WAYNE88N/A

I've noticed also that sometimes the timing marks will just "disappear" on you, I fix it by just disconnecting the power source for the timing light (or the pickup clamp), and reconnecting it, the mark shows up again every time...I drove mine 100 miles with it perhaps 5 deg. off right after the rebuild, 'cause it seemed to idle better there, but with subsequent 100 mile trips to work & back, I've slowly tweaked it back to where it was before the rebuild, I don't THINK it hurt anything...

Fitness Stain

hmmm ...

wayne thanks for your responses .. your one of the only ones that pay attention to my helpless threads

WAYNE88N/A

got nothing better to do, sitting here at work waiting for the airplanes to come in...

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Well You mentioned your trailing isn't firing then that can be a cause for the crappy idle and gas mileage.

You may have a dead trailing coil pack or maybe a bad ground to it or something.

Anyways.
First thing.
It sounds like your timing is 1 to 2 notches off.
Try to get the idle as close to 1k as you can. Put the Initial set coupler in amd try to see what it's running at.

I had to restab the CAS a few times before I got it dead on.

Remember when you push the CAS in it shifts because oif the side cut gears.

Just keep trying and you will get it.

When I first got my rebuild running it was at 25 advanced!!! lol. I was amazed it was even running.

So far I have gotten 3.5 miles on the rebuild but it really doewsn't like to go under 1k right now.

I think I developed a vac leak when I puled the turbo off since it could go down to 900rpm before removal.

Fitness Stain

the trailing pack not fireing was cause the CAS was WAYYYY outta wack ...

so i put the CAS back in with the cover plate off, so its almost golden ... might be just a hair off, but its damn close ... i just cant get the ticks to appear at all ... but i assume thats cause i cant get the RPM low enough ...
we got it dead on yesterday, but then i readjusted the CAS per spec and now i cant get the ticks to appear. .. over the next few days im going to be hunting vac leaks and getting those locked down

as far as vac leaks go ... is it safe to just honda bond the suspected areas ... like where the pieces meet ?

i know it will look like crap, but i dont care about under the hood right now .. im more worried about have a reliable car, than i am having a pretty engine bay

Fitness Stain

up

for the honda bond question

WAYNE88N/A

Sure, even some black or red silicone for now around suspected cover plate/ hose leaks (be easy to remove later on)...Next time try the trick of killing the power for the timing light & hooking it back up...You sure the front pulley is bolted on right, hasn't been removed/ put back on turned 90 or 180*?

Parastie

When I put a different engine into my car, I could find the tick marks at all. I spent a good hour slowly adjusting the idle until the engine held an idle, then adjust timing, then idle, then timing...etc.

Fun fun... But now it works.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

sometimes our cars are never ending problems.

you can run with out trail coils (emissions and helps a bit on gas milage)

i've always used the haynes method of stabbing the cas.

you should be able to see the ticks when running.

Make sure when you stab it the pully is alinged with the peg. If you follow the directions exactly you should be able to see the ticks when the car is running.

They might be 1 or 2 inches away from the peg but they will show up. Repaint them to help out a bit.


check for a clogged cat - that would give high gas usage and not allow a low idle.

you probably figured this out but adjusting the butterflies is very sensitve.

You have to do it while it's running. That's why i suggest using a normal screw driver that you modified to work.

200rpm is as little as 1 turn on the screw.

below 1000k the timing is the same. I've set in the 900's then checked at 750 and it's the same.


Setting the tps with the butterfly method is a bit different. Set the tps again b/c if you move the butterfly plates so your tps will sit differently . It should sweep up past 5k.

when using the butterfly plates the idle mixture is key also.

only worry about getting the leading coils timed right.

and the most important thing it to get the timming DEAD on.

i would not suggest boosting until you have gotten it set correctly.

imloggedin

i had the same problem as you lately. surging = vac leak. wont hold low RPM idle... CHECK THE AFM!!! you need to check the afm before you do anything else. get the FSM and a multimeter and check that sucker. mine was giving false readings that it was all the way open all the time.. so at idle the ecu was just dumping gas in and killing idle at low rpm, not to mention flooding it everytime i shut it off. check it

Fitness Stain

yeah ... i need to do that

torean

i think kevin landers lives somewhere in TN.....look him up on the forum

Tofuball

imloggedin is dead RIGHT

After you check the AFM's readings check everything beteween it and the throttle! take off the hose and 'elbow' and pull out the two little 'air exits' (one that goes to the BAC and the other to the weird spider type thing) at the end, then cover the sides of the air exits with RTV black and cram them back in. Then put grease on the sealing surfaces of the pipe and screw it all back on.

I just TODAY fixed that problem on my car (After installing the ported manifold, I my AFM fell partially off and I didnt know it!). Now, my idle is so rock solid you wouldnt belive it. Doesnt move at ALL. Stays right at 700RPM.

Fitness Stain

afm check is coming tomorrow ..

for some strange reason the screw that adjusts the idle on the back of the throttle body is STUCK ... and i mean STUCK

i hosed it down with PB blaster ... nothing ..
i dont know how it got siezed in there, but it WONT MOVE ...

so i took off the TB, and tried more to turn it , and it just wont move ... i have no idea what happened to it ...

so now im searching EBAY for a TB for a replacement ...
i grounded some stuff too ...
grounded the leading coils, the pressure sensor, and the fuel injector part of the harness ...
also installed a restricter piece into the pressure sensor vac line ...
im now waiting to get a BOV worth a damn, and a new TB

JAPSPECGTUs

I have a similar problem, here is mine. Start it up from a cold start, it idles at 1100, lumpy though, guess cause I have a large streetport. When it warms up it surges, and is around 1500. So I restab my timing, but still my idle is high, unscrewed the cam all the way, set TPS to .999 ohms(couldn't get it to exactly 1.000). Then I have this brilliant idea, use the clutch to lower the idle. I quickly teach my girlfriend how to hold the timing light and what to look for. I start it up it is way off at 1500 rmp, I slip the clutch out a bit to manually get the idle down and she explains its retarded a bit. So after I advance it a little, then I get it dead even with the slipping of the clutch, but to my surprise when I push the clutch in and put it in neutral the idle stays around 750-800, beautiful! I shut it off, start it back on, high idle.....hmm slip the clutch out, push it back in and it idles at 750. Weird. I go for a drive, I am cruising at about 20 push the clutch in and it drops to 1000, then into the comfortable 750 lump idle. However from the start up it idles high and then start to surge a little bit. I'm guess its a vac leak. How do you check the AFM? I don't have a FSM, and hate the Acro version at FC3S.org. Try that techninque for setting your timing, it helped me a lot, before it wouldn't idle below 1500. It's funny, you have a high idle because the timings off, you can't set the timing because the idle is to high.....it's hard to troubleshoot other problems when the idle is high because of the timing, you don't know if you have fixed them because the offset timing kills the idle. Here is a good solution eh?

Fitness Stain

ill give that a shot for sure

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

hmmm...using the clutch to set the timing at 750...that's pretty smart!

although technically you are putting load on the engine, so i would only use this method if you for sure are having problems...good idea though

JAPSPECGTUs

Well, yeah you would only need to use this method if you are having problems with you're idle and you think you're timing is off, which when combined become havok. Now I just have to find that damn vac leak. Any know how to test the AFM? Or do I have to let the Acrobat reader take 3 hours on 56k to load from FC3S.org?

JamesWade2002

Fitness stain, where are you? I am in cookeville, TN. I come to nashville alot. I have the same problem as your car. the thing about it that really kills me is that you push the clutch in and it dies. Hate that! I have done everything else to no avail. resetting the timming does help some. let me know what you find

Fitness Stain

im in smyrna, which is about 13 miles south of nashville ..

engaging the clutch doesnt change my idle at all though . maybe a 100 or so rpm but nothing significant ..

im trying to get a better TB, or get mine fixed as that idle adjust screw is fucked now ...

im gonna wait till i get the other BOV on there, as i feel that has to be huring my system ...
i get that after this coming weekend, so then im going to reassemble the engine, and hopefully knock out some of the hesitation

Tofuball

Fitness Stain - Check your PMs

JAPSPECGTUs

It has to lower your idle, if you take your foot off the clutch when it is in gear it will die. Just let it out until it is about to die, then it should lower, you have to hold your foot there manually while somone else looks at the timing marks.

Fitness Stain

ahh .. i see what your saying