2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

4 piston brake caliper schematics.

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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:39 AM
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4 piston brake caliper schematics.

the re-man'd calipers i purchased some time ago have issues (one has a possible leak at the seam and one is possibly clogged somehow). since theyre past their 1 year warranty i cant return them... i do have a friend that works on the inside, but i still have to talk to him about this. so in the mean time, i want to study the innards of one of these calipers.

something like an exploded diagram would be nice, but ill take anything.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 05:20 AM
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From: Mile High
Factory Service Manual, page p-39.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by clokker
exactly what i was looking for... but...


its not...


arnt the 4 piston calipers sandwiched halfs?
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:37 PM
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http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_g...ing_system.pdf

Braking system.pdf in the coloummn second from the top page 42?

My S5 calipers below

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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 20Bforme
arnt the 4 piston calipers sandwiched halfs?
Yes they are, but they are not to be separated when serviced.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbonut
Yes they are, but they are not to be separated when serviced.

so... for instance... when calipers are rebuilt by an outside company, theyre not completely torn down?
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 04:14 PM
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No
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 04:37 PM
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alright... thanks for the info guys...
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 20Bforme
so... for instance... when calipers are rebuilt by an outside company, theyre not completely torn down?
Originally Posted by OutCold
No
They might be, depending on whether or not there's a frozen piston.
If so, there's an o-ring around the passage for the fluid that must be replaced.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by clokker
They might be, depending on whether or not there's a frozen piston.
If so, there's an o-ring around the passage for the fluid that must be replaced.
u dont part up the caliper too get that o-ring out, u just take out the piston then remove the o-ring
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by OutCold
u dont part up the caliper too get that o-ring out, u just take out the piston then remove the o-ring
hes not talking about that O ring. if you take the sandwiched halfs apart, theres a small O ring that is in between the 2 halfs.


edit: 666
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 04:59 PM
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Rgr
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by OutCold
Rgr
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by OutCold
u dont part up the caliper too get that o-ring out, u just take out the piston then remove the o-ring
There is an o-ring between the two halves of the caliper body that seals the passage that transfers fluid from the inside half to the outside half.
This seal is only accessible when the caliper halves are seperated...which would be necessary if the piston bore(s) needed to be honed or relined.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by clokker
There is an o-ring between the two halves of the caliper body that seals the passage that transfers fluid from the inside half to the outside half.
This seal is only accessible when the caliper halves are seperated...which would be necessary if the piston bore(s) needed to be honed or relined.


so it would be possible for a rebuilt caliper to leak at the seams if that O-ring got smooched or improperly installed.

this is sort of the problem im getting with my driver side. a small bead of fluid builds at the bottom of the caliper when i attempted to bleed it. there is also air getting into that side of the system from somewhere. all of the lines comming from the master cyl. are brand new.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 20Bforme
so it would be possible for a rebuilt caliper to leak at the seams if that O-ring got smooched or improperly installed.
.
Yes, not just possible, but likely.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by clokker
Yes, not just possible, but likely.

damn...
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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Yeah, that's too bad.

It's not terribly difficult to fix however.
Despite all the dire warnings against splitting the calipers, it's actually quite routinely done with race parts.
The Outlaw calipers I ran on the Z were the same design as our stockers and when switching to a thicker rotor all you did was split the caliper and add a spacer plate.

I did this twice with no ill effects...or leaks.

Just make sure you get proper o-rings.
Companies like AP, Wilwood and Outlaw have them available at a reasonable price, so resist the urge to go to Ace Hardware.
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Old May 13, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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20Bforme - what kind of o-ring did you use, where did you get it from?

clokker - do you know if 225-2295 on Outlaw's website will work?
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Old May 13, 2009 | 01:27 PM
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No clue, I don't know what the Mazda o-ring looks like.
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Old May 13, 2009 | 02:00 PM
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I have been looking around for these o rings as well. As long as you use the right material and size you are good.
I found some but they come in 100 pack for 20 bucks so we will see. I didn't know it was going to be suck a pain until it was too late.

I think the material you need is EPDM from what I have found.
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Old May 13, 2009 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MacGyver
20Bforme - what kind of o-ring did you use, where did you get it from?

clokker - do you know if 225-2295 on Outlaw's website will work?


didnt end up needing one... the leak we found wasnt coming from the seam.
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