UV Dye Ester Oil OK for A/C Compressor Flushing?
08-18-09, 01:28 PM
#1
UV Dye Ester Oil OK for A/C Compressor Flushing?
Thats the only Ester oil I can find locally, Autozone's Ester 100 oil with UV Dye.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...randName=Quest
Wonder if its a good thing to use them for flushing and permanent A/C Oil.
and when I get the new A/C Drier, I need to pour a few oz of oil into it ? right ?
the old drier I yank out were empty. nothing was in it, not even a tiny bit of mineral oil. good ? bad ?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...randName=Quest
Wonder if its a good thing to use them for flushing and permanent A/C Oil.
and when I get the new A/C Drier, I need to pour a few oz of oil into it ? right ?
the old drier I yank out were empty. nothing was in it, not even a tiny bit of mineral oil. good ? bad ?
08-18-09, 04:29 PM
#2
Thats the only Ester oil I can find locally, Autozone's Ester 100 oil with UV Dye.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...randName=Quest
Wonder if its a good thing to use them for flushing and permanent A/C Oil.
and when I get the new A/C Drier, I need to pour a few oz of oil into it ? right ?
the old drier I yank out were empty. nothing was in it, not even a tiny bit of mineral oil. good ? bad ?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...randName=Quest
Wonder if its a good thing to use them for flushing and permanent A/C Oil.
and when I get the new A/C Drier, I need to pour a few oz of oil into it ? right ?
the old drier I yank out were empty. nothing was in it, not even a tiny bit of mineral oil. good ? bad ?
If you must order online do this- https://www.ackits.com/pc/41-50062-8...8+Ounce+Bottle)
08-18-09, 06:54 PM
#3
Dye is ok. but...I wouldn't order that bottle online from Autozone. The pretty picture says Ester but the description on the part number says PAG. Pick it up in person so you can verify what you are getting.
If you must order online do this- https://www.ackits.com/pc/41-50062-8...8+Ounce+Bottle)
If you must order online do this- https://www.ackits.com/pc/41-50062-8...8+Ounce+Bottle)
08-18-09, 09:11 PM
#4
UV dye oil is absolutely ok to use. At my shop that's all we use. Just check the FSM and make sure it calls for ester oil and not PAG. And check it also to see how much oil is required. You may not get any out of the dryer, but that doesn't mean there's not any in there. Just use common sense, and put in as much as you think you got out. If you want to do the job properly, you'll flush the lines with brake cleaner and compressed air, being EXTREMELY careful to get all the cleaner out. Then reassemble the ac system, draw a vacuum on it (you can get a vacuum pump at Harbor Freight) for at least an hour, I like leaving it at a vacuum overnight. THEN once all that's done, charge it with the recommended amount of refrigerant and oil (because you flushed the system, you removed all the oil).
Simple, really
Simple, really
08-18-09, 11:56 PM
#5
UV dye oil is absolutely ok to use. At my shop that's all we use. Just check the FSM and make sure it calls for ester oil and not PAG. And check it also to see how much oil is required. You may not get any out of the dryer, but that doesn't mean there's not any in there. Just use common sense, and put in as much as you think you got out. If you want to do the job properly, you'll flush the lines with brake cleaner and compressed air, being EXTREMELY careful to get all the cleaner out. Then reassemble the ac system, draw a vacuum on it (you can get a vacuum pump at Harbor Freight) for at least an hour, I like leaving it at a vacuum overnight. THEN once all that's done, charge it with the recommended amount of refrigerant and oil (because you flushed the system, you removed all the oil).
Simple, really
Simple, really
am I doing it right ?
08-19-09, 12:16 AM
#6
Im thinking to go get maybe 24 oz of Ester oil Tomorrow, use 16 oz to flush the compressor. Get another bottle of "A/C System Flush solvent" like THIS to flush the Condenser, get the A/C Drier, pour maybe couple oz of these ester oil into it, then put every thing back together, pull a DEEP vacuum with my Robinair vacuum pump for maybe 2-3 hours. then I just fill it up with Freeze 12.
am I doing it right ?
am I doing it right ?
Make sure that when you hook up the Freeze12 you bleed air from the line from the can to the manifold. It will be full of air and you don't want that air in the system. Hook up the can tap, tap the can, release some refrigerant into the hose. Then loosen the hose at the manifold until a little freeze12 comes out. Tighten the hose . Now charge into your system. First part of the first can should go into the vacuum with the car off. Then when it won't take more, start the car, start the ac and charge away.
Good luck!
08-19-09, 11:28 AM
#7
Just make sure that the vacuum holds. Pull the vacuum and hold it on the system for say one hour. Now turn off the handles to the manifold, turn off the pump. If the needle on the gauge doesn't move after 30 min or so, you are tight.
Make sure that when you hook up the Freeze12 you bleed air from the line from the can to the manifold. It will be full of air and you don't want that air in the system. Hook up the can tap, tap the can, release some refrigerant into the hose. Then loosen the hose at the manifold until a little freeze12 comes out. Tighten the hose . Now charge into your system. First part of the first can should go into the vacuum with the car off. Then when it won't take more, start the car, start the ac and charge away.
Good luck!
Make sure that when you hook up the Freeze12 you bleed air from the line from the can to the manifold. It will be full of air and you don't want that air in the system. Hook up the can tap, tap the can, release some refrigerant into the hose. Then loosen the hose at the manifold until a little freeze12 comes out. Tighten the hose . Now charge into your system. First part of the first can should go into the vacuum with the car off. Then when it won't take more, start the car, start the ac and charge away.
Good luck!
I took some A/C lines off this morning, Hmm it looks pretty clean, should I just leave them ? or should I pour some of those cleaner thru them and use my air blow gun to blow them all out ?
Also, Damn, it looks like its going to be a bitch to try to yank that compressor off, the belts are not hard. the hardest part is how many bolts are on the compressor itself? seems like there is only 3 ? and its kinda rusty ... if I cant get it off, how am I going to flush the compressor ? -_-
(still waiting for the Drier to go to the Autozone ...)
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08-19-09, 12:28 PM
#8
Got it
I took some A/C lines off this morning, Hmm it looks pretty clean, should I just leave them ? or should I pour some of those cleaner thru them and use my air blow gun to blow them all out ?
Also, Damn, it looks like its going to be a bitch to try to yank that compressor off, the belts are not hard. the hardest part is how many bolts are on the compressor itself? seems like there is only 3 ? and its kinda rusty ... if I cant get it off, how am I going to flush the compressor ? -_-
(still waiting for the Drier to go to the Autozone ...)
I took some A/C lines off this morning, Hmm it looks pretty clean, should I just leave them ? or should I pour some of those cleaner thru them and use my air blow gun to blow them all out ?
Also, Damn, it looks like its going to be a bitch to try to yank that compressor off, the belts are not hard. the hardest part is how many bolts are on the compressor itself? seems like there is only 3 ? and its kinda rusty ... if I cant get it off, how am I going to flush the compressor ? -_-
(still waiting for the Drier to go to the Autozone ...)
08-19-09, 07:56 PM
#9
But whatever you do, make sure you flush out your evaporator and condenser and blow it dry with the air gun. That's where the money is... or as I like to call it, the black death. Also, if there's an orifice tube, replace it. Those things have a metal screen on them that catches crap and can really hamper AC performance. One more note: don't take the caps off the dryer until you're ready to seal the system and draw a vacuum.
08-20-09, 05:22 AM
#10
Use a cleaner of some sort. Brake cleaner always works for me, but your specialized high-dollar AC flush probably works too. But whatever you do, make sure you flush out your evaporator and condenser and blow it dry with the air gun. That's where the money is... or as I like to call it, the black death. Also, if there's an orifice tube, replace it. Those things have a metal screen on them that catches crap and can really hamper AC performance. One more note: don't take the caps off the dryer until you're ready to seal the system and draw a vacuum.
But whatever you do, make sure you flush out your evaporator and condenser and blow it dry with the air gun. That's where the money is... or as I like to call it, the black death. Also, if there's an orifice tube, replace it. Those things have a metal screen on them that catches crap and can really hamper AC performance. One more note: don't take the caps off the dryer until you're ready to seal the system and draw a vacuum.
08-20-09, 09:04 AM
#11
Use a cleaner of some sort. Brake cleaner always works for me, but your specialized high-dollar AC flush probably works too. But whatever you do, make sure you flush out your evaporator and condenser and blow it dry with the air gun. That's where the money is... or as I like to call it, the black death. Also, if there's an orifice tube, replace it. Those things have a metal screen on them that catches crap and can really hamper AC performance. One more note: don't take the caps off the dryer until you're ready to seal the system and draw a vacuum.
But whatever you do, make sure you flush out your evaporator and condenser and blow it dry with the air gun. That's where the money is... or as I like to call it, the black death. Also, if there's an orifice tube, replace it. Those things have a metal screen on them that catches crap and can really hamper AC performance. One more note: don't take the caps off the dryer until you're ready to seal the system and draw a vacuum.I wont open the dryer until the very last minute
Damn those bolts are all rusted ... this is going to be fun
08-21-09, 03:13 PM
#12
Spent an hour something to yank the compressor out.
damn that fuxking pos bolt at the bottom ... the one that attach the low pressure hose ...
at least I got it out. I got Saden compressor. I keep on thinking I got NipponDenso.
I turn it upside down, some oil came out and its all orange and it looks worn out, I guess thats probably the original mineral oil that came with the car
pour maybe 1 or 2 oz of Ester into the same hole, turn the clutch by hand like 20 times, pour, more mineral crap came out, repeat, less came out, repeat, no more orange looking oil. Just Green.
These UV Dye stuff is actually pretty useful, I can tell if I have any garbage left right away.
After the last flush, I just pour maybe 2-3 oz of oil into it, spin it with hand, put it back (what a bitch to do ... I want to slap whoever designed this)
then all of sudden it rains, so I have no choice but to rush back into the house ...
Next I will flush the condenser.
I want to make sure 2 things :
- 2-3 oz of ester oil for compressor is enough right ?
- I want to flush the Evaoprator too, but ... where the hell is it ? I know its somewhere in the dash but how do I access it? do I have to take the whole dash out ?
damn that fuxking pos bolt at the bottom ... the one that attach the low pressure hose ...
at least I got it out. I got Saden compressor. I keep on thinking I got NipponDenso.
I turn it upside down, some oil came out and its all orange and it looks worn out, I guess thats probably the original mineral oil that came with the car
pour maybe 1 or 2 oz of Ester into the same hole, turn the clutch by hand like 20 times, pour, more mineral crap came out, repeat, less came out, repeat, no more orange looking oil. Just Green.
These UV Dye stuff is actually pretty useful, I can tell if I have any garbage left right away.
After the last flush, I just pour maybe 2-3 oz of oil into it, spin it with hand, put it back (what a bitch to do ... I want to slap whoever designed this)
then all of sudden it rains, so I have no choice but to rush back into the house ...
Next I will flush the condenser.
I want to make sure 2 things :
- 2-3 oz of ester oil for compressor is enough right ?
- I want to flush the Evaoprator too, but ... where the hell is it ? I know its somewhere in the dash but how do I access it? do I have to take the whole dash out ?
08-22-09, 10:11 AM
#13
Spent an hour something to yank the compressor out.
damn that fuxking pos bolt at the bottom ... the one that attach the low pressure hose ...
at least I got it out. I got Saden compressor. I keep on thinking I got NipponDenso.
I turn it upside down, some oil came out and its all orange and it looks worn out, I guess thats probably the original mineral oil that came with the car
pour maybe 1 or 2 oz of Ester into the same hole, turn the clutch by hand like 20 times, pour, more mineral crap came out, repeat, less came out, repeat, no more orange looking oil. Just Green.
These UV Dye stuff is actually pretty useful, I can tell if I have any garbage left right away.
After the last flush, I just pour maybe 2-3 oz of oil into it, spin it with hand, put it back (what a bitch to do ... I want to slap whoever designed this)
then all of sudden it rains, so I have no choice but to rush back into the house ...
Next I will flush the condenser.
I want to make sure 2 things :
- 2-3 oz of ester oil for compressor is enough right ?
- I want to flush the Evaoprator too, but ... where the hell is it ? I know its somewhere in the dash but how do I access it? do I have to take the whole dash out ?
damn that fuxking pos bolt at the bottom ... the one that attach the low pressure hose ...
at least I got it out. I got Saden compressor. I keep on thinking I got NipponDenso.
I turn it upside down, some oil came out and its all orange and it looks worn out, I guess thats probably the original mineral oil that came with the car
pour maybe 1 or 2 oz of Ester into the same hole, turn the clutch by hand like 20 times, pour, more mineral crap came out, repeat, less came out, repeat, no more orange looking oil. Just Green.
These UV Dye stuff is actually pretty useful, I can tell if I have any garbage left right away.
After the last flush, I just pour maybe 2-3 oz of oil into it, spin it with hand, put it back (what a bitch to do ... I want to slap whoever designed this)
then all of sudden it rains, so I have no choice but to rush back into the house ...
Next I will flush the condenser.
I want to make sure 2 things :
- 2-3 oz of ester oil for compressor is enough right ?
- I want to flush the Evaoprator too, but ... where the hell is it ? I know its somewhere in the dash but how do I access it? do I have to take the whole dash out ?
Flush that compressor one more time!
Regarding the evaporator flush: T's a pain in the *** withe limited benefit. If you choose not to do it, you will be fine.
Put 3 oz of that ester in the compressor and 3 oz in the *new* drier. Seal up and vacuum.
Good Luck!
08-22-09, 10:20 PM
#14
If it rained with your compressor full of Ester-and the holes weren't covered up to seal it-the ester in you compressor is FULL of water. Ester is very hydroscopic-it aggressively absorbes water vapor from the air.
Flush that compressor one more time!
Regarding the evaporator flush: T's a pain in the *** withe limited benefit. If you choose not to do it, you will be fine.
Put 3 oz of that ester in the compressor and 3 oz in the *new* drier. Seal up and vacuum.
Good Luck!
Flush that compressor one more time!
Regarding the evaporator flush: T's a pain in the *** withe limited benefit. If you choose not to do it, you will be fine.
Put 3 oz of that ester in the compressor and 3 oz in the *new* drier. Seal up and vacuum.
Good Luck!
Going to leave the Evaporator alone. will take the condenser out, flush it with the solvent. blow it dry with air, then buy new bottle of Ester and flush the compressor again.
Thx
08-24-09, 07:35 PM
#15
wow wtf !
the kit I bought has R12 and R134a hose (2 sets) from Mastercool.
for some reason the high side fitting doesn't fit !
then I was like, do I really need to plug both low and high in before I can pull a deep vacuum ?
so I just cap the high side, and pull it from low side.
and guess what, its always 22, not pulling any deeper, and I put my finger on the high side, its sucking air in -_-.
it seems to be able to hold pressure tho (when I turn it off)
do I need special adapter to fit the high side or something ? -_-
service manual saids I need to pull Vacuum from both high and low side, is that true ? -_-
the kit I bought has R12 and R134a hose (2 sets) from Mastercool.
for some reason the high side fitting doesn't fit !
then I was like, do I really need to plug both low and high in before I can pull a deep vacuum ?
so I just cap the high side, and pull it from low side.
and guess what, its always 22, not pulling any deeper, and I put my finger on the high side, its sucking air in -_-.
it seems to be able to hold pressure tho (when I turn it off)
do I need special adapter to fit the high side or something ? -_-
service manual saids I need to pull Vacuum from both high and low side, is that true ? -_-
08-25-09, 07:04 AM
#16
The high side port on our cars is 3/16" the low side is 1/4". Mazda (and many other automakers) did this to prevent inexperienced people from trying to charge from the highside port. You can buy an adaptor.
To answer your question: you can vacuum from just the low side. IF you are charging by weight, ie. exactly 2 cans of freeze12 into an empty system, you won't really need to attach the hose to the highside. You won't be able to read the pressures, but IF everything is working right you won't need to.
If you are topping up a charge, or diagnosing problems, you need that adaptor so you can read the highside pressures.
Good Luck!
To answer your question: you can vacuum from just the low side. IF you are charging by weight, ie. exactly 2 cans of freeze12 into an empty system, you won't really need to attach the hose to the highside. You won't be able to read the pressures, but IF everything is working right you won't need to.
If you are topping up a charge, or diagnosing problems, you need that adaptor so you can read the highside pressures.
Good Luck!
08-25-09, 12:15 PM
#17
****@)!*!@)#*!@)*#
I used a can tap to tap into the Freeze 12 with leak stop and Red dye (cuz there is a very small little leak, and I want to know where it is)
but then I didnt "secure" it correctly and the ******* can tap just slip off and its all over my engine bay ... and some when into my eye. I ******* rush to the bathroom and flush it off GRrrrrr.
Now Im just going to use the Regular R134a with UV dye to see where the small leak is ... charging it now ... damn I really need to buy a set of goggles.
The deepest Vacuum I can pull is around 22, I dunno if its a problem with the pump or whatever. cuz when I stop the pump, it leaks slowly, maybe in about 1 hour all vacuum will be gone. -_-
I used a can tap to tap into the Freeze 12 with leak stop and Red dye (cuz there is a very small little leak, and I want to know where it is)
but then I didnt "secure" it correctly and the ******* can tap just slip off and its all over my engine bay ... and some when into my eye. I ******* rush to the bathroom and flush it off GRrrrrr.
Now Im just going to use the Regular R134a with UV dye to see where the small leak is ... charging it now ... damn I really need to buy a set of goggles.
The deepest Vacuum I can pull is around 22, I dunno if its a problem with the pump or whatever. cuz when I stop the pump, it leaks slowly, maybe in about 1 hour all vacuum will be gone. -_-
08-25-09, 05:11 PM
#21
The Red Flash
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what kind of refrigerant is your finall charge? r12 and hot shot uses mineral oil 134a /
freeze 12 uses ester oil. your dye and pag oil you have put in the compressor is not compatabel with the mineral oil unless you flush the whole system.
I have been working on my ac this summer and have 2 high side hoses and both are bad need to have rebuilt. look at your high side hose that goes to the condesor.to the compressor. made of rubber and under a lot of stress.
supercool makes a great flush but do not flush with the compressor attached.
freeze 12 uses ester oil. your dye and pag oil you have put in the compressor is not compatabel with the mineral oil unless you flush the whole system.
I have been working on my ac this summer and have 2 high side hoses and both are bad need to have rebuilt. look at your high side hose that goes to the condesor.to the compressor. made of rubber and under a lot of stress.
supercool makes a great flush but do not flush with the compressor attached.
08-25-09, 05:13 PM
#22
what kind of refrigerant is your finall charge? r12 and hot shot uses mineral oil 134a /
freeze 12 uses ester oil. your dye and pag oil you have put in the compressor is not compatabel with the mineral oil unless you flush the whole system.
I have been working on my ac this summer and have 2 high side hoses and both are bad need to have rebuilt. look at your high side hose that goes to the condesor.to the compressor. made of rubber and under a lot of stress.
supercool makes a great flush but do not flush with the compressor attached.
freeze 12 uses ester oil. your dye and pag oil you have put in the compressor is not compatabel with the mineral oil unless you flush the whole system.
I have been working on my ac this summer and have 2 high side hoses and both are bad need to have rebuilt. look at your high side hose that goes to the condesor.to the compressor. made of rubber and under a lot of stress.
supercool makes a great flush but do not flush with the compressor attached.
I didnt put any charge into it.
I am trying to pull vacuum, found a small leak, takes maybe 1 hour before Vacuum is completely gone. so I keep looking around and found that the high pressure side is leaking, I replaced the line with a used one, then it has a "huge" leak.
Now Im thinking is it the line itself thats bad .... hmm
08-25-09, 05:14 PM
#23
The Red Flash
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it is also helpfull if you have a micrometer while you are pulling vacume if you do get it to hold on the gauges @ -29in. vacume with a mircometer you can be sure it will hold @ 500 microns.
black dragon offers a O ring kit complete for a/c system rebuild.
black dragon offers a O ring kit complete for a/c system rebuild.
08-25-09, 05:17 PM
#24
The Red Flash
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I asked around my area for a place that did hose rebuilds. I blew my oil cooling lines and lost a lot of oil. a new set was around 200 and I had both rebuild for around $20. Im going back to the same place to have my lower hose rebuilt.