Wankel7

I have read almost every post on here, Teamfc3s, and Nopistons on porting. I have not seen much discussion about how many people removed the hot side before the porting.

I am going to port a S5 turbo. I understand the shavings are a bad thing. Howere I figure if you were to vacuum it out really well it would be cool. Or, get a really strong magnet and put it on the back side of the waste gate chamber so the shavings would be attracted to that.

Just wondering how you guys cleaned the turbo out if you didn't remove the hotside.

How hard it is to remove the hotside? I figure it is just bolts. I just don't want to deal with the insides of the turbo.

James

ilike2eatricers

After porting I just brought it to the gas station down the street and blasted it with compressed air for a few minutes.

Wankel7

Yeah, that sounds like that would work just fine.

When you did yours did you remove material from the top of the flapper and the backplate so it could swing open more?

James

Wanked_FC

iTrader: (1)

I don't reccomend porting it with the hotside still on. Too many metal flakes get everywhere.

wpgrexx

I ported an s4 with the hot side on. Just stuff rags way up there to prevent anything going through and than blow it out with air.

NZConvertible

It's pretty easy. Here's an excerpt from a turbo rebuild how-to:

"There’s six 13mm bolts holding it on with small brackets sandwiched between the bolts and the housing. This is a compression fitting – you’ll understand once you get it apart. Take off the four bolts that you can easily get to – again, with a combination wrench and a hammer. There are two bolts directly under where the oil lines attach. Before you loosen those, mark the relationship of the turbine housing to the center section. Use a marker, or some correction fluid, or a grease pencil just to check yourself come assembly time. Start in on those two bolts. They’ll eventually start hitting the center section – that’s OK. Work on each side, alternating back and forth. The bolts will push the turbine housing off. Eventually it will be free and you can remove the bolts. Lift the center section straight up – it should pull free easily. You’ll see the whole turbine wheel now."

And reinstallation:

"OK, now for the turbine housing. Put it on your turbo stand, and set the rest of the turbo onto it. You’ll have to start the top and bottom bolts that hit the center section first. Don’t forget the bracket that goes around the bolts Evenly tighten all the bolts so the center section compresses itself into the turbine housing. Keep checking and make sure the turbo still spins freely and that it’s not hanging up."

Wankel7

Thanks for that info NZ. Just one question. Once you remove the hotside would that expose the bearigs? Thanks.

James

SureShot

It exposes the turbine, but not the bearings.

FWIW: I ported mine with the hot side on only because I had the engine out on the floor (J-spec swap)

A tip: Cut some material off the back side of the flapper so it can open wider before hitting tha back plate.

Wankel7

Thanks man! I willl make sure I do that. Could you also remove a little material on the backplate where the flapper would hit?

James

SureShot

Some have done that.

I actually did both.
I recessed the back plate about 1/16" & flattened the back side of the flapper arm almost 1/8"

Boost pressures with the waste gate connected directly to the manifold pressure:
in 1st thru 5th 5-6-6-6-6.

I now am using an old vac rack solenoid in parallel with a manual boost controller.
I leave it on low for daily driving, and switch it to 10 for play time.