Using RA Super Seals with Atkins Overhaul kit? Good idea or no?
Using RA Super Seals with Atkins Overhaul kit? Good idea or no?
Im going with RA super seals with a engine rebuild I will be doing in a few months, a guy I talk about a lot here named Kilo recommended them to me, and he's kind of a local legend here in central Florida. I also want to do it myself now that I have access to the proper facilities and I also want to get the experience of an engine rebuild under my belt. in the future this car will be making 350~ on stock ports
the RA overhaul kits is about $1200, but I found that If i get the Atkins Overhaul kit A (this one: 89-91 Turbo Rx7 Overhaul Kit A (ARE42) (atkinsrotary.com)) I can get more than what the RA kit provides, stuff I need because most of the gaskets on mine are going to need replacing anyways once I remove them, and its $400 cheaper even if I include RA Race Springs.
is this a good idea? I keep going through it in my mind and nothing sticks out at me so I thought I might ask the community. another thing I don't see in the kit is an oil pump chain but if I include that its still way cheaper.
so... any thoughts?
the RA overhaul kits is about $1200, but I found that If i get the Atkins Overhaul kit A (this one: 89-91 Turbo Rx7 Overhaul Kit A (ARE42) (atkinsrotary.com)) I can get more than what the RA kit provides, stuff I need because most of the gaskets on mine are going to need replacing anyways once I remove them, and its $400 cheaper even if I include RA Race Springs.
is this a good idea? I keep going through it in my mind and nothing sticks out at me so I thought I might ask the community. another thing I don't see in the kit is an oil pump chain but if I include that its still way cheaper.
so... any thoughts?
so just doing the math, SS + Atkins kit + side seals from Atkins + new oil pump chain = 1,016 which is over 300 less than the master engine overhaul kit from RA
Just as a side note, I want to do what's right for my engine first and foremost, then save a couple bucks on the side if I can, If the best course of action is to go RA master all the way, I will. I just want to see if there are any downsides to running RA SS with Atkins stuff.
Just as a side note, I want to do what's right for my engine first and foremost, then save a couple bucks on the side if I can, If the best course of action is to go RA master all the way, I will. I just want to see if there are any downsides to running RA SS with Atkins stuff.
I have a rebuilt s5 t2 with 40k since rebuild. Using RA apex seals/springs, Atkins fd corner seals/springs, Atkins side seals/springs, pineapple racing water seal kit, oem oil control orings (suggested by pineapple racing), Atkins gaskets (manifolds, timing cover, etc.). I forget what oil control scraper rings I used. I think I bought a set from Atkins but didn’t use them (I think because they didn’t feel as sturdy as oem). Note this rebuild was done probably 7-9 years ago.
I forget if there’s anything else but that’s main stuff.
Still running strong with stock ports and a bnr stage 3 hybrid turbo. I’d use the same parts again but I’d probably port a motor. oh hey I have a large streetport s5 t2 motor that only needs oil control orings (so far) from sitting 10 years, so I’d use the same combination for that engine too. I
sorry don’t have time to do the math on cost, I bought all the parts over time before assembly. But at least the pineapple racing water seals allow you to reuse them under 10k or something in case you need to tear the engine apart again.
I understand everybody has a budget, but I would recommend doing it right the first time and not trying to save a couple hundred bucks on the parts.
I forget if there’s anything else but that’s main stuff.
Still running strong with stock ports and a bnr stage 3 hybrid turbo. I’d use the same parts again but I’d probably port a motor. oh hey I have a large streetport s5 t2 motor that only needs oil control orings (so far) from sitting 10 years, so I’d use the same combination for that engine too. I
sorry don’t have time to do the math on cost, I bought all the parts over time before assembly. But at least the pineapple racing water seals allow you to reuse them under 10k or something in case you need to tear the engine apart again.
I understand everybody has a budget, but I would recommend doing it right the first time and not trying to save a couple hundred bucks on the parts.
I have a rebuilt s5 t2 with 40k since rebuild. Using RA apex seals/springs, Atkins fd corner seals/springs, Atkins side seals/springs, pineapple racing water seal kit, oem oil control orings (suggested by pineapple racing), Atkins gaskets (manifolds, timing cover, etc.). I forget what oil control scraper rings I used. I think I bought a set from Atkins but didn’t use them (I think because they didn’t feel as sturdy as oem). Note this rebuild was done probably 7-9 years ago.
I forget if there’s anything else but that’s main stuff.
Still running strong with stock ports and a bnr stage 3 hybrid turbo. I’d use the same parts again but I’d probably port a motor. oh hey I have a large streetport s5 t2 motor that only needs oil control orings (so far) from sitting 10 years, so I’d use the same combination for that engine too. I
sorry don’t have time to do the math on cost, I bought all the parts over time before assembly. But at least the pineapple racing water seals allow you to reuse them under 10k or something in case you need to tear the engine apart again.
I understand everybody has a budget, but I would recommend doing it right the first time and not trying to save a couple hundred bucks on the parts.
I forget if there’s anything else but that’s main stuff.
Still running strong with stock ports and a bnr stage 3 hybrid turbo. I’d use the same parts again but I’d probably port a motor. oh hey I have a large streetport s5 t2 motor that only needs oil control orings (so far) from sitting 10 years, so I’d use the same combination for that engine too. I
sorry don’t have time to do the math on cost, I bought all the parts over time before assembly. But at least the pineapple racing water seals allow you to reuse them under 10k or something in case you need to tear the engine apart again.
I understand everybody has a budget, but I would recommend doing it right the first time and not trying to save a couple hundred bucks on the parts.
Just a heads up the Atkins kit DOES NOT come with oil control ring springs. I used Mazda OEM seals on my turbo 2. RA seals are nice because their strong as hell but they can chew up housings pretty fast. Unless your pushing big boost I would recommend oem seals.
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Behien
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Jul 9, 2018 06:31 PM






