UV Dye Ester Oil OK for A/C Compressor Flushing?
08-25-09, 05:22 PM
#26
The Red Flash
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: texas
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one more thing I didnt see if you were putting on a new compressor or not but my first problem with mine was leaking out of the front of the comp. inside the clutch area. So lucky me I had another one just removed.
helps to test charge with nitrogen. will help remove any moisture. and help with finding leaks.
what a pain to work on! i have tried 3 times and not quite there yet. so good luck..
helps to test charge with nitrogen. will help remove any moisture. and help with finding leaks.
what a pain to work on! i have tried 3 times and not quite there yet. so good luck..
08-25-09, 05:28 PM
#27
Im pretty sure its either the high side or the evaporator that has a leak. Cuz thats the only part that I touched ...
It wont hold any vacuum, its all gone in 5 seconds.
Now Im wondering if I can use those 134a with UV dye, plug it into the low port, turn the car & compressor on to find the leaks. it wont fry my compressor right ?
08-25-09, 05:29 PM
#28
one more thing I didnt see if you were putting on a new compressor or not but my first problem with mine was leaking out of the front of the comp. inside the clutch area. So lucky me I had another one just removed.
helps to test charge with nitrogen. will help remove any moisture. and help with finding leaks.
what a pain to work on! i have tried 3 times and not quite there yet. so good luck..
helps to test charge with nitrogen. will help remove any moisture. and help with finding leaks.
what a pain to work on! i have tried 3 times and not quite there yet. so good luck..
then I trace it all the way to the high pressure side, so I replaced the tube. then now it has a HUGE leak that wont even hold vacuum for 5 seconds.
I think I might swap the thing back to the old one tomorrow morning and see what happens.
08-25-09, 05:40 PM
#30
The Red Flash
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mineal oil and ester oil do not mix... ever.. the differant refrigerants carry around different oils if you have the wrong oil in the system with the wrong refrigerant it wont work and you could burn out your compressor. you can use the 134 with leak check but sounds like your compressor allready had the ester oil in it.so no big deal unless your going to final charge with r12 and your system is contaminated.
08-25-09, 06:49 PM
#31
I got all mineral stuff out already.
I tested the A/C when it still had a "small leak". the compressor works and turns on, I had a can of 134a with UV dye. it charged in. its "a little but cool" but hey it had a leak ...
then I took the high line out and ... you know the rest of the story.
Gonna buy another 1-2 cans of the UV dye, I want to know if its the lines or o-rings thats leaking, if not, its probably the evaporator core.
I tested the A/C when it still had a "small leak". the compressor works and turns on, I had a can of 134a with UV dye. it charged in. its "a little but cool" but hey it had a leak ...
then I took the high line out and ... you know the rest of the story.
Gonna buy another 1-2 cans of the UV dye, I want to know if its the lines or o-rings thats leaking, if not, its probably the evaporator core.
08-25-09, 08:27 PM
#34
Ok, you need to pressurize the system slightly with maybe 5-10 psi. You could use some generic R134a or my favorite spray duster, http://www.web-tronics.com/12sudu1524.html- used to clean electronics, keyboards etc. Use that side-can tap to tap the duster. 
Add 50% dishwashing soap to 50% water and put it in a spray bottle. Squirt this on all your lines, connections etc. You will get lots of bubbles at the leak. Fix the leaks, move on.
And FYI-that duster 152 is the next generation automotive A/C refrigerant that will be replacing R134a. Less than 1/10th the global warming potential, lower head pressures, higher energy efficiency, compatible with all 134a oils etc. It makes a really nice R12 replacement too. Really.
Add 50% dishwashing soap to 50% water and put it in a spray bottle. Squirt this on all your lines, connections etc. You will get lots of bubbles at the leak. Fix the leaks, move on.
And FYI-that duster 152 is the next generation automotive A/C refrigerant that will be replacing R134a. Less than 1/10th the global warming potential, lower head pressures, higher energy efficiency, compatible with all 134a oils etc. It makes a really nice R12 replacement too. Really.
08-25-09, 08:36 PM
#35
Ok, you need to pressurize the system slightly with maybe 5-10 psi. You could use some generic R134a or my favorite spray duster, http://www.web-tronics.com/12sudu1524.html- used to clean electronics, keyboards etc. Use that side-can tap to tap the duster.
Add 50% dishwashing soap to 50% water and put it in a spray bottle. Squirt this on all your lines, connections etc. You will get lots of bubbles at the leak. Fix the leaks, move on.
And FYI-that duster 152 is the next generation automotive A/C refrigerant that will be replacing R134a. Less than 1/10th the global warming potential, lower head pressures, higher energy efficiency, compatible with all 134a oils etc. It makes a really nice R12 replacement too. Really.
Add 50% dishwashing soap to 50% water and put it in a spray bottle. Squirt this on all your lines, connections etc. You will get lots of bubbles at the leak. Fix the leaks, move on.
And FYI-that duster 152 is the next generation automotive A/C refrigerant that will be replacing R134a. Less than 1/10th the global warming potential, lower head pressures, higher energy efficiency, compatible with all 134a oils etc. It makes a really nice R12 replacement too. Really.
hmm, Im just gonna get some cheap R134a at Autozone. use it to build pressure to find the leak.
Thanks.
08-25-09, 08:50 PM
#37
mineal oil and ester oil do not mix... ever.. the differant refrigerants carry around different oils if you have the wrong oil in the system with the wrong refrigerant it wont work and you could burn out your compressor. you can use the 134 with leak check but sounds like your compressor allready had the ester oil in it.so no big deal unless your going to final charge with r12 and your system is contaminated.
Ester and mineral are compatible.
PAG and mineral oil are not compatible.
Ester is compatible with both R134a and R12 (and R152a
). Mineral oil is compatible only with R12 (for auto A/C purposes).
PAG is totally incompatible with R12 but is compatible with R134a and R152a
.
08-26-09, 02:11 PM
#41
Found the leak.
its actually, LEAKS.
3 leaks found.
one by the thermo switch after the drier.
the other one is on the low side of the condenser tube. -_-
Lucky I got another condenser from forum member in advance, problem is the high side plastic tube have a problem too. need to order parts -_-
its actually, LEAKS.
3 leaks found.
one by the thermo switch after the drier.
the other one is on the low side of the condenser tube. -_-
Lucky I got another condenser from forum member in advance, problem is the high side plastic tube have a problem too. need to order parts -_-
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