Walbro or RP
#1
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Walbro or RP
Which fuel pump is worth the money. The Walbro is about 130 and the rotary performance fuel pump which holds up to 500hp runs to a grand total of 260 something. Pretty pricey, but is it worth it to get the Rotary Performance?
89 gxl/t2-R.I.P
87 t2- a monster
85 gsl- daily driver
89 gxl/t2-R.I.P
87 t2- a monster
85 gsl- daily driver
#4
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (61)
I have the RP pump in my car and im Pushing 372rwhp on a stock motor with just bolt ons.
is there a walboro pump or other pump good to 500hp?
Im planning on having the motor pulled and half b-ported and turbo changed to T-66 and looking to push
475hp to the groud.
do anyone see a problem in using the RP pump for 475hp?
Thanks
Tony
is there a walboro pump or other pump good to 500hp?
Im planning on having the motor pulled and half b-ported and turbo changed to T-66 and looking to push
475hp to the groud.
do anyone see a problem in using the RP pump for 475hp?
Thanks
Tony
#5
Nope no problem. So you are in the 11s now? What was your exact time? What all exactly do you have? I know a to4e turbo, fmic and haltech but what else, just full exhaust and intake or what? Thanks alot.
#7
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
A Walbro 340 (255lph hi pressure) has been tested by one of the TurboBuick vendors with a hot wire kit that increases voltage to 14volts. They tested 3 different pumps and every one could support in excess of 600hp. I have a source and get them for $115 which includes shipping.
I run a Walbro and expect it to push me into the 10's@125mph+ with no problems.
Anyone who wants the website for the the discounted pumps email me at gnx7@hotmail.com.
GNX7
I run a Walbro and expect it to push me into the 10's@125mph+ with no problems.
Anyone who wants the website for the the discounted pumps email me at gnx7@hotmail.com.
GNX7
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#8
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (61)
I ran 11.9 @ 117 would have had a better time, but the tires I used where too tall 28X16X10 slicks that Ari let me use.
I lost to NSX with 2 stage 200 shot NOS system
would have been alot closer if I would have had 26" tires
my car
89 - 91 mazda rebuild stock block
Haltech E6K
GReddy FMIC
T04E
4 720 Injectors
RP comp pump
underdrive pullys
3" dp / mp
Apexi Dual N1
Apexi AVCR
I lost to NSX with 2 stage 200 shot NOS system
would have been alot closer if I would have had 26" tires
my car
89 - 91 mazda rebuild stock block
Haltech E6K
GReddy FMIC
T04E
4 720 Injectors
RP comp pump
underdrive pullys
3" dp / mp
Apexi Dual N1
Apexi AVCR
#9
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Thanks, but I'm going to go with the RP. What happens when I go over the 300. You can get 250+ with just intake, and exhaust work. I have a e6k coming in the mail, 1200cc secondaries, waiting on t04e, apex n1's, k&N filter, and some other misc. stuff. 300 is way to easy, and the durabilty of that walbro is up for questioning. Hey gnx7 who put that motor in. Is it a 3.8 turbo. What kind of mounts, or is there a kit for that conversion. I think that is a badass idea. Hey tony, nice ride.
#11
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (61)
its street car that got taken to the track. it run pefect around town.
the only thing I wish I would have done up front was
2 720
2 1600 injectors. that way I could have turned up the boost more and run low 11's and won that stinking $2500 the NSX guy got.
its got full interor AC and PS. I did have the ABS removed it was leaking like crazy.
I mainly built this car as daily driver/ road racer that goes to the drags now and then.
my next plans for this car is
half Bridge port
2 1600's
T66bb
larger wastegate
new manifold
fluidyne rad
some kinda monster elec fan
port and polish TB
re route my IC pipes (shorter)
cage
new LSD (mine is shot)
Line Lock
brake proporsing value
2mm seals are great!!
with a goal of 475 - 500 rwhp
the only thing I wish I would have done up front was
2 720
2 1600 injectors. that way I could have turned up the boost more and run low 11's and won that stinking $2500 the NSX guy got.
its got full interor AC and PS. I did have the ABS removed it was leaking like crazy.
I mainly built this car as daily driver/ road racer that goes to the drags now and then.
my next plans for this car is
half Bridge port
2 1600's
T66bb
larger wastegate
new manifold
fluidyne rad
some kinda monster elec fan
port and polish TB
re route my IC pipes (shorter)
cage
new LSD (mine is shot)
Line Lock
brake proporsing value
2mm seals are great!!
with a goal of 475 - 500 rwhp
#12
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
Assassin-
I put the 3.8i turbo in with the help of a friend and made the engine/trans mounts/intercooler piping/downpipe etc. Lots of work.... but looks stock with the hood closed and hauls *ss even with stock GN turbo (11.60's@114mph).
The Walbro works (is in hundreds of Turbo Buicks) and I've never had any reliability issues with mine or heard of any. It will easily support he HP you are looking for.
Might as well save the $$$ and spend it elsewhere.
GNX7
I put the 3.8i turbo in with the help of a friend and made the engine/trans mounts/intercooler piping/downpipe etc. Lots of work.... but looks stock with the hood closed and hauls *ss even with stock GN turbo (11.60's@114mph).
The Walbro works (is in hundreds of Turbo Buicks) and I've never had any reliability issues with mine or heard of any. It will easily support he HP you are looking for.
Might as well save the $$$ and spend it elsewhere.
GNX7
#13
Old [Sch|F]ool
hey 87GTR... you;ll probably want to kick my *** for pointing this out but you could've one against that NSX if you cut a decent light... his time was .217 quicker than you, but his R/T sucked (.782). 782 - 217 = 565... if your R/T was .564 or better you would have won the race.
And some people think drag racing is just mashing the throttle and holding on...
And some people think drag racing is just mashing the throttle and holding on...
Last edited by peejay; 04-26-02 at 02:12 PM.
#14
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (61)
and somepeople dont know they dont start your time until wheel trips that little light. hmmmmmmm thats how they get your reacation time.
they dont add that to your total time. you could wait 2 sec and your time that you run will only be started after you trip the lights
so ummmmm no I could not have beat him if I had better reaction time.
the reason I was slow on this reaction time it was my 3rd time on a pro tree. all lights come on at the same time.
I was used to .5 tree wear you lauch on when you see 2nd set of yellow come on. our at least that I did it in the past cutting some nice .550 lights
but at the near the end of the track i was pulling him in.
dang I wish we could have raced 1/2 mile. I was in 4th and the car was pulling hard.
Ari told me that if I had the 26 tires that I would have run a 11.4 or 11.5 cuase my trap speed was 117 I dont know how he got that but thats my story and Im sticking to it.......
they dont add that to your total time. you could wait 2 sec and your time that you run will only be started after you trip the lights
so ummmmm no I could not have beat him if I had better reaction time.
the reason I was slow on this reaction time it was my 3rd time on a pro tree. all lights come on at the same time.
I was used to .5 tree wear you lauch on when you see 2nd set of yellow come on. our at least that I did it in the past cutting some nice .550 lights
but at the near the end of the track i was pulling him in.
dang I wish we could have raced 1/2 mile. I was in 4th and the car was pulling hard.
Ari told me that if I had the 26 tires that I would have run a 11.4 or 11.5 cuase my trap speed was 117 I dont know how he got that but thats my story and Im sticking to it.......
Last edited by 87GTR; 04-26-02 at 02:33 PM.
#15
Old [Sch|F]ool
Right. And if you would have left earlier, you would have won.
Want more proof? Look where it says "Right 1st .493". That means, right lane won by .493sec.
Now subtract .493 from your R/T (1.058). What do you get... .565! So again, if your R/T was better than .565, you would have won.
Want more proof? Look where it says "Right 1st .493". That means, right lane won by .493sec.
Now subtract .493 from your R/T (1.058). What do you get... .565! So again, if your R/T was better than .565, you would have won.
#17
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This is why I love import drag racing....NO ONE has a clue how to race. They do account for your reaction time...think about what you said. Based on your theory you could leave when the other guy crosses the line and provided you *ran* faster then he did you win. NOT. They do have reaction times for a reason. They take your et...so 11.9 in your case then add on the reaction time (doesn't show up as your total et)...depending on the tree .400 pro or .500 sport being perfect. So if you would have cut a .400 (pro tree right?) light and ran an 11.9 you would have won because your reaction time was faster. This is how I lost in the semi's at norwalk...fell asleep at the tree...ran FASTER then the other guy but he won by .01 sec. In drag racing it's all in the reaction and the launch..then it's just holding on. So much money to be won off dumb import racers..wow.
#18
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Wow from fuel pumps to Ets. Anyways Tony 11.9 is fast as ****. No matter if the nsx beat you or not. By the way remeber he did spray, and you didn't. Hmm! Oh yea gnx7 the ride is sweet. Grand nationals alone are fast, and then to put the emphamise motor in a rx7. That's cool as ****. Thanks!
Nick
Nick
#19
Lives on the Forum
Since this wasn't in Japan, it would mean typical NHRA/IHRA drag rules...
ALL TIMERS START AT THE SAME TIME.
Your RT is calculated from the time the main timer starts to when you trip the LAST start line.  ET is calculated from the time you trip the LAST start like to when you trip the traps line at the top end.
peejay is right - with a quicker RT, you would've beat the NSX.
The WINNER of the RACE is the guy with the fastest RT + ET, without redlighting.  Didn't we just go over this in some other thread?  You could sit at the line all day (several minutes), rip a 4.56 ET and still lose to a 20-second Honda Accord with a .550 RT...
-Ted
ALL TIMERS START AT THE SAME TIME.
Your RT is calculated from the time the main timer starts to when you trip the LAST start line.  ET is calculated from the time you trip the LAST start like to when you trip the traps line at the top end.
peejay is right - with a quicker RT, you would've beat the NSX.
The WINNER of the RACE is the guy with the fastest RT + ET, without redlighting.  Didn't we just go over this in some other thread?  You could sit at the line all day (several minutes), rip a 4.56 ET and still lose to a 20-second Honda Accord with a .550 RT...
-Ted
#21
Old [Sch|F]ool
There's a Bosch pump that's supposed to kick *** too... I'll eventually go with that
BTW - I've beaten lots of quicker cars because of my R/T... that's how I kick *** at bracket racing - lots of people can't cut lights for ****, so I can go conservative on my dialin, cut a great light, and then back off after the 1000' mark and watch the other racer to make sure I'm always about 5 feet ahead... I don't break out, and it's great to see the pissed-off look on their faces as I beat them
BTW - I've beaten lots of quicker cars because of my R/T... that's how I kick *** at bracket racing - lots of people can't cut lights for ****, so I can go conservative on my dialin, cut a great light, and then back off after the 1000' mark and watch the other racer to make sure I'm always about 5 feet ahead... I don't break out, and it's great to see the pissed-off look on their faces as I beat them
#23
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (61)
Now that I have turned a simple post about a fuel pumps into a drag racing school post
so with my new found skilz I could have run an 11.4 if I cut a .550 light
1.058-.550=.508
11.910-.508=11.402
the MPH would stay the same?
and Ari said if I would have had 26" tires instead of 28" I would have run faster.
so on the stock ports with bolt ons and 26" tires the car has the potentical for low 11's ( if I dont sleep at the light again)
so this would mean my car made just over 392rwhp that day
that was using with me in the car its
2950lbs
11.402 ET
is my math right???
so with my new found skilz I could have run an 11.4 if I cut a .550 light
1.058-.550=.508
11.910-.508=11.402
the MPH would stay the same?
and Ari said if I would have had 26" tires instead of 28" I would have run faster.
so on the stock ports with bolt ons and 26" tires the car has the potentical for low 11's ( if I dont sleep at the light again)
so this would mean my car made just over 392rwhp that day
that was using with me in the car its
2950lbs
11.402 ET
is my math right???
Last edited by 87GTR; 04-26-02 at 09:50 PM.
#24
Lives on the Forum
Nah, you don't minus anything - it's just the winner is the one with the lowest RT + ET.  Your "run" was 11.9, but the time for your total "race" was 11.910 + 1.058 = 12.968.  By contrast, the NSX race time was 11.693 + 0.782 = 12.475.
The NSX won the "race" by 12.968 - 12.475 = 0.493 seconds.
If you had cut a...1.058 - 0.493 = 0.565 RT quicker, you would've won the "race" and technically "beat" the NSX on this run.
As a side note, I dunno what that track considers a "perfect RT."  A Sportsman tree (sequential yellow-yellow-yellow-green) will usually have a "perfect RT" of 0.500.  A Pro tree (all yellow-green) will usually have a "perfect RT" of 0.400.  Some tracks will dial-down your RT to not include these offsets which means a perfect RT of 0.000.  I'm assuming you were running a Sportsman tree with a perfect 0.500 with the RT not reset back to a 0.000 perfect RT...
A 0.565 RT is not that hard to do.  When I was drag racing a lot back in the day, I was cutting 0.55x RT's all night long - you just gotta get use to the light.
1.058 is awfully long to be sitting there at the start.  Were you distracted or first time drag racing?  Don't be embarassed - I did this too cause, like all newbies, I though you had to WAIT for the green light to come on - technically, this is not what you want to do.  After getting some advice from the "pro's" around the track, I figured out how to cut the perfect RT...
-Ted
The NSX won the "race" by 12.968 - 12.475 = 0.493 seconds.
If you had cut a...1.058 - 0.493 = 0.565 RT quicker, you would've won the "race" and technically "beat" the NSX on this run.
As a side note, I dunno what that track considers a "perfect RT."  A Sportsman tree (sequential yellow-yellow-yellow-green) will usually have a "perfect RT" of 0.500.  A Pro tree (all yellow-green) will usually have a "perfect RT" of 0.400.  Some tracks will dial-down your RT to not include these offsets which means a perfect RT of 0.000.  I'm assuming you were running a Sportsman tree with a perfect 0.500 with the RT not reset back to a 0.000 perfect RT...
A 0.565 RT is not that hard to do.  When I was drag racing a lot back in the day, I was cutting 0.55x RT's all night long - you just gotta get use to the light.
1.058 is awfully long to be sitting there at the start.  Were you distracted or first time drag racing?  Don't be embarassed - I did this too cause, like all newbies, I though you had to WAIT for the green light to come on - technically, this is not what you want to do.  After getting some advice from the "pro's" around the track, I figured out how to cut the perfect RT...
-Ted
#25
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (61)
ok that makes alot more scence about the time and RT.
the tree I ran tha day was Pro Tree .4 I was running in the quick 8. Ari's car broke and alex in the round before and he got taken out. no buy backs.
that day was 1st time I ran .4 tree. I was used to a .5 sports man tree.
the tree I ran tha day was Pro Tree .4 I was running in the quick 8. Ari's car broke and alex in the round before and he got taken out. no buy backs.
that day was 1st time I ran .4 tree. I was used to a .5 sports man tree.