US 13bt impossible to find?
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US 13bt impossible to find?
Hello Everyone,
First off thank you for the support and answers to my questions(although they sometimes sound foolish)
I've got a 90 gtu. I am seriously getting tired of the weak n/a motor. I just upgraded my brakes and installed some jic-magic coilovers so now the lack of power seems to be more apparent when I try to get into and come out of the twisty's.
My question is: Is a jdm 13bt my only option for power. I definately want a 13bt but I notice that the JDM rotaries seem to not like sitting very much and have a tendency to blow when restarted . If jdm is my best bet, does anyone have any positive experience with importers that guarantee compression,etc..?
I have also been told that the harness wont work wit hte US cars due to length.
So....
Here is what I have come up with. Please feel free to correct anything I say(TELLING ME TO SEARCH is not helping,as I've been searching).
I have about $3000 to play with right now, with a income of about 700$ a week after taxes/deductions,etc..
motor: $1000
harness: $150
stock ecu: $100
tranny: $200
TII LSD: $200
axles: $100
drive shaft: $100
boost sensor: $50
boost gauge: $150
FCD: $100
downpipe/exhaust: $700
BOV: $100
AFM: $100
clutch: $300
flywheel: with motor?
If I get a complete swap imported from japan, which items will be included and which will need to purchased seperately?
I'm trying to figure this out but am not the greatest at this sort of thing. All imnput is appreciated. Also, if anyone knows any shops in the dc/baltimore area that could help out, i'd love to know.
thanks,
Rob
First off thank you for the support and answers to my questions(although they sometimes sound foolish)
I've got a 90 gtu. I am seriously getting tired of the weak n/a motor. I just upgraded my brakes and installed some jic-magic coilovers so now the lack of power seems to be more apparent when I try to get into and come out of the twisty's.
My question is: Is a jdm 13bt my only option for power. I definately want a 13bt but I notice that the JDM rotaries seem to not like sitting very much and have a tendency to blow when restarted . If jdm is my best bet, does anyone have any positive experience with importers that guarantee compression,etc..?
I have also been told that the harness wont work wit hte US cars due to length.
So....
Here is what I have come up with. Please feel free to correct anything I say(TELLING ME TO SEARCH is not helping,as I've been searching).
I have about $3000 to play with right now, with a income of about 700$ a week after taxes/deductions,etc..
motor: $1000
harness: $150
stock ecu: $100
tranny: $200
TII LSD: $200
axles: $100
drive shaft: $100
boost sensor: $50
boost gauge: $150
FCD: $100
downpipe/exhaust: $700
BOV: $100
AFM: $100
clutch: $300
flywheel: with motor?
If I get a complete swap imported from japan, which items will be included and which will need to purchased seperately?
I'm trying to figure this out but am not the greatest at this sort of thing. All imnput is appreciated. Also, if anyone knows any shops in the dc/baltimore area that could help out, i'd love to know.
thanks,
Rob
#4
RTRY-FTW
iTrader: (22)
^ If you dont have the funds to get it rebuilt then your taking a leap of faith. Most importers garantee a 30 day start up, but with rotary's its hit or miss which ones will provide that garantee. Also you have to know what to ask for, again most importers will charge more for an uncut harness when in reality you cant even use the one they send. If you are curiouse of what all will come with the motor set, either call and ask or look on their website.
Most likely the importer will not send the AFM. They also will not provide a BPS. In regards to a boost gauge thats simple enouph to run aftermarket. But your chassis is S5 so if you buy a S5 TII gauge cluster the factory gauge will work.
A list of parts you will need to purchase separate are:
- S5 TII engine harness
- BPS
- AFM
- Driveshaft/ rearend components( if you leave your NA rear end you can do 1 of 2 things, MazdaTrix or buy a TII driveshaft and redrill the differential side to bolt up)
Sometimes youll get lucky with what comes with the motor. ie: lightweight flywheel/ clutch/ downpipe/ dual pulley ect.
The biggst piece of advice I can give you is to always ask for pictures of the exact motor that they would be sending you if you purchased from them. Then you have a good idea of what your going to need.
Most likely the importer will not send the AFM. They also will not provide a BPS. In regards to a boost gauge thats simple enouph to run aftermarket. But your chassis is S5 so if you buy a S5 TII gauge cluster the factory gauge will work.
A list of parts you will need to purchase separate are:
- S5 TII engine harness
- BPS
- AFM
- Driveshaft/ rearend components( if you leave your NA rear end you can do 1 of 2 things, MazdaTrix or buy a TII driveshaft and redrill the differential side to bolt up)
Sometimes youll get lucky with what comes with the motor. ie: lightweight flywheel/ clutch/ downpipe/ dual pulley ect.
The biggst piece of advice I can give you is to always ask for pictures of the exact motor that they would be sending you if you purchased from them. Then you have a good idea of what your going to need.
#6
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thanks alot guys.
If I get one with a start-up warranty and it starts and runs properly within the 30 days or whatever, would I need to worry about it blowing later on down the line or is that something that you typically notice/will happen shortly after it starts up?
Rob
If I get one with a start-up warranty and it starts and runs properly within the 30 days or whatever, would I need to worry about it blowing later on down the line or is that something that you typically notice/will happen shortly after it starts up?
Rob
#7
RTRY-FTW
iTrader: (22)
really any rotary can blow at any time, Its all about maintnance. change your oil, make sure your OMP is working properly, A/F ratios are proper.
I also injescted MMO, Marvel Miracle Oil?, into my spark plug holed and rotated the essentric shaft a few times to help create good compression before I started mine for the first time.
Also the swap is easy if you do your research and dont rush it. I was 17 when I did mine, and did it all by myself. if that means anything..
I also injescted MMO, Marvel Miracle Oil?, into my spark plug holed and rotated the essentric shaft a few times to help create good compression before I started mine for the first time.
Also the swap is easy if you do your research and dont rush it. I was 17 when I did mine, and did it all by myself. if that means anything..
Last edited by Zerkster; 08-31-08 at 09:44 PM.
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Thank for the advice guys. I think I'll stick with my n/a chassis as it's in great condition with a near mint black interior. I'll just keep on a reading and get her done correctly. I've swapped out some honda engines but thats about it as far as swaps go.
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