RyCeKiLlEr

im lookin for the wire that i hook my electric fan up to so that the fan turns off with the car. anyone know where its at?

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

There is one over by the leading coils(? maybe its trailing) either way the coil right by the front headlight. There is a green prong that is unused, just look for the wire that is black with a yellow stripe, that color is +12V ignition switched.

dr0x

Or just hook it up straight to the battery w/ an inline fuse. Then get the temperature switch from http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/electacc.htm

It turns on the fan at a given temp. So its not running when the car isnt on either.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I use the 6 plug connector that Is found at each Shock tower. This harness Is used for the AAS. Obviously not all 7's had this feature but Mazda designed It so It was readily available.

On the harness plug, you'll use the center one that Is opposite from the clip.

I use the Left one for my efan and the Right Is used for my fully blown electric auxilliary port rpm switch.

dr0x

I thought you broke your electric aux port setup?

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

You mean a flopped project? Nah. The Air Compressor (AC) I used was not meant for long durations. I did, however, gain a "heavy duty: AC that still maintains the Integrity of the Auxilliary Ports. Right now, I can't complain.

Jimmy325i

Directly off the battery will keep the fan going untill the thermo switch cools below its switched point.

What I did was use an ignition switched lead to activate the relay which is inline with my thermo switch for the fan's power. Power is fused through the battery for the latching side of the relay. The the ignition power is fed to the coil positive and then the coil negative is fed through the thermo switch to ground.

This configuration is easiest on all components as there is no current running through the relay unless the fan is on, and there is very little current running through the thermo switch to potentially burn it out.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I recommend connecting it directly to the battery (fused, of course) and using a thermal switch and relay to activate it. It is the most reliable thing to do, completely automatic, and works very well. This is how I have my fan set up.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

yea me2, except i have my haltech controlling it. I just used a relay from the A/c.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I used fused line from the battery and a ignition wire from ther front of the car.

The one I used is right in front of the radiator. In the same bumper/compartment as the radiator overflow tank. I think it was a yellow wire. I just turned my key on and fished for ignition source.

I have a efan with temp switch. Now I am thinking of redoing it though so the keys don't have to be in to turn the fan on.

Jimmy325i

Yeah I found a wire up in that cluster as well for the ignition hot lead.

NZConvertible

Always wire up an electric fan via a fuse and relay, or you risk blown fuses, or worse, a fire. Like this:



A handy source for the switched ignition is the 6-pin diagnostic plug by the battery and leading coil.

Jimmy325i

My thermo switch connects to ground when closed. Threaded directly into water jacket on the thermostat housing. A little different than that schematic, but the same idea. I also used a 20A breaker from my parts bin rather than the fuse.

Good use of the a/c switch jason. I'm thinking about using it for the arm switch on my n20. (if I ever go that route)