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vert chassis brace on fc3s?

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Old 06-16-05, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bukwild
yeah I have a 3inch dp from rx7.com and the 3inch DP/MP combo is visibly larger. I didn't even think it was going to fit. Thuder fab measures their 3 inches from the inside of the pipe and the others are measuring the diameter of the outside is 3 inches. So the pipe most sell is really 2.5 and if its not mandrel bent its less. I will get a few pics of it and post them. Don't be fooled by BS from these rx7 companies that have not improved their designs in 10 plus years
I have yet to see exhaust piping made with 1/4" thick steel. Yea I agree that some people sell the piping by the complete diameter. But the difference wont be noticeable. I have a custom 3" exhaust turbo back. and it doesnt hit my subframe brace.

O and remove that brace from the vert and forget about doing faster than 70, your vert will be all over the place.
Old 06-16-05, 01:38 PM
  #27  
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I also notice my convertable is much more stable on turns, way more stable then even my GXL.


I think it's a good idea, and if you do it, please post your findings.
Old 06-16-05, 03:36 PM
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OK, I looked under our EProd 'vert and the under construction coupe. The vert's main cross member has extra mounting points added to it for the extra cross member and it also has extra mounting points on the chassis.
Old 06-16-05, 06:47 PM
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think its possible to tap some holes to make it bolt up?
Old 06-16-05, 07:55 PM
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No, you would have to add brackets of some sort and weld those to the floor. The brace is actually about 2" lower than the floor pan(its right in front of the curve up to the firewall) and they built a pretty serious mount to spread the load. Same thing with the main x-member, it mounts just inboard of the rear control arm mounts with some hefty metal add-ons. It would take some welding and some good imagineering but it could be done. IMO there are better ways to accomplish stiffening without going to all that trouble.

If you have a vert main x-member though your job would be more than half done. You would have the correct mounts for the front and they would line up the piece to place your rear mounts.

The metal they used for the mounts is close to 1/8" thick so they expected it to do some work.
Old 06-16-05, 10:23 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Don't forget the sway bars. They are the stiffest of any FC.
Originally Posted by TurboIIGuy
True...........Take a micrometer to the sway bars of a convertible and then take the micrometer to the sway bars of a TurboII...................The covertible has thicker sway bars...............
True and Factual


86-88 Vert and Coupe

Front sway bar has 2 options: 22 or 24mm

Rear Sway Bar has only one: 13mm

The 86-88 RX-7's have 2 different front sway bars, but the size of the bar is not dependent on whether or not the car is a vert or a coupe. All 86-88 RX-7's have 13mm rear sway bar.


89-91 Vert and Coupe

Front sway bar has only one: 24mm

Rear sway bar has 3 options: 14 or 12mm on coupes, 12mm on verts.

All 89-91 RX-7's have a 24mm front sway bar. Some of the 89-91 RX-7's coupes have 14mm or 12mm rear sway bars, while all 89-91 verts have a 12mm rear sway bar.

Last edited by bigdv519; 06-16-05 at 10:26 PM.
Old 06-16-05, 10:43 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by TurboIIGuy
interesting...............Convertible parts into a hardtop for stiffening..........Why not just install a front lower arm bar and a triangulated strut to firewall brace. Like the one from mazdatrix or CpRacing?????
That adds a whole lotta stiff with seemingly no weight. Maybe 5 pounds max.
are you kidding that cp racing bar probably weights 20lbs.
Old 06-17-05, 09:01 AM
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^ no kidding, i have the cp front and rear strut bars. probably 20-25 pounds total, but deffinately worth it though they are very solid.
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