I am pulling an engine for my senior project (well this is part of it)
Its $200 if the junkyard pulls it and $50 if we do it ourselves.
So this is only a senior project, and not for a working car or anything.
I'm making it into a lighted see through display like Mazda had in the 70's (It'll be just like your beautiful display Max7 ha ha)
I'm gonna clean it up, give it a light repainting and touch up, make the plexiglass pieces and do my voodoo that I do w/ lighting. And then see if I can find a motor to turn the eccentric shaft. etc etc

So what all will I need to pull the engine?!?!?
A-Frame engine puller I'm guessing...
What kinda wrenches and sizes and everything else will I need?!

Thanks to all who can help out. I'll make a How-To w/ pictures when I get this done. So it's not just for me.


And yes I know this isn't exactly FC material, but I feel most comfortable in this section of the forum and think I would get plenty of help.

Thanks to all,
Ben


P.S. My e-mail is down along w/ my FTP on account of @home, so PM me if you need to get in touch privately.

 

Thanks a whole bunch

There are 2 motor mounts on the lower sides if my memory serves correct (from drooling over motor swaps)

And what about the tranny, I guess just a bunch of bolts around the round end part (bell housing??)

and exhaust and intake just have nuts and bolts, hose I can cut off if necessary but most come off with pliers w/ the metal fasteners....

What about rust, any good way to combat rust?

 

dont forget something to move the engine around once the engine is out...you could put a piece of wood on two skateboards. i have a perfect old michaelangelo ninja turtles one from toys r us when i was little. it has ABS under the front and rear so you cannot rough up your board when you're doing your badass moves. i think it probably has rust on the axles though, and the bearings might be a little worn. maybe we can rebuild it with junkyard T2 parts?

 

Good project Ben. Be sure you some Liquid Wrench or WD 40 for the exhaust bolts, although you'll probably just undo the manifold and leave everything in the car. And spray it on the day before if you can. It'll be easier that way. You'll need a 23 mm for the oil cooler lines. Have fun.

 

are you pulling out an FC motor?
if so unhook wiring harness from through firewall and then you can take the whole thing out at once instead of taking intakes out separately.

 

I used a socket wrench, three old fanbelts and a 1953 Farmall. Several times.

Considering the weight, you could have three frinds pull it.

 

Please note: The bolt/nut sizes given are for the heads, not the threads.

I highly recommend you drain all fluids, including tranny. Gear oil does not wash out of hair easily.

Battery, battery tray (four 10mm bolts, which will usually break off unless thoroughly doused with penetrating oil), fan/clutch (four 10mm nuts) and shroud (one 10mm at top of each side, one push-plug at bottom of each side, 10mm below intake duct, and possibly one push-plug at the bottom) are no-brainers.

Engine is FAR easier to remove if you unbolt the intake (mostly 12mm nuts/bolts) first and remove all the wires. Of course, if you're in a hurry, you could just cut all the wires, but why not do it the right way so someone else (possibly you) can use them later?

Disconnect exhaust system at the joint between manifold and cat inlet pipe. PB Blaster is BY FAR the best penetrating spray oil I have ever used. Top choice of NHRA mechanics (j/k). Also, remember to disconnect the air pump line, and, if 86-88, the 6-port actuator line. Remove hangers via the two-per 12mm bolts (those rubber deals are a bitch to get off otherwise), except for rear. Just cut those and save yourself a headache, unless they're almost brand new. Whole system removes easily from there in one piece. Heat shields, which have to be removed to get to the tranny ans driveshaft, are held in with 10mm bolts, I think about ten of them.

The engine cannot be removed with the tranny in place. Removing the intake also makes getting to the three upper bellhousing bolts (14mm, I think) a cinch One of these, the one holding the engine hoist bracket, has a nut on the back side, but is still threaded into the engine's rear housing. Bottom of the bell housing has two bolts (same size as upper), one you can see, and one for which you have to remove the starter (two 14mm, plus electrical connections). Disconnect the driveshaft at the rear first (four 10mm nuts), then push forward, then pull rearward and out.

 

After removing intake and tranny, reinstall rear engine hoist bracket, if possible (86-88 NT only, I think, 89-up has it on the intake, so can't use easily).

I used a Crescent wrench and a 7/8" (I think, maybe 13/16") to remove the front oil cooler line. Rear is removed with the combo wrench, or a socket if you can fit it. Might want to take those cooler lines, and possibly the cooler, with you, as they are getting harder to find, and very expensive. The lines bolt to the cooler with a 29mm aka 1-3/16" bolt (lower is spring-loaded, be careful, you need all those parts). Cooler is held in with 8 (I think) 10mm nuts, with studs on rubber pads that are notorious for breaking.

Cut fuel lines, they are usually practically welded in place.

Power steering pump will be a messy, but necessary, removal, unless car doesn't have it.

A/C compressor CAN be removed without disconnecting lines, which will leave one more useable compressor, condenser, evaporator, etc for the next guy. Alternately, if it's your car you have to replace the engine on, you won't have to get it recharged, saving big $$$ if you still use R-12 (I do , it works better than R-134A, and it's not flammable). Just loosen all four (10mm) mounting bolts and remove the top two. The bottom two bolts will be removable as the engine is lifted, and then you can move the compressor out of the way.

I don't remember if it is indeed necessary, but I seem to recall always removing the bracket that the PS pump and A/C compressor mount to. Two 12mm, one 14mm, and one 17mm, as I recall.

There are nuts on the tops and bottoms of both motor mounts. You can get by with removing just the
bottom ones, but it is easier to get the engine out of the vehicle if you remove all four.

Please do those who follow you a favor and destroy as little as possible. There are few enough of these cars left in the world, and others need parts, too.

Ren

 

That's a damn good idea, I never thought of that in the many times I've swapped FC engines. Then again, I've always used the wiring that's in the recipient car.

Guess there's always a better way...

By the way, if anyone needs tips for this operation not covered already, feel free to e-mail me off-list. I've done this more times than I care to recall, but I'm always willing to help when I can.

Ren
turboren@yahoo.com

 

How you going to get the rotors to spin like my display? I've been wanting to build a new one, just haven't figured that part out yet.

 

I'm gonna have to make a boxish section on the rear end to house the motor, which will be mounted. Then I'll just grab some junk motors possibly for clocks from arts and craft stores, dont worry, ill do up a how-to so everyone can make em, i wanna put a blacklight in so the rotors glow but we'll see what happens ;-)

And thanks alot guys, expecially you turboren :-D hopefully ill get this bad boy out in the next week or two, who knows

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by turboren

The engine cannot be removed with the tranny in place.

i just took out my 87 motor and replaced it with a 90 motor, i did not remove the tranny......made things a little harder when putting in the new motor but you won't have to be doing that...


what i did do was to remove the intake + TB to allow me access to the bolts on the top of the tranny. don't know if this was needed but i had to take it off for other reasons, seemed to make things a bit easyer, other wise get a 14 mm socket a swivel and a extension. couple of the bolts were tight so i used a 1/2 drive extension and socket (somthing big like 23mm) an slid it over the ratchet for some more leverage....worked great

hope this helps

i have replaced my tranny 3 times and i hate un hooking all that. especially if it was not absolutly nessary...


mods
87 base model (199k mi on it)
90 motor (600 mi on it put in at 199k)
K&N intake
TB mod
no cat's
downpipe
presilencer
Jacobs Pro ign pak
5 lug conversion
convertable rims
blue silocone vac hose
rpm controled 5n6 ports and VDI
oil presshure gauge...figures the stock one died the same time i put my motor in....what no oil presshure??? ...nope just the gauge....

 

Hmm, ok. I guess it can be done. The problem I found in trying to do that is that the tranny wants to sag, thus pulling down on the engine. I also usually have a really hard time getting the two separated most of the time, even with the tranny hanging free. How did you get the engine to come up past the motor mounts? And how did you get them to separate?

While it may be possible, it seems to be way too much trouble. I would think the extra 30-45 minutes removing the preliminary stuff and tranny would far outweigh the time and frustration of trying to remove and especially replace the engine with the tranny in place. I even pulled one with the tranny still attached (bad idea, car needs to be WAY up in the air to do this). Whatever works, though.

I forgot to mention that if you're going to be swapping engines in your own vehicle, be sure to place a piece of plywood over the radiator fins/tubes to prevent them from getting messed up or possibly broken. 45 minutes straightening fins with a small screwdriver is not fun.

Ren

 

i just pulled my motor, but its going back in my car so i had to label every single line.... man, thats a head ache. i know i missed a few too, but i should be able to get them to their homes. its not too tough, just time consuming...

 

LOL. The mohawk trimming is the most crucial part of the excercise.

 

DUDE! I had that SAME board!

 

when I did my old 86 GX I just put a block of wood under the tranny to prevent it from sagging. It came apart really easily and so did the parts car

P.S.
I didn't label anything, the hoses only go to one spot and the electrical connectors are all different except the injectors. It is a one man job, I did the whole thing with no help.

 

how long did it take you and what tools did you have?