Ive take off my UIM, IC, Intake, Turbo, Alternator and BAC, ACV etc.

I am porting my wastegate and getting rid of the emissions on my car...

I want to run a strait as possible custom intake pipe and run my AFM and HKS intake on the end of it... but the question is, do i need these two vacuum lines if i am getting rid of emissions.

-Ben

 

Anybody??? I need some rotary guru help here.

-Ben

 

the blue tube goes to the rats nest and can be removed and the red tube goes to the boost solenoid valve which can also be removed if you have anymore emmission removal questions try rotaryresurrection.com the tech section there has the best emissions removal guide ive seen

 

I don't have a series five turbo car........but you might double check that comment about the RED tube. It ain't a going to no boost solenoid. Ain't no boost pressure in that duct. Sorry 'bout that.

THe Blue tube with the check valve, is for exaust gasses. They get dumped in the turbo inlet duct at a given time, when that gas isn't being routed to the throttle body. Part of the PURGE system. See local FSM for routing.

I'm lazy, but I'm GUESSING that the other line (RED) is feeding fresh air to the fuel injector bleeds or something similar. I could look in the series five FSM, Fuel Section..........but I'm lazy and have no dog in this hunt.

 

If you still have the stock bypass valve it could be one of those lines.

 

You win!. It goes to the Air Bypass Valve as shown the series five FSM on page F2-6. The RED hose. Neither is vacuum.

 

Hmm, ya they both apeare to be associated with the oil filler neck,

The blue on goes to the grey selenoid valve, then to the vaccuum rack

the red one apears to be strictly hooked to the oil filler neck.. or below it to something else, hard to tell.

 

the red tube and the one on the turbo go to the duty solenoid valve aka the boost solenoid valve located right on the side of the filler neck if you have a haynes manual theres a vacuum diagram for the s5 on pg 164 just incase someone thinks im lying to you again

 

Hmm, well regardless, thanks for the input... I just want to get rid of these two hoses if i can.. clean things up a bit.

Cheers

Ben

 

Yes. I was wrong. Here are two jpg that came out of the FSM that is free and online.

Blue is for purging gasses in the crankcase and the Red does go to the boost solenoid. I mistook it for the one that goes to the air bypass valve (shown in yellow).

The Red is most likely for venting the solenoid air back to the intake duct as the boost solenoid operates.

If you don't want the Blue one, then do a search for *Catch Can*.

 

from what i understand, and given that i havnt read anything from your thread... exept your question... those are not used if you are removing emmissions... i beleive one goes to the duty solenoid to control the boost, and the other goes to a splitter which is also connected to the charcoal canister... lemme know if u have any question.

 

Hmm, good info above there. Thanks! I am taking my vacuum rack as we speak... so ill take a close look at were it goes.

Cheers,

Ben

 

if i have a custom intake, what do i do with the red one, reconnect it some how?

And if i didnt would that casue me to not have power around 4000 rpm, and not boost correctly.

 

The one with the checkvalve is just letting fumes in the crankcase go into the inlet to burn up. It's just to reduce emissions from the crankcases. It plays no part in the actually running of the engine. People put these lines in a *Catch Can* so it won't dribble all over the engine bay if the line isn't routed to the inlet duct.

The one to the boost solenoid is just air that has been bleed off from the wastegate actuator in order to control the amount of boost. Seems to me that since it's already been measured by the afm, then it should go back into the inlet somewhere after the afm. LIke where it is right now.

I don't see how it could cause a loss of power at 4000 rpm or cause the engine to not boost correctly since it's just bleed off air from the boost solenoid. I mean there's nothing special about the air in the inlet duct other than it's been *seen* by the afm.

I'm just writing *out loud*. I don't have a series five. Maybe someone who's done this on a series five turbo can pipe in. At least your back to the top on the threads.

 

if your running series five, and plan on going strait pipe, u can remove that duty solenoid. im told that its only there to help you acheive a 7psi boost at stock, and with the strait pipe, u should gain approx 10 psi boost, which then the duty solenoid is not needed... google rotoryressurection, they have an article about emissions removal, and what u can keep and what dont need... i would suggest getting an aftermarket boost controller, im doin that because im missing a little peice inside the line to the actuator so im not getting the correct boost...

 

I'm also wondering about this.

so since I went with a new TID can I cap off the Air bypass valve? (Yellow hose in diagram 1 of post #10) at the BAC end? Not the vaccuum line that goes to the Pressure sensor and BOV (light blue below) but the HOSE below the BAC?



Using the diagram above:

It looks like you can eliminate the line that goes from the oil filler neck to the TID ( the red line in the FIRST POST) but the second line (blue one) IS NOT the Air Bypass Valve line and I can't find it in any of my diagrams so I can't tell if I can cap it off or not.

I'll post the pics ASAP so I can get this cleared up right away.

 

so the two hoses in the original post are these:





The one on the right (looks like it has a "+" sign on the hose) goes to this thing behind the CAS: I don't know what it is and I haven't taken a look in the FSM yet.



Another shot:


The one on the left goes to this thing (again I haven't looked at the FSM yet so I don't know what they are off the top of my head):




So, I think the one on the left is the Charcoal canister line that comes from the oil filler neck to the TID. But I don't know what the hose on the right is for. Any ideas??

 

blue one in FIRST post does (under vacuum conditions) pull the air from oil filler tube, helping the oil pan venting (which is important, if you dont want to have oil blow-by in the turbo
- this one COULD be vented into the air, some oil might come off it (under conditions where u get oil slosh up to top of oil filler neck...), and having it connected, or disconnected, would not affect idle or driveability. However, blocking it off, could lead into improper oil pan venting -> oil blow by > smoking

red one in FIRST post is connected to stock boost solenoid and when solenoid bleeds boost, this line returns the bleeded air back before turbo (but after AFM, since it was metered already)

- this one could be as well vented to air, it will richer your mixtures (AFM counted the air and adds fuel, but air will leave if you let it disconnected.....blocking it off would prevent boost solenoid from working properly

 

thank you very much Higgi. Looks like I'm just going to leave them unhooked but make sure they are out of the way.

 

I know this post is sorta old, but I have a related question. I have the nipple on the oil filler neck pretty much venting to atmosphere. Should I try an obtain a PCV and hook all this up correctly? I had a full emissions removal on my engine, so this was taken off as well or at least not returned with the engine. I dunno. I know my turbo has a pretty bad oil leak, I just need to know if I need to properly hook up the PCV and whatnot.