KidA

iTrader: (1)

ideas?

Sleepless in Seattle

according to Aaron Cakes site, Just changing the air flow (filter, exhaust system). But if its turbo you have to change the fuel pump...

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Reduce weight, Increase air while NOT letting it get warm air, less restrictive exhaust system, full tune up if not done so already. 2 rotor N/A's have their limits if its going to be a daily driver.....

Sleepless in Seattle

Limits? power wise or just drivability?

Fleemer

Exhaust header,

Seriously best upgrade i ever did to my n/a FC.

I had a RB true dual, insane power gains over stock exhaust. (i did full exhaust on my car, i was really surprised. Very noticeable gains !)

Zeile

iTrader: (2)

street port! pineapple aux port sleaves!

rotary#10

iTrader: (38)

go forth and search for " beefy n/a" thread
Ya and those mods too. Dont forget HKS twin ign, JacobFC1000 ign, MSD coils and safc's, rteks, megasquirt, etc.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

suspension =)
speed kills

rotary#10

iTrader: (38)

LOL lower car + better feeling of car + drivers over confidence + speed = KO
LOL but still a very note worthy mod.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Tow it with a Ferrari.


-Jack

jjwalker

Street port, plain and simple....and gut the exhaust port diffusers.

Of course that requires an engine rebuild but that comes either now or later.

Chris at RP told me their street port on NA's typically put HP numbers on par with stock turbo motors on the dyno with some supporting mods (exhaust...well everything that has been listed already).

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

Turbo swap, seriously.

For the money you can spend messing with an NA car you might as well spend 2k or so on a 13bt swap.

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

Header
Custom header-back exhaust
Rtek / Microtech / Haltech / MoTeC and a wideband controller plus dyno time

That's the easy stuff. After that you're looking at tearing into the motor, changing the irons to the 4-port parts and street porting, running the turbo manifolds, more tuning, etc.

John

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

you can probably get 180 wheel hp out of it or even 200 without even cracking open the block. the problem is, you have to custom make an intake manifold and the same for the exhaust. then you need to tune the intake and exhaust so that you get that maxemum power.

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

-Suspension + Driver mod.
-Functional auxiliary ports (and VDI, if applicable).

Fleemer

Seriously, for the price of all the above mods, the only one I still recommend for an n/a is a full exhaust. Stock intake is pretty good since it has that 'cold air' thing

Once you start getting into other stuff like rebuilds etc, you might as well just do a turbo swap and never look back. Everything else is just trying to squeeze what little can be from an n/a car for the same price of getting a stock tii swap in there :P

If I still had an n/a, i would just do exhaust and intake, then focus on suspension like coilovers and bushings and thrash the crap out of the car without worrying about running lean~~~

Just keep up on the 2 main maintenance things

1. Coolant/cooling
2. Oil.

I would also recommend running a little bit of premix regardless of whether or not your OMP is still working.

Nothing like the smell of rotang first in the morning~~~

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzslIbtW8w4

^ i wish now that i never sold it. As much fun as my tii is, i care too much about it. I don't have the heat to drive it like it should be :P

-Crash-

This is not a good place to ask for ideas for an N/A rx7 most people say it’s not worth it and to just go turbo (which is not a bad idea, rotary's love boost!), I personally will be building a N/A track car out of mine.

Here is my list to give you some ideas if you want to build a streetable n/a:

Engine:
Fresh rebuilt 6 port engine, street ported, balanced (10k rpm balance, Rtek lets you go to 9.2k rpm so I will have a .8k buffer to keep me safe)
Pineapple racing 6 port sleeves
Port match intake manifold
Racing beat header
Bonez hi-flow cat
Corksport cat back
New intake plumbing (I have a homemade CAI but will be making a better one)
Rtek 2.1 (I should be able to tune the IDA's with this but I im not 100% on that I can yet, need to do more reasearch)
EFI Hardware IDA throttle bodies (from tweakit, there are others out there, FUJI is one)
IDA Weber Manifold - 13B 6-port (allows the IDA's to bolt up)
Corksport power series radiator
Corksport radiator shroud
Silicon vacuum hose (to replace all the old ****)
FC-1000 ignition amplifier
Mazdatrix spark plug wires
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
SX fuel pressure regulator
Top feed 550cc injectors
Top feed 720cc injectors
Himni SS front cover nut and bolt kit (stainless steel bolts, not really for performance more for OCD lol)
Himni SS oil pan nut and bolt kit
Himni SS pulley & alternator nut and bolt kit
Himni SS throttle body & elbow nut and bolt kit
Himni SS water pump & housing nut and bolt kit
Himni copper clad exhaust nut kit
Copper exhaust manifold gasket (from SCE Pro)


Suspension:
Tanabe GF210 springs
Tokico Illumina shocks
Tanabe strut bars F/R
Tanabe anti-sway bars F/R
Tanabe front under brace
MMR complete suspension bushing set (DTSS, F/R control arm)

Drivetrain:
Mazdaspeed motor mounts
Mazdaspeed transmission mounts
Mazdaspeed differential mounts
Corksport SS braided clutch line
Bonez light weight flywheel
ACT street performance clutch kit
Rx7store.net 4:33 ring and pinion gears
Bonez short shifter

This list is not yet finished so please don't go hating my setup, Redline time attack makes changes to their rules every season and my car most likely will not be done for a while so I’ve left things out on purpose.

Also the reason I am using the Rtek is that i'll pass inspection in the class I want to enter, for the class you can tune your stock ECU but there can not be any external ports on it (the Rtek hides theres under the lid! yey for me lol)

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i'm pretty happy with mine right now, i chose the cheap and methodical approach.

step 1, measure exhaust backpressure, reduced it from 4.5@redline to 3.5@redline. the rotary engine book say this is about 8hp worth, and butt dyno agrees. hollowed out plugged pre cat, cost $0

step 2. verify everything is working, 6 ports, tps, plugs and wires, etc etc. replaced plugs, wires, tstat (yes it is a performance item), fuel filter. cost $50?

step 3. mess with timing, mine is an S4, it likes about 3-4 degrees advance, power at the peak stayed the same, but i feel like its up about 10hp in the 2000-3500 range and 6500-7800 range, in other words, powerband got wider and flatter. cost $0

step 4, install and tune Safc, s4 didnt need it, its already running high 12's @wot, it does have blinking lights, so its cool. cost $80 used

step 5, 205/50/15's short tires, its like going from 4.10 to 4.4's

so i've spent $130 and i'm up 10hp, with a big flat powerband, AND short gears, car works very well.

keep in mind this is full interior car, with working AC, and PS and its smog legal and quiet too

Spirit-RE

iTrader: (25)

Turbo N/A

NI_Racing

iTrader: (4)

KidA the best thing you can do is come out to our Rotary meets. Ill text you and let you know when and where as we have had a few scheduling conflicts. I have an extra charge pipe (turbo compression pipe) that we can use in building you a custom intake pipe, and have a die grinder to open up the hole under your passenger headlight. Run the piping from the intake (which we can port match) to your sensor, run the rest of the piping from the sensor thu the whole down to a relocated cone filter (K&N) just above your inlet in the front bumper. Can even build you a shield to keep alot of crap outta the filter. Also, i should be N/A-T here in a few weeks (fingers crossed) in which case your more than welcome to the RB collected exhaust thats on the car now (the one you listened to at the meet). That alone should get you off to a good start, along with the tune up. 5th and 6th port sleeves if you want em. Electronic port actuator (no pick up on this RB setup), LIGHT FLYWHEEL, lighten up the car a lil. Maybe port the throttle body and remove secondary butterfly and throttle rod if youd like. clean fuel injectors (20 a piece). That and putting the car on a diet... anything you dont use/want/need can go. My power steering and ac are gone. Air pumps going next (using it for port activation). all the crap in the car. Under carpet padding if you dont mind a lil noise. Just keep in mind that every HUNDRED pounds is only ruffly equal to 1 TENTH of a second...


Edit: forgot a few things. If you install the SAFC (which i did) it will help you once you start ugrading other things. 255lph pump. 550cc S4T2 injectors, fuel pressure reg. There are also sick NGK race plugs (120 a set). Adjusting the timing will work to a degree. Instead of adjusting a set amount of marks or degrees tho, you should get with someone who has been doing timing advances for a while and has a good ear (dyno). Each engine is different and will want a different set timing to optimize the performance. I also aggree very much with measuring the exhaust back pressure. You need to keep a lil for low end torque, but less restrictive = more power (to an extent). I also forgot to mention that i have a very nicely built cat delete pipe that will replace the cats (all 3) on your stock exhaust. It bolts right up, gives the car more performance than gutting the cats did (i did that 1st) and it gives the car a kick *** airplane sound under hard acceleration. Still very quiet from the street tho. Its in brandon if you want it. Just lemme know, we'll hook you up.

MillenniumFalcon

Ghetto bookmark....sort of.

What would a decently aggressive street port (I've got a mild port right now), full exhaust (header and all) net?

Is a custom intake worth it, or is there just as much performance available through the standard intake with a higher flowing filter?

I'm eventually going to go f/i, but I'm going to stay n/a through the summer, and use the winter to do some major work. I just need to decide if I want to supercharge or turbocharge. I'm not looking for mega gains, 250-300 whp would be perfect.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if you do a little searching kahren did a street port with a stock intake and a stock port with a custom intake.

the street port eventually did like 196, the stock port did about 190. so the stock intake is on the restrictive side

MillenniumFalcon

Sweet, thanks!

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

The above is right on from a cost benefit standpoint. Focus on getting to your best operational baseline first before you even think about going more esoteric like street porting, etc.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
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Might I also add a few high benefit to cost considerations:<o:p></o:p>
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1. Dealing with exhaust;<o:p></o:p>
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Racing Beat downpipe and presilencer. Keep your old dp/cats so you can smog your car every 2 years without paying the huge "gratuity" as otherwise would be needed.<o:p></o:p>

Even Racing Beat admits that gains by adding a header vs. staying with the stock exhaust manifold is marginal at best and at the same time headers result in a much higher noise factor. <o:p></o:p>

Performance wise, no difference between stock Y-pipe and Racing Beat Y-pipe. But you might think about going RB cans if your stockers ever take a crap.<o:p></o:p>
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2. Drop in K&N air filter to further help the engine breath more efficiently. Cone filters are better breathing, but unless you fab a partition (aka cold air box), you'll actually loose performance as you'll be sucking up hot air (exhaust gas gets up to 1400 degrees) rather than better performance cold air. In truth, the drop in K&N does a pretty darn good job all things considered.<o:p></o:p>
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3. Lightened steel flywheel (my choice) if daily driver so more of your horses get past it to your wheels. More cost efficient and dd civilized than aluminum. However if primarily tracking, consider going aluminum anyway.<o:p></o:p>
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4. You might also consider getting a LSD out of a S4 GXL. I'd strongly suggest you have the clutches redone before installing considering it is 22+ years old by now.<o:p></o:p>
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5. I also agree that suspension upgrades (I'm a fan of the RB springs and sway bars for DDing) and replacing worn out 22+ year old bushings with Energy Suspension or the like to get a very noticeable handling improvement. Relatively inexpensive and for the most part very much a do it yourself thing with the right loaner tools.<o:p></o:p>
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And, as indicated above, I was very surprised what a difference the SAFC made to seat of the pants performance. A SAFCII if you have a S5, otherwise SAFC is fine.
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After the above, unless you’re going track only, anything else would provide only marginal improvement in my experience. Street porting in a stock EFI set up doesn't really increase hp that much considering the time and expense. But what it does do is simply shift the hp curve to where many enthusiasts feel better located. And if you get to the point of considering steet porting, then you should also consider the ever popular TII swap done the RIGHT way with no short cuts.<o:p></o:p>

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Lots of opinions here, so here is mine...

The best upgrade for a 2nd gen is:

Stand alone ECU

A progrmable ECU opens the door for you, so that you can do whatever mod you wish in the future. Want to go turbo, or NA full bridge, or maybe go with a 4 port engine, covered on all counts.

This is how a NA should be build:
https://www.rx7club.com/naturally-aspirated-performance-forum-220/make-230rwhp-streetport-13bre-n-818133/

Even if you stay OEM, you can still gain some HP out of it