I am watching the video. HOW COME his **** isn't stuck together??? I pulled on the Flywheel bolt for a week!! I stood on the motor, had others stand on the motor!!!

Front stationary gear!! his comes right out. Mine still isn't out!!

his motor is too easy!!

Other than that I am learning alot

 

YEAH... Bruce takes that flywheel off with a 2 foot bar with the motor on the floor


He's tearing a motor apart that has already be taken apart dude....... nobody wants to be embarrassed with the screamimg and swearing that goes on whilst trying to get that friggin nut off!!!!!!!!!!!

I loosen the front stationary gear first.... just loosen it

My advice... get about a four foot piece of 1/4" steel bar stock, measure the distance between two of the pressure plate bolt holes on the flywheel (preferebly leaving one hole between them) and drill that out of one end the bar and bolt it on the flywheel so that the long end of the bar is sticking out to the spark plug side of the motor..... then have a buddy stand on the motor and use a 3/4 breaker bar with a 6 foot piece of conduit on the end of that like i do!!!!!! (its easire to do it in the car... don't need the buddy to stand on the motor!!)

Put the flywheel back on, just snugly, and then you'll be able to get the front bolt out using the above mention process.... PS you'll need the bar to put enough torque on the bolt once you get it back together

Mazdatrix sells the flywheel bolt bar.... but if your snappy, you can do it yourself like i described above!

 

Impact tools make removing all of this stuff VERY easy. I have an electric impact wrench that will loosen both the flywheel nut and front nut in seconds. Cost $79 Canadian.

Before that, I just used a 7 foot breaker bar and was easily able to remove the nuts.

 

Impact wrenches make eeeverything easy

 

nono I meant the stationary gear that is in the front Iron. His just slid out. Mine seems to be stuck in there. And the main reason for my rebuild is that lower corner by the exhaust port was cracked off allowing coolant into the motor=007 smoke screen at start up.I nned to get the Stationary gear off and move it to the new front iron. Mine seems to be stuck but his just came out.

I had to take my short block up to the shop and have them use their 1000lbs impact on both the 2 1/8" and the 19mm. My little 325lbs impact wouldn't budge either of them.

 

I used a 400lbs gun on both with a 20 year old air compressor and it worked fine....

For the stationary gear, I would assume either a block of wood and a large hammer, or a OA tourch to heat it up......

 

Electric,that powerfull? wow! So whats the model/make, I will defenitly have to pick one of those up for sure!

 

I've heard a couple of good things about an electric impact. Somebody said they had a bosch that kicks ***.

 

I used a dewalt my friend has that works awsome....

 

old trick that never fails>> heat/wax on the threads......

 

How do you get wax on the threads of a bolt that won't come off. Are you suggesting that wax will leach under a bolt and loosen loctite when you add heat???

 

it's all about tools and techniques, i have seen people **** with things for weeks that i have removed in less than 5 minutes.

 

Yeah, I have to agree...post the make/model for us.The couple of one's I've owned aren't worth ****.

 

What about that wax thing?? Which electric impact. What was this thread about??

 

technically you don't even have to remove the front stationary gear from the housing, only if you are extremely picky and want to clean everything extremely thoroughly.

at least i think you were serious about that..... do you know where you are right now?

 

I have to transfer the stationary gear from the broken Iron to the replacment. the old one has a 1/2" chunk broken out where the water jacket is only about .060" thick. I will definatly put epoxy in that area to beef it up before I put it back together.

 

did you try a block of wood and a hammer? also be sure you are rocking it out by hammering in different positions to try and massage it out of the hole.

i know what you mean by their engines coming apart abnormally easy though...

 

The one that I have is a cheap Power Fist unit from Princess Auto. It's rated at 230 or 240 Ft-LBS, but must be much more then that since it easily handles the flywheel nut.

DeWalt makes some units up to about 1,100 Ft-Lbs, and they can found inexpensivly as refurbs. But something of around 400-500 Ft-LBS should do fine.

I must prefer electric tools over air tools. No need for a compressor, hoses, oilers, driers, etc.

 

Electric is also gioing to be at full power unlike my old compressor. I feel that low air pressure is why my impact would not break the flywheel nut. My old compressor (somebody was throwing away and I grabbed it) only goes up to 100PSI. Once you start to "use" it the pressure drops rapidly. So, trying to get the nut off with 87psi just doesn't cut it.

YOU WILL get 110v out of that electrical socket "every" time you pull that trigger. Making sure that you are getting all the torque. Unless you are in Mexico where they get massive power fluctuations called grey outs.

Karack, No, I really haven't pounded it yet, I was more concerned with finding a new iron and one useable rotor housing. Just carrying the Front Iron around showing people I noticed the gear would'nt come out even though many different people tried (half ***) to get it out. Bruce on the other hand, His slides right out. In fact he had to bolt it up to keep his from "falling" out. Yea right.

Has anybody used epoxy on that thin part of the housing??? Don't reply here, I'll start a new thread as this is a good topic.

 

sorry...hit the button again...

 

I just got the dewalt a few weeks ago.it was rated at 240.made easy work of the flywheel bolt.

well worth the money I spent on it...

 

If you are going to have the irons hot dipped to clean them, then you need to remove the stationary gear sets.

Mine popped out fine with a couple whacks from a dead-blow hammer. They certainly did not just lift out by hand.

Engines vary. I broke down two short blocks last week. One came apart nicely. The other took a lot persuasion to get the irons apart.

-bill

 

I got the gear out this afternoon. I did take the irons and the rotor housings to the machine shop to have hot dipped. I spent overan hour on one rotor housing. I was cleaning it with mineral spirits......it never came clean. The machine shop cleaned all five peices while I waited. Took 30 minutes. I paid the guy $10 bucks out of appreciation.

I painted the Irons tonight. they look great.