Ok, lets say i start the car, it would start then almost wanna stall. but it doesnt because i tap the gas.

overall, it just idles really low, like just above the first line on the fc tach, not 1k. but this doesnt happen all the time.

according to my boost gauge, the compression is fine, just the idle is screwed.

i played with the idle adjustment screw on the turbo side of the motor and i got nothing, i turned and turned and it didnt move.

would this have anthing to do with my timing being retarded?

also, lets say im coming to a light and im in 2nd at 3k, if i put the clutch down to come to a stop, the idle will fall and ALMOST stall, usually i blip it to make sure i dont stall. Even if im just sitting and i rev it, it will fall to a point where u wouild think its going to stall, but then pops back up. it always drops.

any sugestions?

also, i hit a huge bump lastnight and my turbo inlet popped off on the highway, so i rolled to a stop and popped the hood, my turbo was also glowing, is this normal for highway useage, i was kinda movin. should i gut my cat? or get a straight pipe. i would but how would i ensure i wouldnt run lean.


anyways, thanks for any help.

Mike
--87 Turbo II

http://www.nrx7club.com/gallery/images/175.jpg

87 Turbo II 3 inch Mindtrain Downpipe HKS 60 mm catback 90 motor No air pump, pwr steering, no AC. Clutch Masters Stage II G-Force ECU SPI Boost Gauge Greddy BOV Type R Intake Cone 5-way adjustable shocks Koing Monsoons 225/45/17 front 235/45/17 Rear

 

How about *what happens when the bac plug is taken off?*. And have you used a timing lite to see if it is in time? Don't guess at the timing by rotating the cas back and forth. I'd say your compression is pretty darn good if the motor idles at one to two hundred rpm steady. I think you should get a compression gauge and check out the compression anyway but I don't believe that is the problem. I'm sure somebody is going to reply that your cats are clogged but I don't think so. Timing is off. Too retarded. Just a wild *** guess.

 

Here's what I did to fix similar problem.

1.) Build bypass pipe like in the picture below. It allow you to adjust everything with the engine running and the intercooler removed. It's just 1 inch PVC with 1 45 elbow and 1 90 elbow.

2.) Start car and warm up to normal temp.

3.) Install bypass pipe.

4.) Jump inital set connector

5.) Open BAC idle adjust screw all the way out (max idle speed).

6.) With the engine running adjust the throttle stop screw (loosen lock nut first...i'll post another pic below) to provide an idle of about 1100 RPM.

7.) Now turn the screw on the BAC IN until it lowers the idle speed to the desired level (750 spec. but I like mine at 900...keeps the lights from dimming, blower speed reducing etc. etc. at idle).

8.) Remove bypass pipe, reinstall intercooler, pull the wire out of the initial set connector.

I had a low idle that the BAC did not affect. My car idles perfectly smooth all the time now at 900 RPM.

You can also adjust the cold idle if it tends to die when it is not fully warmed up...the adjustment should be visible in one of the pics.

Hope it helps.

Todd

 

Here's the other pic. . Someone needs to tell me how to get these things to show up in my posts.

Todd

 

thats a good idea. just 2 questions.

step 3-- Installing the bypass pipe,
Do i take the intercooler off, install this pipe, and let it warm up? because step 2 was let the motor warm up. which do i do first? probably take the cooler off, install the piping, and let it warm up.

step 4-- Jump inital set connector,
which set connector is this? and i hate to sound like a moron, but how do i jump it?

id rather ask you guys questions and make my self look like a fool with rotarys, which im really not, then screw anything up, you know?

anyway, ill give this a try.

Mike

 

Have you gone to www.fc3s.org or perhaps iluvmyrx7.com and tried downloading the 88 factory manual? The 88 manual is close enough to your car. It has the turbo and the n/a. You won't have to ask where the initial set coupler is etc. I have a 87 fac manual and the 88 download and they are virtualy the same. The *glowing turbo* caught my eye and made me think that the timing might be retarded .

 

It does not matter. Warm the car up and then install the pipe or install the pipe and then warm it up. Just make the adjustments when the engine is at normal temp.

As for the initial set connector...it has two wires at a T to each other and a green connector. It's located near the drivers front fender (honestly I have never been able to tell that this does anything but it's supposed to!). You jump it with a piece of wire in each terminal connecting them to each other...it's supposed to let the ECU "learn" the idle setting.

Todd

 

Here is a pic. of the initial set connector. It's near the battery.

 

ill let you know how it went.

thanks alot for the help.

mike

 

Just checking to see if you got your problem fixed?

 

i havent tried yet, im in the middle of switching my rims back to stock turbo II wheels with Dunlop SP Sport 8000's. as soon as they are all on im gonna go for the idle.

tonight im actually going to home depot to get turbo inlet piping, while im there ill get the piping for the adjustment.

Mike

 

Hope that it does not cause any problems....that was 1.5 inch PVC not 1 inch as I said in my above post. You could use 1 inch but the 1.5 pipe and fittings happen to fit right into our intercooler piping. Sorry.

Todd

 

Ok, Im going to try this, but where do I put the 2 hoses that go into intercooler? Ill pick up the stuff to build the pipe.

 

Tony,

Both of my hoses are blocked off since I removed those valves a long time ago....You can just plug them until you reinstall the intercooler.

Todd