weight of manual windows vs power?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Woodbine, MD
weight of manual windows vs power?
I'm curious if anyone knows the difference in weight between power and manual windows. (including door cards would be even better)
I need to keep stock doors for my class, so I can't gut the entire thing (I know there is a crazy amount of weight there)
thanks!
I need to keep stock doors for my class, so I can't gut the entire thing (I know there is a crazy amount of weight there)
thanks!
About 3-5 pounds diff per door. Not worth doing. That's assuming you want the windows still functional, comparing power vs. non.
Now if you were talking about replacing the windows with lexan (tm) or something, but not sure if rules allow.
Now if you were talking about replacing the windows with lexan (tm) or something, but not sure if rules allow.
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
May not be pertinent about the weight question,but if you need to roll the windows down with the battery out or of it goes dead..you're screwed.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,189
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From: Woodbine, MD

Thanks pfsantos
Lol, but worth noting styx does have a point if a crash prevents the door from opening. Then again, when that happens you may not be able to open the window anyway. So keep a glass breaker handy.
It might be bending the rules, but what if you were to keep your stock panel on and gut everything, no glass, no motors, regulators, Just the panel and linkage to opena nd close the door
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Woodbine, MD

and I prefer not to get rained on when I drive home...
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I remember watching a vid about the new McLaren (I think) and they explained that it had power windows because they were actually lighter than manual.
Unless you have a set of manual door guts on hand I wouldn't think the weight difference would be worth it.
I've never gutted a FC door but on the Z, on which I just finished the door renovation, the heaviest thing in there has to be the side impact bar.
Which I'm assuming you cannot remove.
Unless you have a set of manual door guts on hand I wouldn't think the weight difference would be worth it.
I've never gutted a FC door but on the Z, on which I just finished the door renovation, the heaviest thing in there has to be the side impact bar.
Which I'm assuming you cannot remove.
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 18
From: Woodbine, MD
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Personal observation lately,as I had to keep starting the car and reaching in the cabin.Battery would go dead half the time.(and I was glad I had manual windows!.I got a 10 foot span on the garage.cramped)
But as Paulo said,the whole electrical assembly is really not all that Cumbersome.






