usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

Ok I just did some upgrades, I put in a FMIC and Stage 3 BNR turbo. I have 2 720cc injecotrs in the primaries and 2 890cc injectors in the secondaries. Does anyone have this setup or a similar one? If so can you please lend me your SAFC settings so I have a starting point. As of right now I am running to rich the car is low on power and the turbo will not spool up. So any help is appreciated.
Thanks

mr_vaughn

iTrader: (1)

is this on a s4 or s5?

how do you have the SAFC connected? to the pressure sensor or the throttle position?

just try and use a persentage to generate your base.
ie 720cc vs 550cc = 23% difference
so go negative 23%for all points from idle to about 3700rpm
@ 3800rpm try use -38% from 3800rpm to redline

mr_vaughn

iTrader: (1)

is this on a s4 or s5?

how do you have the SAFC connected? to the pressure sensor or the throttle position?

just try and use a persentage to generate your base.
ie 720cc vs 550cc = 23% difference
so go negative 23%for all points from idle to about 3700rpm
@ 3800rpm try use -38% from 3800rpm to redline

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

This is on a S4 I will try your advice. Is there a way to do my settings starting at 500 or 1500 rpm and then change them at 2500,3500,4500 and so on..? or do I have to do it like I am now at 1000,2000 and etc? Oh ya I am wired via pressure sensor. Also do you have any good idea on where to set my throttle points? Thanks much for posting I really appreciate the help.
Jeremy

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

This is on a S4 I will try your advice. Is there a way to do my settings starting at 500 or 1500 rpm and then change them at 2500,3500,4500 and so on..? or do I have to do it like I am now at 1000,2000 and etc? Oh ya I am wired via pressure sensor. Also where should I set my throttle points..?

Wankel7

What are you using to tune this SAFC? Are you using a wideband?

James

NZConvertible

You need to set the correction points below 3800rpm at -24% and the correction points above 3800rpm at -32%. This will make the ECU inject the same amount of fuel as it would with the stock injectors. This should make the car drive like stock. Then you can go to the dyno and tune it properly for more power.

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks any ideas where I should set my high and low throttle points?

gsracer

I'd set the low at around 3-4 pounds and the high around 6.

NZConvertible

I'd set them at 0psi boost and 6psi boost, which should be about 50% and 70% respectively. Initially you'll need to use those corrections I posted for both high and low throttle settings, and then tune from there.

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

Well thanks but I think I have more problems than the fuel as my turbo will not spool at all. The car is running like sh*t and has NO power. Maybe I should have stuck with the stock set up LOL. At least it would move out pretty good then. I really cannot figure it out. I am gonna take the turbo and manifolds off again and make sure that there is no leaks. Because I have no power and I set my fuel to the -24 and -32. It does not smoke as much but still no boost and no power.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Sure your wastegate arm is connected?

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

Ya I never disconnected it, I am however running a bit bigger hose than I used to, to the wastegate. I am running some fuel line hose as I was out of vaccum hose. Its a bit bigger in diameter would that affect anything? Also I just capped off the vaccum lines that used to run to the top mount intercooler. Would any of that stuff cause my problems? The car is a nightmare to start and when it does start it has no power. Like I said I could barley make it around the block. I changed a bunch of stuff at once so its hard to pin point what it could be. Things I changed since it ran normal:
Turbo
Intercooler
Intercooler piping
Injectors 720 primaries and 890 secondaries
3rd Gen Alt
E-Fan
Aluminum radiator.
That was everthing I switched at one time so like I said its kinda hard to pin point whats going on. It sucks cause I was gonna go to the track tonight and tommorow and see what the BNR Stage 3 could do. Any more advice opinions ideas on what the problem is? Any help is appreciated Thanks Again,
Jeremy

MARTIN

It seems like its a boost leak,,, check the intercooler piping, what kind of cuplings did you use???? hope you used some with high resistance to heat....

Scott 89t2

going to the track before tunning would be stupid anyways....

good way to blow it up

RETed

Watch out with running any sizes other than stock primaries.
I was fighting some occasional starting problems, and I finally traced them back to the "stock" ECU shooting a set amount of fuel at cranking.
The ECU doesn't know what size primary injectors, and it's going to assume they are stock.  It shoots a specific pulsewidth that dependent on coolant temps.
Bottom line, no fuel computer (i.e. S-AFC, I'm using a Field SFC-HyperR) can adjust for the initial burst of fuel at cranking.


-Ted

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

True, but even once started it has NO power. I limped it around the block jsut to see how it acted under load and would not climb above 5k rpm. And it was just gutless. I was wondering if it is possible to have the MAF to close to the turbo...? Cuz I did some customizing on the ol TID and now the MAF is right before the turbo. I shortend the length of the whole TID quite a bit. So I dunno if that couls be causing thing to run hay wire or what. Well tommorow I am gonna take the UIM off again and recheck all the connections there and make sure the injectors are plugged in and all that. Then I am gonna go re tighten the bolts on the turbo to make sure thats not leaking. Once I find out, IF I find out what this nightmare is I will post it. Thanks for all the replies

samperry007

you know i posted and aske how much i needed to turn down my 720 to stock levels and all i got was a bunch of crap about tunning, having a wide band and knowing what i am doing and all i wanted to do is set it at the stock level. this thread helped me out even thought when i asked no one answered my simple question. THANK YOU for the help!

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

LOL, Ok guys I have good news and bad news. The good news is I think I know why my car is running like crap. I pulled the UIM off and when I pulled the vacuum lines off I got coolant, anyway I think its coolant. I could not make out the smell it did not smell sweet like coolant but it did not smell strong like gas so I am going with coolant. That was the good news the bad news is I have coolant in my vacuum lines? What would cause this? Is this a sign of the infamous coolant seal..? Or is this somthing else..? Any ideas? once again your guys help is greatly appreciated. I am glad to see samperry even was able to gain some help from my thread.

RETed

WHICH vacuum lines?
If we're talking about the lower intake manifold ones, it could be one or both coolant o-rings in the lower intake manifold.
It's next to impossible to get coolant into the engine from any other source short of the engine ingesting it from the air filter somehow!
The coolant lines into the throttle body are physically separate from anything else - cracked TB???
The coolant line going into the BAC valve is a physically separate part from the BAC valve, so I doubt it's that.



-Ted

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i am willing to bet you hooked up a vacuum line to one of the coolant elbows on the engine. hey it could actually fit if you're using fuel line instead of regular vacuum hose...

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

Hey I did some more "trouble shooting" On a regular compression tester I got about 100 psi on both rotors. I do not have access to a rotary compression tester. I have spark all the way around. One of the plugs looked like the spark was a bit weak but nontheless there was spark. The fuel I am not a 100% sure on but I am pretty sure its there. The car starts pretty good now and will idle but it still sounds funny like one of the rotors is not firing or not firing right or somthing. Then when I put it in gear to move it it has no power..? WTF I do remember dropping my MAF when putting my intake together. So I dunno also my MAF is right in front of my turbo I dunno if that matters or not. The car runs and does not smoke hardly at all. I think the smoke that does come out is just the fuel is maybe just a tad rich yet. So I am lost now. I do not have a lot of diagnostic test tools so anyone got any advice in what sensors to start swapping? I really do not know what else to do at this point. Could the 3rd gen alt be messing things up? I thought I read somthing before where someone was having problems with the 3rd gen alt causing their car to run weird. Well I am open to any ideas now.
Thanks
Jeremy

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

DOH!!!! I found the problem and all is good again in the RX world (at least mine ) I just want to say thanks to everyone who helped out with advice and ideas. I really appreciate those who took the time to help me. I feel like such a dumb *** now. The problem was the fuel injector clip. The wires were pushed back outta the clip so the injector was not firing. Well live and learn I guess, I drove the car around the block and it felt pretty good, except the turbo did not really seem to spool up, I mean it did but not enough to register on my Auto Meter boost gauge which seems to not have as quick as a reaction as my factory one. Anyway do you think my fuel mixture was to lean to spool up the turbo? Well I will find out this weekend when I go to dial it in better. I just took it for a quick drive around the block to make sure it was back to normal. Thanks Again, and Congrats REted on breaking the 10,000 post mark. Later Guys
Jeremy