I've been running without it for like 6+ months or something now, no problems. Here's how to remove. One line comes from the gas tank to the charcoal canister (CC), and the other line goes from the CC to the oil filler neck. Then on the bottom of the CC it has a dump tube for if and when it gets full to dump it to the atmosphere. Remove the CC and for the line that comes from the gas tank, I bent that down to point to the bottom of the engine bay and am just letting it vent there, just like the dump tube did stock on it. Then for the line that goes to the oil filler neck, I removed the line and left the little rubber L that is on the neck on there so it vents the oil fumes into the engine bay as well (don't worry about dripping oil or anything, I've never seen any come out). If you are really worried about oil then you can get a catchcan if you want, but that defeats the purpose of the weight reduction, doesn't it

 

Why would you put a filter on the gas tank line?

 

ok cool i might just go out there now and remove it then

 

Fuel pump sucks fuel from tank, creates a vacuum in the tank, air is drawn in from any source available...including the open line from the engine bay. Just a little precaution.

And before you (not referring to anyone in specific) say "that's what a vented cap is for" go get a piece of 4" PVC pipe with end caps on it. Drill three holes in it...put a shrader valve in one, then suck on another. Tell me if air draws in through the remaining open hole or the shrader valve.

 

Just today pulled the power windows out and put the manual ones in. This is on an '85 but I bet there's not much difference on the FC.

Verdict- the manual window regulators are 3 lbs lighter than the power window ones.

This was determined by a bathroom scale. I weighed myself holding each of the regulators in turn, several times for each part. Right about 3 lbs per door is what you'll save. I'm using this method to put my FB on an autoX diet. So far I've saved an easy/cheap 50lbs without even breaking a sweat.

 

humm with only 3lbs i might ust keep the power ones in there

 

makes me wish I still had my parts car... it had nice manual windows and my power ones don't work for crap anyway. It really sucks to pull up to a fast food place and try to order, only to not be able to get the window down!

 

Are we talking about a different line here? The one I'm talking about that goes into the top of the charcoal canister vents fumes FROM the tank into the canister at startup. It's very apparent when you run this vented and upon startup you can smell gas fumes

 

It's an open line....straight to the gas tank. No valves or anything.

...of course I could be wrong, but I don't think I am.

 

BTW, dont use a Genesis battery unless you have an FD alternator..

 

Use this

http://www.batcap.net/Model800.html

 

That's a rebadged hawker genesis

 

You sure? As far as I know they make their own series of batteries and capacitators.

 

http://www.cycloneaudio.net/cyclone.htm

You can also get the Cyclone Power 665, only 7 lbs.

 

Damn, some of you are hardcore! Time for me to go on a diet.

 

Im going with an Optima and and FD alternator in my car, Im ******* sick of breaking down in all of my cars due to charging problems.. Screw lightweight batteries, if you're broken down, what will that lost weight help?

 

Been there, done that. Couldn't agree with you more on that issue. Nothing is more frustrating then not being able to start your car over a lame battery/charging issue.

 

Remove the big heavy bumpers under the bumper skins. Fabricate some light aluminum framing and put them in place of the heavy stock bumbers and use some of that construction expanding foam to fill the gaps. It should save weight both front and rear about equally. Just use a lawnmover 12v Battery. (weight... 20 pounds (for $17) ) half that of a full size battery. Unless you are a stereo guy then you will be fine (I have had one in my FD for years, no problems). If your car is GXL removce the power stering and go with a manual rack. Power windows are about 1 poiund heavier than manual per side... not that much. BUT the inner door panel is also heavier because of the pockets and lights.. Another 1-2 pounds.

Keep your Bins empty, run 1/2 tank of gas, remove the spare, jack and everythign else... (unless on a long trip)

Remove winshield washer tank and wiper motor (use Rain-X) Keep the wipers though so the cops will leave you alone.

remove all emmisions... Air pump and etc.

remove A/c

Get light wheels

lighter Flywheel

remove cold start assist system

under the bins is some sound deadening stuff as well as back under the spare tire flap

remove the rear wiper stuff and tank

remove the alarm control and power steering electronics box (GXL)

remove A/C

remove exhaust shielding

go on a jenny craig diet yourself

 

Where's the most accurate/cheapest place to get a car weighed? I'm curious to see how light my street legal s4 is.

 

If this car is not for the street then it doesn't need side windows at all. No glass, no regulator, no crank, no guide tracks. Pull out the weather striping too.
The side impact beams are about 5lbs each.
If you are going to have a Lexan front windshield you won't want a wiper. I think it would scratch it up pretty easily. Just keep RainX on it. So that means you can pull all the mechanical bits and wiring associated with the wiper system.
Sound deadening tar is usually around 20lbs total, for the whole car.

 

Eh, I've heard of people running the Batcap batteries fine with no charging problems, this is assuming you don't have an intense stereo and **** too though.

 

Power windows aren't light, manual windows are lighter. But, lexan windows with a srap for rolling them up and down are the lightest! Look into it, they were really popular on old school drag cars. They just have this strap that if you pull it and put it on a hook in the door the window is up, but if you take it off the hood the window will slide down to the bottom of the tracks. Means you can open/close your windows alot faster too! (It was a really popular mod on old *****'s drag cars so check there)

 

Imprez, what did you use to clean the rear of the car (inside) underneath all the carpeting and sound deadening material? after 16 years mine is a little dirty, dunno what to use on it though. obviously not soap and water because the water would have no where to drain, and with all the wires around... im thinking acetone or laquer thinner?

 

Dude, get an FB S1 or S2 a 79' rx7 weighs 1900lbs and some change. You have to swap out the little 12a for a nice 13bt, but its worth how fast it will be. Every 10lbs you take off is almost like getting 1 extra hp.

 

Yeah no **** I was about to say that.