The V-Mount has begun!
I always thought the V-mount orientation was the opposite of the one you have showing, like < <---air , instead of > <---air. (> or < would be the radiator/intercooling orientation with the right side as the front of the car). Is the reason why the orientation is what it is 1. ease of installation and 2. turbulence in the incoming air?
Sorry if this question seems dumb, but that's just how I always saw it.
Sorry if this question seems dumb, but that's just how I always saw it.
Originally Posted by Jaiyurai
WOW... now this is really unexpected. I've been wondering why you haven't been calling me recently. I see why now. I guess there will be two VMIC FCs in Arizona. Me in Phoenix and you in Tucson. Good luck with everything. I know Ryan is going to do an awesome job on the fabbing.
My VMIC -
My new Panasports!
ey, you'll be hearing from me soon about your suspension.
My VMIC -
My new Panasports!
ey, you'll be hearing from me soon about your suspension.
we need more pics of your ride
What are the specs on those wheels?
Originally Posted by Roen
I always thought the V-mount orientation was the opposite of the one you have showing, like < <---air , instead of > <---air. (> or < would be the radiator/intercooling orientation with the right side as the front of the car). Is the reason why the orientation is what it is 1. ease of installation and 2. turbulence in the incoming air?
Sorry if this question seems dumb, but that's just how I always saw it.
Sorry if this question seems dumb, but that's just how I always saw it.
Good work non the less!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,093
Likes: 2
From: Hood River oregon
Yeah, there seems to be the same debate raging on AZRX7. So in the interest of peace, I have started calling it the "Shook" mount, and here is a diagram of roughly what it will entail:
Originally Posted by slpin
are you going to run a NA waterpump housing?
So we're going with Shook-mount now, eh? Because its not technically a "vertical-mount" setup. Something comepletely different. I guess when your setup is finished, then both you and I will have to get together to dial in temps. I'd like to see what kind of oil and water temps we get with our different setups.
KNONFS, my wheels are 17x8.5+17 front and 17x9.5+17 rear..
sorry for thread hijacking Jrat.
j-rat. i'm sure you dont care about my opinion on this, but it looks like you need that radiator the other way, then just make an underbelly tray that stops after the oil cooler, and leave the bottom side of the radiator open. the air underneath the car will suck the air through the radiator. i'm not sure how this would affect the IC, but it would work great for the radiator...
Originally Posted by J-Rat
Not sure what you mean by that, but I am keeping the TII waterpump housing.
the NA waterpump housing doesnt have that water nipple behind the lower radiator hose (you know, the one for the stock watercooler turbo), so it looks cleaner than capping it off.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,093
Likes: 2
From: Hood River oregon
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
j-rat. i'm sure you dont care about my opinion on this, but it looks like you need that radiator the other way, then just make an underbelly tray that stops after the oil cooler, and leave the bottom side of the radiator open. the air underneath the car will suck the air through the radiator. i'm not sure how this would affect the IC, but it would work great for the radiator...
Jake,
This is a design by Ryan Shook. I cant speak intelligently on wether or not it will work, because I am not the designer/fabricator, so lets hear it from him:
The angle of attack relative to the incoming air is really unimportant if there is enough room for the air to turn. The basic idea of why it works is that there is a large volume to fill before the air can begin to revert around the nose of the car if you have say 32 t-buck with no readiator shroud the faster the car goes the amount of air going THROUGH the radiator acctually decreases. Along with the increased volume of air and the a proper under tray, the low pressure area under neith the car at speed begins to, effectively suck air out of the engine bay, and againg with proper ducting the only place it "suck" air from is the back of the readiator. So now you have a large volume of high pressure air in front and a low pressure area behind.
The intercooler has the same sort of high pressure area in front but uses the low pressure area on top of the hood to "suck" the air through.
The reason for mounting the intercooler and radiator in this fashion is so that they are not competing for the same imediate volume of air. The situation can arise that the air flow through radiator can be drasticlly reduced by the low pressure area over the intercooler , using the typical V-mount setup. For the most part the people using the typical setup are not running the car long enough at high speeds and sustained high loads to experience the down sides to their setups.
The intercooler has the same sort of high pressure area in front but uses the low pressure area on top of the hood to "suck" the air through.
The reason for mounting the intercooler and radiator in this fashion is so that they are not competing for the same imediate volume of air. The situation can arise that the air flow through radiator can be drasticlly reduced by the low pressure area over the intercooler , using the typical V-mount setup. For the most part the people using the typical setup are not running the car long enough at high speeds and sustained high loads to experience the down sides to their setups.
Last edited by J-Rat; Apr 26, 2006 at 03:40 PM.
Not that my opinion matters either...but I got a question.
Even if you could duct the air properly to the intercooler, do you think the small duct (calculated by A x B) would cool you intercooler enough to make the power that your going after.
Even if you could duct the air properly to the intercooler, do you think the small duct (calculated by A x B) would cool you intercooler enough to make the power that your going after.
Originally Posted by bigdv519
Not that my opinion matters either...but I got a question.
Even if you could duct the air properly to the intercooler, do you think the small duct (calculated by A x B) would cool you intercooler enough to make the power that your going after.
Even if you could duct the air properly to the intercooler, do you think the small duct (calculated by A x B) would cool you intercooler enough to make the power that your going after.
Optimally you should have an opening for the air of around 20% smaller than the core face area of the intercooler. You'll get really good flow this way and much better than just placing the whole intercooler in the airstream end tanks and all like most people do.
Originally Posted by rotarygod
Optimally you should have an opening for the air of around 20% smaller than the core face area of the intercooler. You'll get really good flow this way and much better than just placing the whole intercooler in the airstream end tanks and all like most people do.
Edit: Ryans' explanation of this orientation is summed up into, creating 2 seperate air paths. The low pressure areas, (above the intercooler, and under the car) become imbalanced at high speed/load. So the answer is to create 2 seprate air paths, so the pressure in front of the intercooler doesn't become too low as compared to the pressure in front of the radiator, so air can remain constant between the 2.
My point is, this is still possible to accomplish with a standard v-mount setup, with arguably less restriction to both.
But your running meth, so your cheating. :-D
j/p
Last edited by bigdv519; Apr 28, 2006 at 10:30 AM.
Rotary Freak
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 0
From: Okinawa, Japan
I wish I could get a guy like Ryan to work on my FC. 
Words of advice:
1) If he can visualize it, he can do it. It's that simple. Don't worry about what has to be done to get it done because he can do it. If there is any worries about cutting and what not then don't worry. It'll be OK.
2) Hook him up with a FAT gift certificate to Starbucks and/or Home Depot to keep him going. That....and some Mountain Dew.
Words of advice:
1) If he can visualize it, he can do it. It's that simple. Don't worry about what has to be done to get it done because he can do it. If there is any worries about cutting and what not then don't worry. It'll be OK.
2) Hook him up with a FAT gift certificate to Starbucks and/or Home Depot to keep him going. That....and some Mountain Dew.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,093
Likes: 2
From: Hood River oregon
Originally Posted by Jerk_Racer
I wish I could get a guy like Ryan to work on my FC.
Words of advice:
1) If he can visualize it, he can do it. It's that simple. Don't worry about what has to be done to get it done because he can do it. If there is any worries about cutting and what not then don't worry. It'll be OK.
2) Hook him up with a FAT gift certificate to Starbucks and/or Home Depot to keep him going. That....and some Mountain Dew.
Words of advice:
1) If he can visualize it, he can do it. It's that simple. Don't worry about what has to be done to get it done because he can do it. If there is any worries about cutting and what not then don't worry. It'll be OK.
2) Hook him up with a FAT gift certificate to Starbucks and/or Home Depot to keep him going. That....and some Mountain Dew.
LOL!! Ryan is well taken care of by me when he is working on my car. I have learned that keeping your fabricator happy is as paramout as keeping your girlfriend happy..
And I agree, some of the things he whips out are pretty incredible. You have no idea what he has cooked up for the ducting. The man is pretty crazy! He is really into this project, and has some inbelievable ideas. I think once the project is done, alot of people will become believers. Wont be too much work getting done today though, its Ryans birthday tomorrow, so I am getting him drunk tonight..
