what the fuk is under my oil cap??!?!??!?
05-27-08, 09:17 PM
#1
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what the *** is under my oil cap??!?!??!?
dude wtf i have this crap under my oil cap and it looks like water and ***!!!(sorry for the verbal... im just stressed)... wat the heck is going on??!?!? . . . can some one tell me what can cause this too happen plz... thx
diah
diah
05-28-08, 09:13 AM
#8
Water + oil = mayonaise. Unless you have some kind of coolant seal leak, it means you aren't driving on long enough trips to boil off the water condensation in your oil. All API certified oil has anti-rust additives to handle water condensation, but these get expended faster when you have more water in your system. To make sure you always have enough anti-rust additives, you'll need to change your oil more often than recommended. Perhaps every 5,000 miles instead of 7,500 like the manual recommends. "What? I change it every 3000", you say? Yeah... exactly. You'll be fine b/c everyone in the U.S. is crazy about oil. Don't worry about it.
It may also help to take a long trip every weekend. Long enough for the engine to be fully warmed up for, I dunno, maybe 15-20 minutes.
EDIT: Oh yeah, if you don't drive much, make sure you're still changing your oil at least once every 5 months. Plus rust probably depends more on time than miles anyway.
It may also help to take a long trip every weekend. Long enough for the engine to be fully warmed up for, I dunno, maybe 15-20 minutes.
EDIT: Oh yeah, if you don't drive much, make sure you're still changing your oil at least once every 5 months. Plus rust probably depends more on time than miles anyway.
Last edited by ericgrau; 05-28-08 at 09:41 AM.
05-28-08, 12:50 PM
#10
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1) oil fill neck nipple to filtered air source
2) intermediate housing nipple to "T"
3) charcoal can line that runs across fire wall to "T"
4) vaccum source with oneway valve and PCV valve in line to last leg of "T" to pull the crud from the oil pan and fumes from the fuel tank.
No catch can needed. Part number from autoparts store for PCV is FRAM # 333.
2) intermediate housing nipple to "T"
3) charcoal can line that runs across fire wall to "T"
4) vaccum source with oneway valve and PCV valve in line to last leg of "T" to pull the crud from the oil pan and fumes from the fuel tank.
No catch can needed. Part number from autoparts store for PCV is FRAM # 333.
05-28-08, 01:34 PM
#11
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1) oil fill neck nipple to filtered air source
2) intermediate housing nipple to "T"
3) charcoal can line that runs across fire wall to "T"
4) vaccum source with oneway valve and PCV valve in line to last leg of "T" to pull the crud from the oil pan and fumes from the fuel tank.
No catch can needed. Part number from autoparts store for PCV is FRAM # 333.
2) intermediate housing nipple to "T"
3) charcoal can line that runs across fire wall to "T"
4) vaccum source with oneway valve and PCV valve in line to last leg of "T" to pull the crud from the oil pan and fumes from the fuel tank.
No catch can needed. Part number from autoparts store for PCV is FRAM # 333.
The engine vacuum is more likely to suck the air from outside through your new filter than from the rest of the system.
Screw the filter.
Plug the bottom fitting in the base of the oil filler neck.
Plumb a vacuum source to the top of the oil filler neck.
Done.
-Ted
05-28-08, 01:37 PM
#12
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That's a real stupid way of redoing the "PCV" system.
The engine vacuum is more likely to suck the air from outside through your new filter than from the rest of the system.
Screw the filter.
Plug the bottom fitting in the base of the oil filler neck.
Plumb a vacuum source to the top of the oil filler neck.
Done.
-Ted
The engine vacuum is more likely to suck the air from outside through your new filter than from the rest of the system.
Screw the filter.
Plug the bottom fitting in the base of the oil filler neck.
Plumb a vacuum source to the top of the oil filler neck.
Done.
-Ted
05-28-08, 01:48 PM
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05-28-08, 02:00 PM
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Funny how you like to call me names, but you have no clue how the whole thing works.
So who looks like the dumbass now?
I've very intimate on how everything works, cause I redesigned mines to mimic the stock system but simpler.
The "purge control valve" will take positive crankcase pressure (from the oil pan) and suck it in aft of the throttle plates.
BUT, if the engine is in boost, the purge control valve closes and prevents this from happening.
This is why there's a vacuum line that runs prior to the throttle plates.
This is the main system the works when you're not WOT.
I have taken apart one of those purge valve - have you?
It's just a simple pneumatic valve that closes downward when there is pressure from the top fitting.
Normally, "air" passes through the bottom two fittings until the diaphram closes.
Also notice...there is a "T" that connects the crankcase with the charcoal canister, so keep in mind that the engine is sucking fumes from both the oil system and the gas tank at the same time.
When at WOT, the emissions get rerouted to prior to the turbo.
At this point, the purge control valve is CLOSED.
There is NO VENT IN THE SYSTEM ANYWHERE UNLIKE YOUR STUPID SET-UP.
The whole system is CLOSED.
This is how an emissions system SHOULD BE.
Adding any kinda of vent to atmosphere defeats the whole fricken' purpose of this system.
If you're going to add a stupid filter to atmosphere, you might as well just unplug all the other emissions lines too...
Dumbass.
-Ted
So who looks like the dumbass now?
I've very intimate on how everything works, cause I redesigned mines to mimic the stock system but simpler.
The "purge control valve" will take positive crankcase pressure (from the oil pan) and suck it in aft of the throttle plates.
BUT, if the engine is in boost, the purge control valve closes and prevents this from happening.
This is why there's a vacuum line that runs prior to the throttle plates.
This is the main system the works when you're not WOT.
I have taken apart one of those purge valve - have you?
It's just a simple pneumatic valve that closes downward when there is pressure from the top fitting.
Normally, "air" passes through the bottom two fittings until the diaphram closes.
Also notice...there is a "T" that connects the crankcase with the charcoal canister, so keep in mind that the engine is sucking fumes from both the oil system and the gas tank at the same time.
When at WOT, the emissions get rerouted to prior to the turbo.
At this point, the purge control valve is CLOSED.
There is NO VENT IN THE SYSTEM ANYWHERE UNLIKE YOUR STUPID SET-UP.
The whole system is CLOSED.
This is how an emissions system SHOULD BE.
Adding any kinda of vent to atmosphere defeats the whole fricken' purpose of this system.
If you're going to add a stupid filter to atmosphere, you might as well just unplug all the other emissions lines too...
Dumbass.
-Ted
Last edited by RETed; 05-28-08 at 02:05 PM.
05-28-08, 02:03 PM
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You're talking about this diagram, right?
-Ted
05-28-08, 02:24 PM
#16
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Ted, you only post when given the opportunity to put someone down. I could care less what you think of my method. It works. My car has no emissions except the PCV and Charcoal can. The OP has an NA, no boost. Under vac, crap will be pulled from the charcoal can and oil pan and replaced with fresh air via the filtered source. Whats more dense the grime in the system or the hot air in the engine bay?
You like to call people names and there opinions stupid, your post was the first sign of immaturity in this thread. Go eat a Spam samich.
And as the picture shows, any condition other then wot air is flowing from the preturbo source.
You like to call people names and there opinions stupid, your post was the first sign of immaturity in this thread. Go eat a Spam samich.
And as the picture shows, any condition other then wot air is flowing from the preturbo source.
Last edited by Rotary?Cool; 05-28-08 at 02:30 PM.
05-28-08, 02:31 PM
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Ted, you only post when given the opportunity to put someone down. I could care less what you think of my method. It works. My car has no emissions except the PCV and Charcoal can. The OP has an NA, no boost. Under vac, crap will be pulled from the charcoal can and oil pan and replaced with fresh air via the filtered source. Whats more dense the grime in the system or the hot air in the engine bay?
You like to call people names and there opinions stupid, your post was the first sign of immaturity in this thread. Go eat a Spam samich.
You like to call people names and there opinions stupid, your post was the first sign of immaturity in this thread. Go eat a Spam samich.
Cause you're the bitch that started the name calling, and now you can't stomach it cause you can't argue worth a lick.
Kindergarten was back there.
You're still showing you have no clue what you're talking about.
Leave the technical **** to the experts.
Even NA, your intake track will hit "0" pressure.
"0" pressure is still 14.5psi absolute.
I never said your system DOESN'T work.
I said your way DOES NOT WORK THE SAME AS STOCK.
Get it @$%&) right you dumbass.
If you're going to acuse me of something, at least get that right.
Put your car in a C.A.R.B. automotive emissions certification testing facility, and it's going to FAIL.
How does one of these thing work?
They seal your car in a hermetically sealed room and measure any vapors emitted from the vehicle.
Whoa, guess what...you **** is venting crap to atmosphere.
FAIL.
-Ted
05-28-08, 02:59 PM
#18
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I did not call you any names, merely an immature pun created from your screen name. I was trying to stoop to your level.
I won’t debate with you because we speak different languages (low lives argue). You say," That's a real stupid way of redoing the "PCV" system". I'm supposed to somehow translate that to, "DOES NOT WORK THE SAME AS STOCK".
I'll say that I'm not a kid on this site who laughs at you treating other members with lack of respect. Your attitude is the worst, you are an internet thug. Look what this thread has become because of your lack of civility. Maybe I can teach you some 7th grade English. Instead of “that’s stupid” try “I find this works better”. You degrade yourself. You have an elitist attitude. Go look in the mirror, I guarantee you there’s people out there with way more knowledge than you.
Done.
I won’t debate with you because we speak different languages (low lives argue). You say," That's a real stupid way of redoing the "PCV" system". I'm supposed to somehow translate that to, "DOES NOT WORK THE SAME AS STOCK".
I'll say that I'm not a kid on this site who laughs at you treating other members with lack of respect. Your attitude is the worst, you are an internet thug. Look what this thread has become because of your lack of civility. Maybe I can teach you some 7th grade English. Instead of “that’s stupid” try “I find this works better”. You degrade yourself. You have an elitist attitude. Go look in the mirror, I guarantee you there’s people out there with way more knowledge than you.
Done.
05-28-08, 03:23 PM
#19
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That is why I made the point about...
If you're going to vent something, why not just pull all the hoses and let it all vent to atmosphere?
Why bother reconnecting hoses in the first place?
You really should STFU.
-Ted
If you're going to vent something, why not just pull all the hoses and let it all vent to atmosphere?
Why bother reconnecting hoses in the first place?
You really should STFU.
-Ted
