/upgrade it anyway when you are replacing worn out stuff.
I think I got a great deal because I found something that is unusual and in good shape, but when you put the pencil to the paper ($500 tires, struts, $40 thermostats) it adds up fast and quickly exceeds any reasonable value for a 22 year old vehicle. It is worth what it is worth to you, and that's why you see such a wide varience on opinions of value.
I think I got a great deal because I found something that is unusual and in good shape, but when you put the pencil to the paper ($500 tires, struts, $40 thermostats) it adds up fast and quickly exceeds any reasonable value for a 22 year old vehicle. It is worth what it is worth to you, and that's why you see such a wide varience on opinions of value.
#19
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If you're willing to go $6000 for it, make that your offer to the seller and tell him to call you if he doesn't sell the car. If he doesn't get any interest in a few months, he may call you back.
That said, if the compression is good and everything else is pretty much in like-new condition, I'd pay $7000-7500 for it. Maybe only $7000 because there are no service records with it. If you start adding up the cost to fix all the broken stuff on the typical $3000 or $4000 FC, paying more for a really nice one upfront makes sense. Sure, you'll hear stories about guys who found low mileage creampuffs for $2500 on here and I don't doubt they're true, but you have to decide if you're willing to wait months, years, or forever to actually find one of those yourself.
If you do end up paying well over NADA for the car, you might want to look into a stated value insurance policy, though there are often restrictions on the use of the car (e.g., must be garaged, annual mileage or usage limitations, etc.).
That said, if the compression is good and everything else is pretty much in like-new condition, I'd pay $7000-7500 for it. Maybe only $7000 because there are no service records with it. If you start adding up the cost to fix all the broken stuff on the typical $3000 or $4000 FC, paying more for a really nice one upfront makes sense. Sure, you'll hear stories about guys who found low mileage creampuffs for $2500 on here and I don't doubt they're true, but you have to decide if you're willing to wait months, years, or forever to actually find one of those yourself.
If you do end up paying well over NADA for the car, you might want to look into a stated value insurance policy, though there are often restrictions on the use of the car (e.g., must be garaged, annual mileage or usage limitations, etc.).
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