She was great...I can't wait to make another...

 

**** the lexan window ****, its all about garbage bags and duct tape. Bitch.

 

i have a full drag RX-7 second gen, with a roll cage, i must say that to get down to 2,000 is pretty tuff, as mine weighs 2100. if i didnt have the cage i am sure it would weigh 2,000 though. but that is a lot of removing, and a lot of cutting, not to mention lexan windows. if its not going to ba a race car, then i dont recomend trying to get that low. maby try 2200 or so.

I am not saying it is impossible, but i am saying it is a lot of removed parts. and your key word was STREET LEGAL... that makes it even harder!

 

Well I still got a little left to remove but as of right now this is all that is removed

Most all of the interior
Stock dash hacked up and hold on with aluminum bars, weighed 5 lbs before reinstalling it
NOt heater core, ac, blower anything
Still got a cd player and 2 speakers, but its going to probally go too
MOst of sound deadning material removed still got some left
Pass seat gone
One wiper instead of too, single wiper that sweeps about 170 degrees or so
Everting in motor bay not needed to run the car
Pop up headlights removed
Bumper beams removed

Now heres the list of things to come

New steering wheel(ordered just waiting to get it)
Carbon fiber race seats, like 11 pds a piece, ordering next pay check
Roll cage going to order it tonight
Lexan windows, all the way around
Removing misc brackets and ****
Custom Carbon Fiber hood, hatch, front bumper, rear bumper, doors, door panels, dash, and another things
Fiberglass wide body that i might have remade to carbon fiber
Light weigh 16 x 10 in rims
10 gallon aluminum fuel cell
And a whole lot more of misc ****

The last time i weighed the car it was 2460 and I say i have removed close to another 100 pds and still working on it, I will get the car under 2000 pds

Oh and when i said street legal, i meant look it but not really be, Its not street legal now by a couple of things

 

Are you kidding about the roll cage? Perhaps I can't read for ****, but I didn't see anywhere in your posts saying this car was for anything other than fun. If you indeed plan to race this car where you need a cage, then by all means.

Roll cage = heavy, thus negating a lot of your weight reduction.

 

OHHHH ok!

I see, yes it can be done, and it looks like you are on your way! my advantage was that i have removed ALL injection stuff including the wireing harness, and computer.

as i have saiud before mine is a drag car and by no means a street car. there is still more i plan to cut, and remove, but with the very very little that is in my car it does weight 2100 pounds.

If you are interested in seeing pictures of it please feel free to go see my web site.

are you wanting to make a road race car, or a drag car.... or drift? the reason i ask is because if this is a drag car, go with something more like a 2 gallon fuel cell, and you can remove some stuff like the altinator that are not needed for short burst.

 

the weight diff between power and non power is almost none. uve gotta consider the power window is the regulator strapped to a motor, the manual one is a regulator strapped to a heavy *** manual crank. which weighs less? no windows.

maybe manual windows would be lighter if you removed the power window wiring and whatnot. honestly i dont think its worth the inconvenience. tje rear hatch is pretty heavy. you could also remove the sunroof motor and replace the hatch with fiberglass. that would probably be worth about 15 lbs of crap if you do it right.

if the cars for drag only (not track) you could start removing metal from the doors maybe? as long as your not worried about chassis stiffness.

 

Since driver side regulator on my vert is boken (wire jammed inside), I got manual cranks from coupe. By holding them by hands, I feel manual crank is slightly lighter. You should go for it because every little things count. Anyway, I need to find a way to fit it on my vert....

 

I plan to remove the sunroof and replace it with a carbon fiber piece that i can remove when needed, kinda like the sunroofs on the S13 240sx.

This car will mainly for drift and the ocassional road race or autocross.

I want the roll cage for the chassis stiffness and protection. I still plan to get under 2000 pds with the cage.

I will take some pictures of what I got so far.

 

when removing the a/c components under the hood, its probably a good idea to remove the blower and everything near the glove box too right? is removing all the a/c components on the car a bitch?

 

not really a pain unless your planning to save everthing?! Most of the hoses on mine i just cut off cause they were too much a pain to loosen.

 

Some more pictures

 

more pics of those headlights? Tell me they are NOT actually Wal-Mart special $20 foggies...

 

Dude you still have the charcoal canister, get rid of that **** it's not needed!

And what're you doing with a redtop battery! Dude that's wasted weight, get a lightweight battery or a motorcycle one, come on now I thought you were hardcore

EDIT:
Noticed your variable resistor is still there too, tisk tisk now, that's another 0.4 lbs iirc. Go standalone too and get rid of all that excess wiring, set it up to be push start with a button, etc.

 

lol...

me @ track days = bike battery + push start car + never shut it off...

 

Haha, don't laugh they are, there just temporaries till i get my Hella 90mm Bi Zenon projector modules

 

pics...

 

I've seen people run motorcycle batteries normally fine, just need one powerful enough. I've talked to a few 3rd gen guys that do this. Then theres the lightweight battery I'm looking at that is normal size and has good CCA's and such, I've read of old muscle cars running them fine.

 

Oh I'm hardcore, just my genisis battery died and I'm going to order another soon, oh and don't worry standalone is coming with the street ported motor and turbo.

 

surprised nobody responded abotu the adjustable rack.... good god thats much heavier than a non tilt rack... think about it.. the tilt rack has so much more to it so that it can tilt thus making it almost twice as heavy... and i could have sworn somebody proved that the elec windows are lighter than the manual... but that was a long time ago when i saw that so i dont know for sure

 

Good man, now get rid of that charcoal canister.

 

Thats what i was think about the colum myself, with all the extra u joints in there and **** that it would be heavier but I'm still stumped on the windows, i guess I will one day pull them both out and weigh them up to see whats what.

Heres a piture of the headlight, the batts died on my camera so this is all i got of them, I started them and stopped work on them to do the hella ones.

 

Well I havn't removed the charcoal canistor cause i have heard diff stories about it and plus I know nothing on how to remove it? like do i need to reroute the lines or just block them off or what

 

unbolt it...put filter on gas tank line...plug rest.

The lights might have looked slick if you hadn't cut your bumper all up...:/...but I have no room to speak...I tried ot make it work to a few years back...

 

oh don't worry bumper was already trashed, i didn't care.