I think i've already asked this before, but i'm more concerned about 1/4 mile time than hp. I could potentially have a really good deal that I won't want to pass up, but it will mean selling this car. The car won't be in my hands for another half month, and I haven't had a chance to tune it or take it to a track to see times i'd get or anything. The main reason I need to find out will be because i'm trying to see exactly how much i'll want to stick with this car or not. By that I mean how much will I fall in love with it again after having not driven it in 3 months plus all the stuff that will be done with it in the meantime. So here is a list, and i'm looking for approx 1/4 mile times and hp i'd get out of this. I've heard anything from 220-280 so i'm trying to get a better range than that since thats a pretty big difference. So here is the mod list:

89' TII Stock suspension
Brand New BNR Stage II Turbo
FD Wheels with 225 Toyo Proxes all around
S-AFC Dyno/Wideband Tuned at Acosta
4x720cc Injectors
RB 3" Turboback with Bonez Cat Replacing the Presilencer
3" Aluminum TID With A'pexi cone filter
15k miles on mazda reman
No FMIC so probably only going to run like 11psi max when tuned
Walbro 255
TurboXS Type-S BOV
FCD

Thanks for the help again, sorry for asking the same old questions.

- Brian

 

13.1@108 at 12psi

why are you going to all this work just to use an safc and the stock computer? ditch that stock ECU and safc and get a haltech and run some 12.40's @ 112

stock ECU's suck.

edit: BTW, your car is going to flood alot with those 720cc primaries. the stock ecu injects a certian amount of pulses at a certain pulsewidth during cranking and you cannot change it.

 

Not everyone can or wants to spend money on a standalone, though. People have run 12's on stock ECU before and there's nothing wrong with that.

Also, IIRC Kevin Landers Ran 720 primaries and secondaries with an safc on his turbo vert without a problem with starting, so he should be fine.

 

go microtech. 12 with wideband, I think its like 1200

 

if you sell all of the stock EMS, sell the safc, then you only have to pay like 300 bucks for the rest of the haltech man

 

I'm saving up for a lot of different things and I can't really afford it right now. I'm in school and my work load from that is too much already so getting a job is out of the question until at least next semester. Money runs out quick here and it sucks, but can't do much about it.

Eventually i'd like to go with some sort of standalone, but what are my options? What kind of pricing and different units are there and what can they do for me? It would be great to get rid of some clutter and get a standalone, but I haven't really researched it. Maybe if I can get some extra cash during my winter break i'll consider it, but i'm not informed/funded enough now to get one. Also whats the deal with all the standalones then the seperate handheld controllers and stuff? Are those necessary if I would just want to bring it to a place to get it tuned and leave the settings until I upgraded something else? The more info I can get on these the better i'll be.

Another thing, as for the 4x720cc injectors, i've heard of a few people running the same 4 injector setup and had no problems with idle or flooding problems. If i'm having major problems i'll just put back in the stock primaries.

Lastly, is that 13.1 @ 108 based on someone else with a similar setup or are you just trying to make a very precise guess? lol

Thanks for the info guys, the more I get the better suited i'll be.

- Brian

 

On another note, the 4x720cc injectors I got were bought from Kevin himself too, just a funny coincidence. I doubt they were the same ones on the turbovert though.

 

Plus lots of tuning by a qualified haltech tuner.

 

Low 13's @104-108 depending on weather/curb weight/driver

The top mount is now your biggest limiting factor, not the stock ecu. With a front mount, you should have consistent 12 second ET's.

 

just a very price guess.

actually lets get it even more precise... 13.154 @ 108.49

 

So anyone want to tell me about the EMS stuff thats out there?

Also, if I get a 13.1 run @ 108, hell even if I get 13.1 i'll give you a prize! lol

 

get a haltech. there is a whooooole lot of onlne support for rotaries with haltechs. only problem is you need to spend around 1000 bucks + tuning (unless you want to run around rich as hell on a base map with no tuning) mine SHOULD arrive here in the mail tomorrow, but the guy i sent my 900 bucks to hasnt been online since the transaction, so... but anyways. go do a little research in the EMS forum on the main page here. lots of useful info

 

man I wish I would have got your fmic setup jacobcartmill because the guy I got my fmic from hasn't been online since the transaction either.....

 

haltech, wolf, and microtech are probably the 3 largest EMS' that you will run across for the FC. Like Jacob said, check out the EMS section on this and the other boards. Haltech e6k's are starting to get really cheap; however once installed there's still more left to do. Base maps are great to get the car running around, but every set up is going to take some fine tuning. If you're not comfortable tuning the car the most important thing you can do now if you're serious about going stand alone is to find a competent tuner that you trust. Ask your tuner what system they like the best, and then go from there.

 

What kind of stuff can I sell that I won't need that will get me closer to the EMS? I also don't know how long this clutch will last under the new power, so looks like I need to get a damn job

 

my buyer actually received his yesterday

but yeah the guy i bought the haltech from finally replied to me today and said he shipped it out the following day (friday) so hopefully it'll be here tomorrow

 

nice well good luck. The guy I bought the fmic from is eraumazda and I believe he's been a member for a while so I'm not worried I just happend to read some good guy bad guy stuff about him after I bought the fmic and both threads about him say they got the product but it took along time for shipping plus he lives in florida however he said he already shipped it out and that was before this last hurricane.

 

Making the jump to a standlone EMS is a big one. Honestly, I'd worry more about school than your car right now. If you are still on the stock clutch, that's gonna start slipping almost instantly. Replace the clutch, and then just enjoy the car for a while.