R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

ok so heres the run down

88 tii
full ex
2.5 fmic and pipes
apexi neo
apexi avcr
rb fuel cut defen


- the car has been flooding when starting up not long after turn off
so i got "rebuilt" injectors with said 100 miles on them, put then on the primary.
it helped, slightly..
- i flow tested and cleaned the old primary injectors, and put them on the secondary rail. it still floods. and when its cold itll almost floods itself dead
- i had been noticing that my idle had been low, so i raised it with the screw right under the tps, and adjusted the R/L screw on the passenger wheel well.
dont remember there being much change from the R/L screw.. and also adusted the hard idle screw on the back of the manifold.
- i also put in a new O2 sensor, and intake air temp. sensor

this was all within the same day,

it started to pop from the ex. every two to three seconds on any in gear decels . and lookin at my afr gauge itll go from lean like usual on a decel, jump to stoich-rich area, pop
and repeat. till 2k where it holds stoich.

on accel. its very rich!!

heres the weird stuff i did a CRANK AGLE senor DTC stab
and was looking at the timing with a light.
the timing still showed to be advanced, nearly an inch
then my timing light stopped working,.... but only on L1 and T1
on L2 and T2 the light works......

def need help!
and any would be GREAT
if its easier u can call my cell 575-693-1147 (new mexico)
Brendan

RandomHero

iTrader: (2)

Does it start up fine when its cold?

I would make sure your computer is getting a good signal from your coolant temp sensor. If your computer thinks your engine is cold all the time its going to run pig rich like that since you need more fuel to stay running at low temp.

If you have a voltmeter just backprope the signal wire and get a reading when its at full cold and when its up to temp. Make sure there is a difference, check out the FSM it should have the voltage that sensor should be reading at various temperatures.

edit: but regardless of any of this you should definately make sure your timing is correct.

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

oh also L1 and T1 are still sparking from the coil all the way down to the spark plug

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

ok well when its cold its cold it seems to run a little better

re stabbed the CAS still not showing time on L1 and T1
and i spayed Carb clean all over the intake manifold, so not thinkin its a vac leak

spinitsidewayz

i have similar symtoms on my 87 tii. Its running super rich and i get alot of white smoke at idle when she's cold. floods sometimes like yours as well. I'm not sure if TPS can have alot to do with running really rich but i've been having idle/deccel backfire problems as well so i am going to check that first thing in the morning. I'll let you know.

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

ok well changed out the spark plugs
helped a little bit runs better

that Rich/Lean screw on the passenger wheel well has no effect if i unplug it...
is it possible that went out, would that cause my problems??

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

ok i swapped coils off a know running fc, leading and trailing
i guess the wires are bad, put the timing light receiver further down the wire and started flashing..

re stab cas agian, got pics gonna post here in a bit still showing to be very advanced (infront of both marks going clockwise)

ill make a vid next so u guys can see what im talking about

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

ok heres the vids

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i226.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid226.photobucket.com/albums/dd84/MR_DRFT/VIDEO_011.flv">

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i226.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid226.photobucket.com/albums/dd84/MR_DRFT/VIDEO_012.flv">

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i226.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid226.photobucket.com/albums/dd84/MR_DRFT/VIDEO_013.flv">

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i226.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid226.photobucket.com/albums/dd84/MR_DRFT/VIDEO_014.flv">



AND CAS/timing pics

thats where if you were using the timeing light, u would see the mark and this is after ive stabbed several times


this is where im putting the cas for TDC


and the mark showing the cas tdc

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

Bump

still needing help

FattMarrell

Sorry all I can think of is boobies

RandomHero

iTrader: (2)

anything on the coolant temp sensor? One should be a sending unit to the gauge, the other sends a signal to your computer. Is it real low on power while your driving?

and yes..... boobies

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

no volts shows 14.5+- while driving

ill check the temp sensor here in a bit
clean termenals, check ohms, voltage etc.

Apex944

iTrader: (10)

Looks like your stabbing the CAS wrong....

The mark your using looks like the roll pin that holds the gear onto the CAS shaft.

There should be a small dimple on that same gear section, that is the one you need to use for CAS stabbing.



If im mistaken then your other issue is you have the wrong pulley/main hub combo on your engine which is throwing your timing off. I had the same issue myself on my 88 T2, after picking up a known 88 T2 main hub and pulley the timing was perfect.




Or you could have the worm gear under the front cover on backwards if the engine isnt original.



Other than timing being an issue your TPS could need setting as well.
Lots of info on setting TPS on the forum.


Also, your narrowband air/fuel gauge does the rich/lean thing constantly because its damn near useless....
Back when I didn't know much about cars I had one in my 944 porsche, was the most useless thing I had ever bought in my life as all it would do was change rich/lean back and forth all the time so there was no way to use it at all.

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

ya i installed my wideband yesterday.
its showing about the same thing
ill get vids up for that soon

-11.5 to 10.0 full throttle ant 7psi
and aboutt the same for idle
and is jumping on decel like on the narrowband

Apex944

iTrader: (10)

So did re-stabbing the CAS using the small dimple instead work?

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

no, the one in the picture is the one i used it is the dimple, i even redid it four times and had another rx7 guy double check it, same symptoms...

i did order fuel injectors from HIGHFLOWFUEL (who by the way should DEF be avoided!!!!)
and they sent me injectors for honda/acura k series!!

anyway until i get that sorted out and get new injectors in there im kinda at a stand still, cause cant think of anything else

oh and the temp sensor is working

R.O.D

iTrader: (3)

Well thank god for Rtek 2.1!!!
thanks to it i was able to determine that the tps was WAAAAYYYY outta wack!!!
and that the BAC was WAAAAYYYY outta wack!!!
and that the idle was WAAAAYYY outt wack lol
thanks guy in japan that had the motor b4 me lol!

anyway got that all back into spec, idles better and no after burn, at all!

do have 1 question though, where does the BAC hook up to?
(that large tube on the bottom)
does it go pre-MAF or postMAF?

cause right now i have it open atmosphere