cmsprofessor

I've been trying to make up a DLIDFIS system for my 91. The motor was blown and the EFI scrap so I have a "new" 88 N/A engine with a Racing Beat Holley carb. I followed the diagrams of jeff20b and have a distributor from an 85, three J109 igniters, and three Blaster II coils. The igniters are mounted on the heatsink and almost all the wires are run. I need to pick up a keyed 12v source for the coils. Looking at the wire diagrams I find some wires hot with Ig-1 and some with the start position. Am I over analyzing or do I need a source that would be hot in BOTH positions? Has anybody got one of these waste spark systems running in an FC? In one post I read the Blaster coils cannot be used in a horizontal position - is this true?

GodSquadMandrake

I love these kinds of threads = meat and potatoes.

Is this an FB engine or something? I thought all FC's were fuel injected, even my 86 is. Well that is beside the point I guess.

If these are actually blaster coils, they are oil filled and that oil needs to sit level in an up and down position. There is a blaster coil which is poly filled, it's the high vibration version with the black canister instead of the blingin chrome. That one is more likely to be able to sit horizontally, but you still run the risk of something vibrating loose and shorting out internally. I would research it on the MSD website, the have nice forums.

If you are talking about 12v to the coils, yes they would need 12v in both the start and run key positions from the ignition. How else are you going to get it started?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The black/yellow wire in the engine bay is hot anytime the key is set to IGN. This includes during start.

The FC comes from the factory with a wastespark system because it was cheaper then using two seperate coils for each rotor.

cmsprofessor

Thanks for the info on the Blaster II coil position. My 13b WAS fuel injected but now has the Holley instead. Since the ECU will no longer be used, I need to wire it up for the Dizzy. The problem seems to be that the ECU had a constant 12v and decided when to give the coils energy. One method that may work is to pull 12v from the battery through a switched relay. When the switch is on you would get power in both Ig-1 and Start positions. The downside that I can think of is that if the switch were on rolling the car in gear would bump start it without the key.
I really don't know much about the ECU and EFI. Can I use the exhisting CAS and 2 gen coil packs without the EFI? Will the ECU see there is no fuel and not give proper spark? Even though I have made the DLIDFIS system I still have the stock coil set up I could revert to. All the info is with the 1st gens. Somebody has to be running a Holley on a second. How do you have ignition?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Even if you have ripped your EFI harness out, there is still switched 12V at the wire I mentioned at the original coil plugs. You can use this to switch your new ignition relay (which should connect directly to the battery via a fuse).

You cannot use the stock CAS and coils without the ECU. The CAS is a reluctor with a very low output signal (hence the shielded wire). The ECU reads this signal, amplifies it and uses it to time the ignition and injection. The ECU outputs to the coils are totally seperate and electrically not connected to the CAS. The ECU fires the coils by pulsing them with a much higher level signal (5V if I remember correctly).

Edit...Well I guess you could use the stock leading coil via the "transistor trick".

cmsprofessor

Thanks for the wire tip. I have not started to trim unnecessary wires yet and the ECU is still intact. Should I be looking at using the stock system with the Holley - or would it even work?

wheelmanst

If I were you I would save the trouble of keeping the stock ign. sys and continue with your distributor setup. This is a picture of my setup running a 1st gen dist. with 1st gen coils. Works perfectly, and I used existing wires for the key on power (From stock coil harness). This is still a work in progress, although the car is running and currently in the break-in process. I still have the stock ecu and harness waiting to be taken out and the wiring still has some clean up to be done but it runs great with the setup. Btw if you were curious the motor is street ported with a Weber 48IDA. Any more questions on this setup feel free to ask.

NOPSTN4EVER

I used to have a bridgeported carb engine in my FC I used a 1979 distributor with points and condensor and two Bosch coils and ran them at full voltage, they worked fine for years I also used a small 12v relay and a switch to power it but that was on my track car which is under lock and key.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Don't use the stock setup for ignition. Without the AFM you won't get the proper ignition advance and you'll be seriously down on power.

Also for the love of god do NOT use pre '81 stuff. Use the later electronic distributer NOT the earlier points distributer. Why? Because it's very low output and not nearly as reliable.

NOPSTN4EVER

Aaron knows best I used the1979 ignition cause it was all I had

cmsprofessor

I intend to use the 85 distributor and the three J109 igniters. Once I get it wired up the next move will be to elimanate the unecessary wires and rats nest. I have to move the location of the leading coils because I had the oil filled units horizontal. I never would have known that if I had not read the posts - Thanks.