2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

weight of manual windows vs power?

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Old May 6, 2014 | 10:10 AM
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weight of manual windows vs power?

I'm curious if anyone knows the difference in weight between power and manual windows. (including door cards would be even better)

I need to keep stock doors for my class, so I can't gut the entire thing (I know there is a crazy amount of weight there)

thanks!
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Old May 6, 2014 | 10:17 AM
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About 3-5 pounds diff per door. Not worth doing. That's assuming you want the windows still functional, comparing power vs. non.

Now if you were talking about replacing the windows with lexan (tm) or something, but not sure if rules allow.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 10:21 AM
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May not be pertinent about the weight question,but if you need to roll the windows down with the battery out or of it goes dead..you're screwed.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
May not be pertinent about the weight question,but if you need to roll the windows down with the battery out or of it goes dead..you're screwed.
I really don't want to turn this into a "which is better" thread. But you don't ever need to roll your window down, opening the door works just fine in emergencies

Thanks pfsantos
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Old May 6, 2014 | 10:34 AM
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Lol, but worth noting styx does have a point if a crash prevents the door from opening. Then again, when that happens you may not be able to open the window anyway. So keep a glass breaker handy.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 11:02 AM
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It might be bending the rules, but what if you were to keep your stock panel on and gut everything, no glass, no motors, regulators, Just the panel and linkage to opena nd close the door
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Old May 6, 2014 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by GrossPolluter
It might be bending the rules, but what if you were to keep your stock panel on and gut everything, no glass, no motors, regulators, Just the panel and linkage to opena nd close the door
that's more than bending the rules, that's completely breaking them

and I prefer not to get rained on when I drive home...
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Old May 6, 2014 | 12:05 PM
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I remember watching a vid about the new McLaren (I think) and they explained that it had power windows because they were actually lighter than manual.

Unless you have a set of manual door guts on hand I wouldn't think the weight difference would be worth it.
I've never gutted a FC door but on the Z, on which I just finished the door renovation, the heaviest thing in there has to be the side impact bar.
Which I'm assuming you cannot remove.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...listed-213717/
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Old May 6, 2014 | 01:08 PM
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awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for, my search skills need a little work.... I can always count on BlueTII to have already done something I'm thinking about
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Old May 6, 2014 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by eage8
awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for, my search skills need a little work.... I can always count on BlueTII to have already done something I'm thinking about
lmao! and he's an extraordinarily nice guy as well
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Old May 6, 2014 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by eage8
I really don't want to turn this into a "which is better" thread. But you don't ever need to roll your window down, opening the door works just fine in emergencies

Thanks pfsantos
Sorry Eage,I wasn't trying to change the subject,I was just pointing out that IF you had to work on the car it would be easier with Manual windows.
Personal observation lately,as I had to keep starting the car and reaching in the cabin.Battery would go dead half the time.(and I was glad I had manual windows!.I got a 10 foot span on the garage.cramped)
But as Paulo said,the whole electrical assembly is really not all that Cumbersome.
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