What Cured Your hot start?
05-19-06, 07:35 PM
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What Cured Your hot start?
What cured your hot starting problem?
I'll go by what other people did! maybe it wont fix mine but its worth a try.
Evan
I'll go by what other people did! maybe it wont fix mine but its worth a try.
Evan
05-19-06, 11:06 PM
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Thre's a thread here about that and if I can remember someone mentioned about poking some pin in the ecu.. hmmmm
or a fuelcutswitch. i dont know if that's what you're referring to.
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05-20-06, 02:02 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by bigdv519
Pure curiosity here ok...
How did an E8 fix a hotstart problem? What were the symtoms of your problem?
How did an E8 fix a hotstart problem? What were the symtoms of your problem?
I was running a Field SFC-HyperR.
Even with the fuel controller, the stock ECU could not compensate for the initial cranking fuel.
Although the engine fired fine when cold (compression is higher), when the engine was fully hot, it would guarantee flood.
I do mentioned "stock ECU", but it's a G-Force reprogrammed ECU.
I do have a fuel pump cut-out switch to clear out the floods.
The E8 cranking fuel map is almost perfect.
It will fire under almost any condition except for "really cold" down here (at or below 60F).
It settles to a perfect 900RPM idle afterwards.
That's the beauty of a stand-alone EMS.
-Ted
05-20-06, 10:02 AM
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I cut pin 3B a couple of inches from the plug on the ECU and ran it to a simple voltage switch I bought from this site: http://www1.jaycar.com.au/error.asp?...e+try+again%2E (type VOLTAGE SWITCH in the search line on that site).
The wire from 3B passes thru that switch and only *makes* the circuit if the temperature is under 150 degrees F. The switch is triggered by the signal from the Water Thermo Sensor. The setting for the trigger temp is made with the Jaycar switch. You can set it from anywhere from 30 degrees to 212 plus. You WANT to set it around 150 to 160 degrees so that the engine will start normally during COLD/cool starts.
It helps to know just what is happening during a START. LOOK at the jpg of the START cycle i.e. graph and words. REad them.
The AFM is NOT involved in a START. The ECU has a preprogrammed START INJECTOR DUTY CYCLE dependent on water thermo temperature/crank speed/ and the ECU seeing the START signal.
IF the ECU never sees the START signal, then it doen NOT use the pre programmed START DUTY CYCLE. It now uses the AFM and whatever else signal.
The duty cycle of the injectors is cut WAAAAAAAY DOWN from what the ECU start duty cycle would be.
Therefore no flooding on hot starts, because, if you followed the above..........it's now using the afm signal and not the pre programmed start duty cycle.
There's also two jpg of a PALM from a RTEK2.0 showing the duty cycle with 3B connected during a start and the other of the 3B disconnected. Look at the duty cycle in both views. See the smaller injector duty cycle? See the large duty cycle? See Jane run, Run Jane run humor, couldn't help myself.
The wire from 3B passes thru that switch and only *makes* the circuit if the temperature is under 150 degrees F. The switch is triggered by the signal from the Water Thermo Sensor. The setting for the trigger temp is made with the Jaycar switch. You can set it from anywhere from 30 degrees to 212 plus. You WANT to set it around 150 to 160 degrees so that the engine will start normally during COLD/cool starts.
It helps to know just what is happening during a START. LOOK at the jpg of the START cycle i.e. graph and words. REad them.
The AFM is NOT involved in a START. The ECU has a preprogrammed START INJECTOR DUTY CYCLE dependent on water thermo temperature/crank speed/ and the ECU seeing the START signal.
IF the ECU never sees the START signal, then it doen NOT use the pre programmed START DUTY CYCLE. It now uses the AFM and whatever else signal.
The duty cycle of the injectors is cut WAAAAAAAY DOWN from what the ECU start duty cycle would be.
Therefore no flooding on hot starts, because, if you followed the above..........it's now using the afm signal and not the pre programmed start duty cycle.
There's also two jpg of a PALM from a RTEK2.0 showing the duty cycle with 3B connected during a start and the other of the 3B disconnected. Look at the duty cycle in both views. See the smaller injector duty cycle? See the large duty cycle? See Jane run, Run Jane run humor, couldn't help myself.
05-20-06, 10:09 AM
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Then again, a fuel cut switch (manual operation unlike the above device) will do the job. Do a SEARCH on this site. Put in FUEL CUT SWITCH and for a name put in NZCONVERTIBLE. On the theads he answered he shows which wires to splice the switch to.
I used to have one of those OLD STYLE, MANUAL fuel cut switches. I have not used it since I installed the Jaycar voltage switch as described in the other post.
I'll never ever describe this Jaycar method again. Too much trouble.
I used to have one of those OLD STYLE, MANUAL fuel cut switches. I have not used it since I installed the Jaycar voltage switch as described in the other post.
I'll never ever describe this Jaycar method again. Too much trouble.
05-20-06, 10:57 AM
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Yeah i'm going to do a full tune up soon too! thanks alot man! and i found a micrto tech on the net for like 800 so maybe i can get my hands on that too
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