So I'm aware of the preferred way to wire the Taurus 2 speed fan, with the Volvo 2 speed relay $50, 2 position thermo-switch $30?.

Only thing I don't like about that way is the thermo-switch having that weird 20x1.5 thread, and that high speed kicks on at 210* well past the point of worry for me personally.


I was thinking of wiring the low speed to a regular old (185* on - 170* off) single speed thermo-switch ($30 with harness/relay) Also comes with a more common 3/8th NPT sensor which I can buy a regular old ebay radiator hose adapter for(~$20)

Then I would wire the high speed to a switch on my switch panel, and flick it on when I feel like it. Which I would probably do if I caught the temps around 200-ish.



Now my question is, would wiring the high speed to a switch interfere with the low speed which would already be on? I'm wondering if it would over power the fan motor since the low speed would already be feeding it power, or if that is how it's supposed to work?

 

starion thermoswitch threads right in, one relay needed, wire to high speed. done

 

So I should just skip the low speed entirely?

 

i did, high speed moves an ungodly amount of air. just felt it unnecessary to run both speeds/need the extra wiring/relay.

 

That's the way it normally works, so a switch on HI will be fine.

I wouldn't skip LO and go directly to HI because the inrush voltage would be higher.

I don't think my HI speed-triggered at 210°- has ever come on.

 

If you use a 185*/170* switch, the fan will never shut off once the coolant warms up. So try this: wire low speed to the N/C side or a spdt relay. Wire high speed to the N/O side if the relay. Switch the relay with a 200-* switch.

Now your low speed runs all the time and high speed is switched on if needed.

Done

 

Why the hell would you do that?
It obviates the efan's biggest advantage over the OEM...more precise control.

If you just want a fan that runs all the time, leave the OEM thermoclutch in.

 

He states he is aware of the preferred way to wire the fan. To me that means he has dismissed the prefferred way. His 185/170 switch will run the fan all the time anyway, if he in fact has a stock tempererature thermostat in the coolant system.

This method I presented simply eliminates the high switch on the dash.

 

Ah, I see your point and why you said that.

After a reread of the original post, I think the salient point is beach is fixated on the idea that 180° is somehow an "ideal" temp that should be constantly maintained.
I'm not sure how you reconcile this with the way the thermostat actually works, but there you go.