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welding on wheel spacers

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Old 01-26-06, 02:44 PM
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Arrow welding on wheel spacers

ive been planning to put some fd wheels on my fc for a while but have always been weary of the huge spacers. I researched it and they say that track cars never use spacers because it causes an additional shearing plane and allows for alot of flex on the stud.

I have been toying with the idea of having the spacers welded directly onto the hub. Do you guys think this will help or hurt any? I dont see any flaws with it at all besides the permanent-ness of it but thats not really a problem for me.
Old 01-26-06, 02:48 PM
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it is still adding the extra distance for leverage to add in shearing force. moving the hub out altogether is the best way to fix it but requires a lot of fabrication.
Old 01-26-06, 03:02 PM
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Arrow

Originally Posted by Karack
it is still adding the extra distance for leverage to add in shearing force. .
Are you sure? The way i see it if the spacer is just placed there thne there is a sheering plane between the hub and the spacer and again between the spacer and the rim. Furthermore the longer stud had alot more leverage to break being say 2 inches out past the first sheering plane rather than 1.

but if its welded then there is no sheering plane at the hub/spacer meeting, its solid, and further more the spacer/wheel sheering plane has just about as much if not less leverage than stock since the same ammount of stud is exposed.

Last edited by BklynRX7; 01-26-06 at 03:05 PM.
Old 01-26-06, 09:43 PM
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DO NOT ******* DO THAT!!!!. know how i know? cuase i work at Tires Plus and deal with that kind of stupid **** everyday. like people who put rims on their cars with the wrong backspacing so they go to home depot or some hardware store and buy washers and put behind the wheels... that **** is dangerous and will wear your hub assemblies out. possibly break your studs clean off as i have seen just a few months ago with a chevy truck someone put 20's on and they were rubbing the calipers so they put those spacers on and sho' nuff... ******* broke the damn studs and wheel came off while he was driving... had to replace all his **** on the passenger side... rotor, caliper, inner/outer tie rod, lower control arm, spindle... dude it was all fucked up.
Old 01-28-06, 11:39 AM
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That won't really work.. You would have to weld it to your Rotors and then you would have to replace them every time your rotors went bad. If you were to weld them to the HUB then you would havw to fabricate some weird caliper mounts.... buy the right offset wheels.
Old 01-28-06, 11:44 AM
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Arrow

Originally Posted by RRTEC
That won't really work.. You would have to weld it to your Rotors and then you would have to replace them every time your rotors went bad. If you were to weld them to the HUB then you would havw to fabricate some weird caliper mounts.... buy the right offset wheels.
I realized after i wrote the thread that i forgot about the existance of brake rotors, thats why i never bumped it back up, thanks though.

Last edited by BklynRX7; 01-28-06 at 11:48 AM.
Old 01-28-06, 11:56 AM
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lol..no problem, I always forget the obvious..
Old 01-28-06, 12:46 PM
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Not to mention the fact that welding will take the heat treating out of the hub and create a weak area around the weld.

Andrew
Old 01-28-06, 02:19 PM
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and the further out you move the wheel does add leverage, i guess you just don't see it pictured as i do since a few millimeters is not very much sometimes you have to expand the numbers to get a clear image.
Old 01-28-06, 02:22 PM
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or you could just buy some wheels with lower offsets :P
Old 01-28-06, 03:02 PM
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Arrow

Originally Posted by Karack
and the further out you move the wheel does add leverage, i guess you just don't see it pictured as i do since a few millimeters is not very much sometimes you have to expand the numbers to get a clear image.

i see what your saying , btu the way i was thinking, the welding of the spacer would secure the bolt just liek stock so the final product woudl ahve the smae ammount fo exposed bolt and therefor the same leverage.
Old 01-28-06, 04:29 PM
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No. Rotors and hubs are designed with a specific size stud in mind, and machined to that particular specification. A wheel spacer (and I mean any and all, with the exception clause intact) is built to be generic and fit to ANY rotor, on ANY hub, on ANY car. So rather than having your wheel flush against the rotor (a solid facing) you have it partially against a wheel spacer, which has huge gaps in the area your wheel is placed against, not to mention can actually shimmy its way back and forth along the rotor. (You can argue that all you want, I've seen the wheel marks where that happens.) So your studs have no support, and you actually have a worse fitting between the rim and the rotor/hub assembly than you would otherwise. If you really intend to put that much force on the wheels, you're going to push a lot of money into that car.

So why not do the damn thing right?
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