2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Warning cluster reset

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Old May 23, 2004 | 09:06 AM
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From: Waldorf, MD
Warning cluster reset

Is their any way to reset a warning cluster alarm.

the low oil light came on, oil level fine, but changed just to be safe, light buzzer still on, not sure what could be the problem.

Anyone know how much the oil level sensors cost, and who might carry them, besides mazda.
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Old May 23, 2004 | 09:29 AM
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From: A Mile Closer to God (Denver)
Hey, Jazzman. I've got an oil sender for an '87 which I never installed. Had the same problem, but the cause turned out to be a broken wire right at the unit.
The connector isn't sealed, and can get lots of crud in it. I'd pull it off, clean it and the post on the sender and see if that clears it up. If not, i'd be happy to sell you the one I have.
On the cluster, there's no reset button or procedure. It just looks (via the ecu) for a signal from the oil pressure sender and turns on the light. So, I'd suspect the wiring (at the sender ) first and the sending unit second.

- k -
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Old May 23, 2004 | 09:37 AM
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Oh, It's not the oil pressure sensor, it is the oil level sensor (in the oil pan), I replaced it and the warning buzzeer is still going off. The wiring on the old one was kinked, and exposed so I replaced it with a used one.
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Old May 23, 2004 | 10:19 AM
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If the wire that leads from the sensor to the buzzer is grounded at any point, the buzzer will constantly sound. Just replace the wire from the cluster to the buzzer (grab a Haynes/factory manual and look up the colour, then run a new wire in place following the harness).
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Old May 23, 2004 | 10:22 AM
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Originally posted by Jazzman_Q
Oh, It's not the oil pressure sensor, it is the oil level sensor (in the oil pan), I replaced it and the warning buzzeer is still going off. The wiring on the old one was kinked, and exposed so I replaced it with a used one.
Pull the plug off the oil level sender. Put a meter on the wire going TO the sender. There should be NO continuity. If that is the case, your problem lies in the wiring to the light cluster. The wire color should be RW or Red/White.
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Old May 23, 2004 | 11:43 AM
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Won't be a bad idiot light/clock cluster if the buzzer is going off. Will be a sensor problem only.
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Old May 23, 2004 | 11:32 PM
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Thanks guys, I have been checking the sensor, and thought I was stupid or something, I got a DVM from my father-in-law, and upon asking after replacing the sensor, and still getting the buzzer, he tells me that the DVM won't check for continuity (sp).

I get another one and find that the original sensor was fine...

Now I guess I have to run a new line as has been suggested. I'm not good at reading electrical schematics so if someone could tell me what wire at the CPU to replace, I'll be off to work on it.


Thanks
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Old May 24, 2004 | 12:00 PM
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Not so fast. Disconnect the sensor plug. Did the buzzer/light stay on. It should not have done so. If it did stay on there is a short in that line OR something amiss at the cluster.

Depin the W/R wire at the cluster OR remove the plug from the cluster. Then ohm out the wire from that end to the sensor plug end. It should ohm out. Now leave one end of the meter on one end of the wire and then touch the other meter lead to a good ground. It should not ohm out or ringout. If it does ringout b/t the wire and the chassis ground, then there is indeed a short to ground.

There are two large connectors b/t the sender and the idiot light cluster. One is the connector b/t the Front and Rear Harness and the other the connector b/t the Front and the Instrument Panel Harness.

It was unclear to me if the light/buzz was happening if you took the sender plug off with the key to ON/engine running/whatever.
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