water pump leaking... letting vaccuum in?
03-15-10, 11:09 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
water pump leaking... letting vaccuum in?
Been having a small coolant issue as of late. Coolant overflow bottle doesn't move, coolant slowly 'disapearing'. Air is getting into the system. I though I may have coolant seal issues 
Car doesn't smoke up at start up.
Upon inspection to see if i have a leak, i found traces of green/white crusties coming down form the water-pump. So waterpump is definitely an issues.
I have the big yellow coolant funnel, and after i got all the air out of the system, i let it sit over night, and started it back up to see if it would make 'bubbles'.
Doesn't make any bubbles, so I still don't think its the coolant seals. Just wondering if a leaking waterpump could give me these symptoms.
Car doesn't smoke up at start up.
Upon inspection to see if i have a leak, i found traces of green/white crusties coming down form the water-pump. So waterpump is definitely an issues.
I have the big yellow coolant funnel, and after i got all the air out of the system, i let it sit over night, and started it back up to see if it would make 'bubbles'.
Doesn't make any bubbles, so I still don't think its the coolant seals. Just wondering if a leaking waterpump could give me these symptoms.
03-16-10, 12:10 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
to be clear, the coolant doesn't get sucked back into the system by the overflow, which form whatl i read is indicative of either a bad rad cap (i got a new one just incase) or coolant seals presurising the system and not letting the cap suck coolant back in.
Its just wierd because the cap doesn't suck coolant back in, but teh system doesn't stay 'presurised but is somehow sucking air in or getting air by the coolant seals.
Again, no smoke at startup and no smell form exhaust.. D: (other the 'rotang'... oooh premix :P)
Its just wierd because the cap doesn't suck coolant back in, but teh system doesn't stay 'presurised but is somehow sucking air in or getting air by the coolant seals.
Again, no smoke at startup and no smell form exhaust.. D: (other the 'rotang'... oooh premix :P)
03-16-10, 08:43 AM
#4
Waterpump is leaking around the shaft seal. New waterpump is necessary.
Here is some more information:
Here is some more information:
Get the pressure tested. If it passes, get a new MAZDA radiator cap.
Before you start to rebuild the engine, try everything else first.
Does the coolant expand into the tank as the engine warms up? Then does it correctly pull back into the radiator when the engine cools? You can have a vacuum leak between the cap and the overflow tube that allows air to be sucked into the radiator when the engine cools. Then some of the coolant stays in the overflow. Next time you run the car the process repeats.. Eventually you are low on coolant. At this point when you run the car, the hot air and steam is bubbling into the tank and the car acts exactly like it has a blown coolant seal, only it isn't blown, At this moment, you will be in very great danger of overheating your engine.
I had this exact problem with my 90 Vert N/A. I tested everything, compression, cooling system pressure test. I replaced my rad cap, my tstat with oem. The problem still existed. When the overflow tank got full or when the low coolant buzzer went off, I poured the overflow tank back into the radiator. I found I wasn't losing coolant, just moving it one-way into the overflow tank. I didn't know to test the overflow tube for a leak, so I lived with it like this for months. I then eventually changed the cooling system over to Evans NPG+ and went the non-pressurized route. It works great for me, but I don't recommend it for anyone unless they have thoroughly sorted out the cooling system and are very sure that EVERTYTHING is in perfect operating order.
Later I found that I had a small crack in my thermostat housing and a leak around the shaft on my waterpump. I have replaced both and now the system works as designed. I stayed with the Evans Coolant, 'cause I like it a lot.
Good luck.
Before you start to rebuild the engine, try everything else first.
Does the coolant expand into the tank as the engine warms up? Then does it correctly pull back into the radiator when the engine cools? You can have a vacuum leak between the cap and the overflow tube that allows air to be sucked into the radiator when the engine cools. Then some of the coolant stays in the overflow. Next time you run the car the process repeats.. Eventually you are low on coolant. At this point when you run the car, the hot air and steam is bubbling into the tank and the car acts exactly like it has a blown coolant seal, only it isn't blown, At this moment, you will be in very great danger of overheating your engine.
I had this exact problem with my 90 Vert N/A. I tested everything, compression, cooling system pressure test. I replaced my rad cap, my tstat with oem. The problem still existed. When the overflow tank got full or when the low coolant buzzer went off, I poured the overflow tank back into the radiator. I found I wasn't losing coolant, just moving it one-way into the overflow tank. I didn't know to test the overflow tube for a leak, so I lived with it like this for months. I then eventually changed the cooling system over to Evans NPG+ and went the non-pressurized route. It works great for me, but I don't recommend it for anyone unless they have thoroughly sorted out the cooling system and are very sure that EVERTYTHING is in perfect operating order.
Later I found that I had a small crack in my thermostat housing and a leak around the shaft on my waterpump. I have replaced both and now the system works as designed. I stayed with the Evans Coolant, 'cause I like it a lot.
Good luck.
03-16-10, 04:55 PM
#6
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