Vert window regulator repair:non-cable
#26
Yeah, I've replaced 2 window regulators on 2 different verts cause the guides broke, this will be my 3rd regulator. My repair didn't go well. I broke the center spring tonight and either need to find a donor driver's side regulator for parts or simply replace it. Now I'll probably be replacing mine, but figured someone could learn from the work I put in. I started taking pics as a reference for myself when putting it back together...it led to me posting.
#28
Rotary $ > AMG $
iTrader: (7)
That is the part that I replaced with a pulley from the manual window regulator. Mine was completely broken off, not just that little tab. I don't know why they put a pulley on the manual and a slide on the vert, but if you replace the broken slide with a pulley, your trouble at that spot is gone. Mine is in the second year of it's new life. I have a second manual regulator that is in reserve for the future.
I don't have a pic of my regulator with the pulley attached, but I can provide a pic of the manual regulator for your reference.
Last edited by jackhild59; 04-14-08 at 06:53 AM.
#29
Jeff-
That is the part that I replaced with a pulley from the manual window regulator. Mine was completely broken off, not just that little tab. I don't know why they put a pulley on the manual and a slide on the vert, but if you replace the broken slide with a pulley, your trouble at that spot is gone. Mine is in the second year of it's new life. I have a second manual regulator that is in reserve for the future.
I don't have a pic of my regulator with the pulley attached, but I can provide a pic of the manual regulator for your reference.
That is the part that I replaced with a pulley from the manual window regulator. Mine was completely broken off, not just that little tab. I don't know why they put a pulley on the manual and a slide on the vert, but if you replace the broken slide with a pulley, your trouble at that spot is gone. Mine is in the second year of it's new life. I have a second manual regulator that is in reserve for the future.
I don't have a pic of my regulator with the pulley attached, but I can provide a pic of the manual regulator for your reference.
#30
Just finished mine
Everything works great.,
I had to regroove the inner plastic spool with a coping saw, and then clean it with a brass brush.
Getting the cable lengths correct was tricky. Especially the black one, but i just started out long then cut it down.
The hardest part of this was that i wasnt the one who dissassembled the whole thing, i got the parts in a box when i bought the car from the previous owner.
Now i'm figuring out how the whole assembly goes back in the door and how to mount the window glass.
Thanks for all the help with the pictures and that guide was a great reference.
All said about 6 hours and 20 bucks to rebuild, and a good lesson learned in case the passenger side would go.
-chief-
I had to regroove the inner plastic spool with a coping saw, and then clean it with a brass brush.
Getting the cable lengths correct was tricky. Especially the black one, but i just started out long then cut it down.
The hardest part of this was that i wasnt the one who dissassembled the whole thing, i got the parts in a box when i bought the car from the previous owner.
Now i'm figuring out how the whole assembly goes back in the door and how to mount the window glass.
Thanks for all the help with the pictures and that guide was a great reference.
All said about 6 hours and 20 bucks to rebuild, and a good lesson learned in case the passenger side would go.
-chief-
#31
Everything works great.,
I had to regroove the inner plastic spool with a coping saw, and then clean it with a brass brush.
Getting the cable lengths correct was tricky. Especially the black one, but i just started out long then cut it down.
The hardest part of this was that i wasnt the one who dissassembled the whole thing, i got the parts in a box when i bought the car from the previous owner.
Now i'm figuring out how the whole assembly goes back in the door and how to mount the window glass.
Thanks for all the help with the pictures and that guide was a great reference.
All said about 6 hours and 20 bucks to rebuild, and a good lesson learned in case the passenger side would go.
-chief-
I had to regroove the inner plastic spool with a coping saw, and then clean it with a brass brush.
Getting the cable lengths correct was tricky. Especially the black one, but i just started out long then cut it down.
The hardest part of this was that i wasnt the one who dissassembled the whole thing, i got the parts in a box when i bought the car from the previous owner.
Now i'm figuring out how the whole assembly goes back in the door and how to mount the window glass.
Thanks for all the help with the pictures and that guide was a great reference.
All said about 6 hours and 20 bucks to rebuild, and a good lesson learned in case the passenger side would go.
-chief-
#32
Well alls well that ends well....
When i put the window in the added stress on the cable resulted in the cable stay pulling off the end of the gray cable.
After another crimping and grinding session i reinstalled, tested. The again when the window was put in place and the window was put up, same cable same result.
Once again I disassembled, and removed from the door. The cable keeps getting shorter as i have to cut the end slightly to get it straight enough to fit in the new cable stay. This time I ground the end with the dremel again, and removed any grease and i heated the cable stay before i crimped it. Once crimped i reassembled and installed into the door.
I tested with the window installed and it seems to be holding and acutually working very well.
So anyone facing a similar rebuild, make sure the cable stays or whatever you are using are really clean and crimped well, maybe try heating slightly as I did.
Again, thanks for everyone's posts, I couldn't have done it without them.
-chief-
When i put the window in the added stress on the cable resulted in the cable stay pulling off the end of the gray cable.
After another crimping and grinding session i reinstalled, tested. The again when the window was put in place and the window was put up, same cable same result.
Once again I disassembled, and removed from the door. The cable keeps getting shorter as i have to cut the end slightly to get it straight enough to fit in the new cable stay. This time I ground the end with the dremel again, and removed any grease and i heated the cable stay before i crimped it. Once crimped i reassembled and installed into the door.
I tested with the window installed and it seems to be holding and acutually working very well.
So anyone facing a similar rebuild, make sure the cable stays or whatever you are using are really clean and crimped well, maybe try heating slightly as I did.
Again, thanks for everyone's posts, I couldn't have done it without them.
-chief-
#33
Just a couple notes on the write-up... I used the instructions as above with two exceptions...
1) For the guides that were broken on mine, I used nylon window rollers (got em at ace for about 3bucks each) they have a molded in bearing, threaded collar and a short screw to attach them, worked PERFECTLY and VERY smooth... windows go up and down rather quickly and smoothly.
2) For the cable stops, instead of trying to swag ferrules on the cable, I used silver solder. I 'tinned' the end of the cable, then made a quick 'mold' by drilling a 1/4" hole in a scrap of wood about 1/4 inch deep, made a shallow groove in the wood for the cable and filled the hole with silver solder. A little light trimming with the dremmel tool gave me an end that looked nearly identical to the factory end. And I haven't been able to pull it off (I made a test end on a scrap of cable, put it in a vise and put vise-grips on it and pulled, pried, and wrenched it around trying to make it fail... it didn't.
Hope my methocs give others some ideas for their repairs!!
1) For the guides that were broken on mine, I used nylon window rollers (got em at ace for about 3bucks each) they have a molded in bearing, threaded collar and a short screw to attach them, worked PERFECTLY and VERY smooth... windows go up and down rather quickly and smoothly.
2) For the cable stops, instead of trying to swag ferrules on the cable, I used silver solder. I 'tinned' the end of the cable, then made a quick 'mold' by drilling a 1/4" hole in a scrap of wood about 1/4 inch deep, made a shallow groove in the wood for the cable and filled the hole with silver solder. A little light trimming with the dremmel tool gave me an end that looked nearly identical to the factory end. And I haven't been able to pull it off (I made a test end on a scrap of cable, put it in a vise and put vise-grips on it and pulled, pried, and wrenched it around trying to make it fail... it didn't.
Hope my methocs give others some ideas for their repairs!!
#34
Driving RX7's since 1979
iTrader: (43)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
Posts: 6,096
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Received 8 Likes
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Just a couple notes on the write-up... I used the instructions as above with two exceptions...
1) For the guides that were broken on mine, I used nylon window rollers (got em at ace for about 3bucks each) they have a molded in bearing, threaded collar and a short screw to attach them, worked PERFECTLY and VERY smooth... windows go up and down rather quickly and smoothly.
2) For the cable stops, instead of trying to swag ferrules on the cable, I used silver solder. I 'tinned' the end of the cable, then made a quick 'mold' by drilling a 1/4" hole in a scrap of wood about 1/4 inch deep, made a shallow groove in the wood for the cable and filled the hole with silver solder. A little light trimming with the dremmel tool gave me an end that looked nearly identical to the factory end. And I haven't been able to pull it off (I made a test end on a scrap of cable, put it in a vise and put vise-grips on it and pulled, pried, and wrenched it around trying to make it fail... it didn't.
Hope my methocs give others some ideas for their repairs!!
1) For the guides that were broken on mine, I used nylon window rollers (got em at ace for about 3bucks each) they have a molded in bearing, threaded collar and a short screw to attach them, worked PERFECTLY and VERY smooth... windows go up and down rather quickly and smoothly.
2) For the cable stops, instead of trying to swag ferrules on the cable, I used silver solder. I 'tinned' the end of the cable, then made a quick 'mold' by drilling a 1/4" hole in a scrap of wood about 1/4 inch deep, made a shallow groove in the wood for the cable and filled the hole with silver solder. A little light trimming with the dremmel tool gave me an end that looked nearly identical to the factory end. And I haven't been able to pull it off (I made a test end on a scrap of cable, put it in a vise and put vise-grips on it and pulled, pried, and wrenched it around trying to make it fail... it didn't.
Hope my methocs give others some ideas for their repairs!!
#36
Driving RX7's since 1979
iTrader: (43)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
I did email the guy in New York who repairs regulators to see if he would sell the replacement guides separately, and a big fat nope in response. IN update, he now charges something like $120 to do the repair. So about a push in cost to get a used replacement, but in a cost tie probably still a better alternative to have him do a rebuild.
Still, since my cables are in fine shape I'd like to try and salvage them as is. So surfing a little more I learned that Dyson makes replacement window regulators for RX7's where the guide they use looks identical to what is on the Vert regulators. So I shot them an email tonight to see if I could get that part separately from them. Not holding my breath, but do have my fingers crossed.
#37
Rotary $ > AMG $
iTrader: (7)
Jeff-
That is the part that I replaced with a pulley from the manual window regulator. Mine was completely broken off, not just that little tab. I don't know why they put a pulley on the manual and a slide on the vert, but if you replace the broken slide with a pulley, your trouble at that spot is gone. Mine is in the second year of it's new life. I have a second manual regulator that is in reserve for the future.
I don't have a pic of my regulator with the pulley attached, but I can provide a pic of the manual regulator for your reference.
That is the part that I replaced with a pulley from the manual window regulator. Mine was completely broken off, not just that little tab. I don't know why they put a pulley on the manual and a slide on the vert, but if you replace the broken slide with a pulley, your trouble at that spot is gone. Mine is in the second year of it's new life. I have a second manual regulator that is in reserve for the future.
I don't have a pic of my regulator with the pulley attached, but I can provide a pic of the manual regulator for your reference.
BTW, not only are my regulators still perfect, the dog is currently sitting in my lap as I type.
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