2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Weird Knocking

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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 01:21 PM
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Weird Knocking

So my damn car has problems now AGAIN!! I waited until the fluids were at OP temps. I did a pull at approx 50% throttle was good no probs. So i slow down into the parking lot and it started making this weird sqeeling. So i pushed the clutch in and coasted to a spot. Then that noise stared to get worse. Poped the hood to see that my hall sensor scrapping on my crank pulley bad so I shut it down.

I pushed the clutch in to see how much movement or end play and supposed to move slightly but the sensor was touching the pulley. I managed to losen it and make the gap wider so its not touching and got the car fired up again.

Then this other noise was happening. When we gave it rev's there is a hard knock sounded like it was coming from the rear housing from what my friend could hear. Also when the car get to its OP temp and sitting at a light for example I can feel this little knocking sound feel like input shaft on the trans maybe? but will only do it when hot.

I duno WTF happened. drove the car home and it was fine all the way. i did a slow 3k to 7k vac run and my buddy said that ****** of something came out the exhaust, prob cat i figure but he said it was chunky ???

idles fine, oil pressure is good all the time, doesnt overheat and there is no leaks.

Its a lot of info but maybe someone can chime in ????
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 01:27 PM
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rap on the cat with a rubber mallet and see if it rattles with the car off. chunks coming out the exhaust i'd say it's your cat coming apart by the sound of it.

as for the hall effect sensor, well the FC never had one so i have no clue what in the **** you're referring to there or how the gap fixed itself magically.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 01:35 PM
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The **** im referring to is a magnetic sensor that replaces the shitty CAS. http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2390

and the gap did not magically fix itself, the sensor gap can be adjusted manually.

the cat is probly on its way out but it is the least of my worries.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 01:43 PM
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i assume you were trying to relate the sensor to the noise that developed, in this case i can't imagine it was in any way related. it just adds to confusion as if it was part of the question with no information added in as to what it was in reference to, like the reader is also psychic.

worries? just jack up the car and whack the cat, if it's bad it is hardly the end of the world..
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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it is related 100% there is aluminum all over the pulley once i made the gap larger the noise stopped. cat will prob be punched out anyway this winter.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 02:53 PM
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i'm still not getting the issue you're asking about. you want to know how to gap the hall sensor for the haltech? or is the issue that the e-shaft is walking causing the gap to expand and narrow intermittently? if so then you need to give it enough room to properly measure the shaft endplay to see if you are having internal thrust bearing issues. the procedure for measuring endplay is in the FSM. without seeing what type of trigger you're using there's no way to know if it is causing the issue or how to adjust it.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 11:01 PM
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His trigger is the Hall effect trigger sold by Ludwig performance.( NO offense,just info Chris).It has the magnets in the Pulley.
I've been trying to get 10aerx7 to get the one by FFE!
Bruno..you probably fried that Cat with all the Driving you've been doing..Tap that sucker and see if you hear any rattles.If so drop the damn thing and punch it out and replace it.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 11:59 AM
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does it seem like a design flaw that is causing the contact or is it due to the eccentric shaft walking?
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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rod knock!! hahaha jk had to say it
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 10:28 AM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
The sensor should of been setup with .040" clearance to the pulley. Even with a huge amount of end play that gives you plenty of clearance when the clutch is engaged.

If you're sure the noise is coming from the back of the engine, I have no idea what it might be. If it's coming from the front, it's possible you damaged the thrust bearings when the e-shaft was shoved against the sensor.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
The sensor should of been setup with .040" clearance to the pulley. Even with a huge amount of end play that gives you plenty of clearance when the clutch is engaged.

If you're sure the noise is coming from the back of the engine, I have no idea what it might be. If it's coming from the front, it's possible you damaged the thrust bearings when the e-shaft was shoved against the sensor.
I did have a paper this gap from pulley to sensor so for sure i have endplay. the sensor still work s fine with no issues suprisingly.

I might just pull my motor apart to see whats happening in there. Ill try the front cover first since its easier.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
His trigger is the Hall effect trigger sold by Ludwig performance.( NO offense,just info Chris).It has the magnets in the Pulley.
I've been trying to get 10aerx7 to get the one by FFE!
Bruno..you probably fried that Cat with all the Driving you've been doing..Tap that sucker and see if you hear any rattles.If so drop the damn thing and punch it out and replace it.
that one wont work with e6x dave wrong trigger
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 09:56 PM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
A piece of paper is no where near .040". Regular printer paper is around .003-004". At that, it's no wonder you had an issue with contact between the sensor and pulley. The sensor being closer than .040" does not make it work better.
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