My connectors on my thermo sensor are broken...see included pic...My question is, since the warmed up indication of a functioning thermosensor is continuity between the two, couldnt you just splice the wires together? Its gonna take a little while to get the part in and I want to drive my 7...Anyone know if this is possible??

Rat

 

Where's the pic?! The answer is no, because the thermosensor is a variable resistor, the ECU would probably have a **** if you sent the the full voltage back to it! It would reading it as a completely wrong temp.

 

We want pictures, We want pictures. By the way, my water thermo sensor put out right near .50 v at full warm up. Starts out cold way over 1.5 volts and works its way down to .5v. Where's the picture????????????????????????????????????

 

ITs not that excting trust me...Hold on!!

 

Here it is..

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=3

Page 3 towards the bottom...Basically I found that the 2 wires on the Thermo Sensor are broken. Only reason I even found it, was because my electric fan decided to take a dump on the way back from work. Mangled my radiator too..... On the same day, my Silverado decided that it didnt like the existing starter and wanted a new one. MAN!! Some days it doesnt pay to get outta bed...

Rat

 

Yeah, the thermo sensor is decreasing in volts as the resistance decreases. I assume thats because one side is voltage, and one side is ground. Upon further reflection, putting a voltage loaded line directly to ground, without beneifit of a resistor isnt very smart. At 80 deg C (176F) according to page 4A-46, the resistance is still about .32 K Ohms +/- .032K Ohms. Not much resistance to be sure, but still enough to count!

Guess I could be a cheap bastard and head to radio shack and splice in a .32K ohm resistor till my sensor comes in..........

 

Oh that WATER TEMP SWITCH. I thought it was the WATER THERMO SWITCH on the back of the water pump housing. Disregard my earlier post. Seems that one could just be jumpered so your relief solenoid would work when at operating temps. If its not making the relief solenoid will vent to the silencer all the time taking air away from your non functional port air and split air pipe, like Six Rotors said.

 

Wait a minute, that's not the thermosensor!
That's the temp switch that controls the electric fan. The thermosensor used by the ECU is on the back of the water pump housing under the alternator.

 

Damn, Hailers beat me to it! I thought it had something to do with the e-fan though. It's mentioned in the wiring diagrams and e-fan schematics.

 

OOps..!! So jumpering it would be okay??

 

It is the thermoswitch and in the northern hemisphere it has nothing to do with the electric fan!(that switch is on top the thermostat housing).You can jumper it and you will have normal function of the air relief valve all the time(ie hot or cold).This may or may not be a problem(potential overheating of cat),but if your temperature switch under the passenger seat is working it is worth a try.
If the wires were in that condition when you went for your emissions test,it is likely the cause of your failure.

 

how is this tied to the temp switch under the passenger seat?

 

My guess is the wires have been broken for quite some time...

 

The book says *Heat hazard sensor: Detects floor temperature. Sends signal to control unit. Heat hazard sensor turned ON, relieves secondary air.
Theres a check out in the book under the check out of the relief solenoid valve.

 

Yeah you're right, my boob!

 

So the basic question is, can I jumper this sensor, or do I need a new one...

Rat

 

Yes you can jumper the connection.The risk is relatively low.My own personnel preference is to replace the the switch just because I like things to be the way they were intended.You may get a good switch at the wreckers(I have found a couple here)

 

I actually got one today...