U-joints for 2nd Gen RX-7 driveshafts...Now available
01-25-03, 09:15 AM
#26
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Jimmy325i
With a wire welder and by doing very quick, very small little tack welds, you can perform the weld on the yoke and not drastically effect the grease inside.
My U-joints are like brand new still and it has been almost 8 months since I replaced mine. I will be greasing them up next weekend when I do my oil change. Why? Just because they have the grease cert to do it. No sense on having a cert and then not use it.
But, I didn't have to put any preload on the circlip other than my fingers. The whole assembly slid right in perfectly. A little tap to secure the caps in place and you are all set.
Also, he is right. Don't work on both ends at once because you can flip the driveshaft and then you get the shaft. Lots of work to replace these and now you have to re-do it all again to re-flip the driveshaft.
With a wire welder and by doing very quick, very small little tack welds, you can perform the weld on the yoke and not drastically effect the grease inside.
My U-joints are like brand new still and it has been almost 8 months since I replaced mine. I will be greasing them up next weekend when I do my oil change. Why? Just because they have the grease cert to do it. No sense on having a cert and then not use it.
But, I didn't have to put any preload on the circlip other than my fingers. The whole assembly slid right in perfectly. A little tap to secure the caps in place and you are all set.
Also, he is right. Don't work on both ends at once because you can flip the driveshaft and then you get the shaft. Lots of work to replace these and now you have to re-do it all again to re-flip the driveshaft.
01-25-03, 09:16 AM
#27
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Oh,
The diameter from end cap to end cap and the diameter of an end cap would be perfect.
Then I will know definitely whether or not these U-joints truly work for "ALL" 84-91 RX-7s.
I am also posting in the 1st Gen forum to get measurements on their driveshafts to see.
The diameter from end cap to end cap and the diameter of an end cap would be perfect.
Then I will know definitely whether or not these U-joints truly work for "ALL" 84-91 RX-7s.
I am also posting in the 1st Gen forum to get measurements on their driveshafts to see.
01-25-03, 04:00 PM
#28
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Wire feed or TIG doesn't matter. You run the risk of warping it either way. Besides being unnecessary, it causes more trouble than its worth. Ask the 4x4 guys how many weld their endcaps in... I'd bet my car none of them say they do.
The reasoning behind the preload on the circlips is to allow the joint to have its float within the endcaps. There should be enough space for grease to float around the end of the joint and they should move smoothly when you're done. If they're stiff then you have premature wear which will occur as soon as you drive the car. Butting the endcap against the circlip is the standard practice for everyone I know who does driveline repair. (this includes 2 full driveline specialty shops and 3 tranny rebuilders)
Welding also hardens the soft metal of the joint (not talking about the pivot when I say joint) this will cause undue stress within it and possibly cause premature failure.
The reasoning behind the preload on the circlips is to allow the joint to have its float within the endcaps. There should be enough space for grease to float around the end of the joint and they should move smoothly when you're done. If they're stiff then you have premature wear which will occur as soon as you drive the car. Butting the endcap against the circlip is the standard practice for everyone I know who does driveline repair. (this includes 2 full driveline specialty shops and 3 tranny rebuilders)
Welding also hardens the soft metal of the joint (not talking about the pivot when I say joint) this will cause undue stress within it and possibly cause premature failure.
02-10-09, 02:46 PM
#29
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Yeah, yeah, yeah.
I have heard all the critics tell this before, "There aren't any U-joints on the market for the 2nd Gen RX-7"
"You gotta buy a Mazdatrix driveshaft or a new OEM driveshaft ($250/$350)"
I say B-S to that!
My 88 SE had the front U-joint nearly blow apart on me. Fortunately, I got it home before any damage was done to the car or the driveshaft.
I began to look around for a replacement U-joint. My theory was this:
Someone made the original U-joint for Mazda back in the 80s, so they must still be available somewhere.
Well, I was right. I also found U-joints for the B-series pickups in the mid-80s with the same "permanent" U-joints that the RX-7 used.
Here's the information:
Rockford Driveline Components
Part #: 430-10A
Mazda RX-7 (84-92 all)
Rockford Driveline Components
Part #: 430-10
Mazda B-series (?? not sure on all years, contact for more info)
I can verify that the U-joints do work on N/A driveshafts. I have sold a couple pairs already and all the people have claimed them to work wonderfully. I can also verify them working because my RX-7 is still running on those U-joints, going on 8 months now.
Prices:
$28 shipped each
$50 shipped pair
(combine shipping, save on the 2nd and additional. Large quantity orders can get a discount)
cook27@fsuimail.ferris.edu
ps Mods, maybe we can get a sticky on this to keep it up for all to see......
I have heard all the critics tell this before, "There aren't any U-joints on the market for the 2nd Gen RX-7"
"You gotta buy a Mazdatrix driveshaft or a new OEM driveshaft ($250/$350)"
I say B-S to that!
My 88 SE had the front U-joint nearly blow apart on me. Fortunately, I got it home before any damage was done to the car or the driveshaft.
I began to look around for a replacement U-joint. My theory was this:
Someone made the original U-joint for Mazda back in the 80s, so they must still be available somewhere.
Well, I was right. I also found U-joints for the B-series pickups in the mid-80s with the same "permanent" U-joints that the RX-7 used.
Here's the information:
Rockford Driveline Components
Part #: 430-10A
Mazda RX-7 (84-92 all)
Rockford Driveline Components
Part #: 430-10
Mazda B-series (?? not sure on all years, contact for more info)
I can verify that the U-joints do work on N/A driveshafts. I have sold a couple pairs already and all the people have claimed them to work wonderfully. I can also verify them working because my RX-7 is still running on those U-joints, going on 8 months now.
Prices:
$28 shipped each
$50 shipped pair
(combine shipping, save on the 2nd and additional. Large quantity orders can get a discount)
cook27@fsuimail.ferris.edu
ps Mods, maybe we can get a sticky on this to keep it up for all to see......
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...45#post8954545
02-11-09, 07:14 AM
#32
Thanks for resurrecting the thread (honest!)
Audio... and Jimmy:
I'm a noob in this particular area... So our factory driveshafts have circlip grooves? Just wanna make sure.
And re: preload (I'm assuming putting some load on the end caps against the circlips) - how do you do this? Are you putting force on the center joint thing that looks like a + ?
Audio... and Jimmy:
I'm a noob in this particular area... So our factory driveshafts have circlip grooves? Just wanna make sure.
And re: preload (I'm assuming putting some load on the end caps against the circlips) - how do you do this? Are you putting force on the center joint thing that looks like a + ?
11-17-10, 08:40 PM
#33
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It seems Rockford has updated their catalog:
84-91 N/A: 430-10a
87-91 TII: 430-11
The N/A u-joint is shared with the 94-99 Miatas, and the TII u-joint is shared with the pickups, the MPV, the 929 and some years of BMW 7-series and the M5 (and one model of Daihatsu).
84-91 N/A: 430-10a
87-91 TII: 430-11
The N/A u-joint is shared with the 94-99 Miatas, and the TII u-joint is shared with the pickups, the MPV, the 929 and some years of BMW 7-series and the M5 (and one model of Daihatsu).
11-27-10, 02:42 PM
#36
You can get them here, but be careful because apparently it's a zombie website.
http://rockforddriveline.com/default.htm
http://rockforddriveline.com/default.htm
07-22-11, 06:56 PM
#40
Rotary mind...
To anyone interested.
These Joints will break!!!
I purchased these joints from Rockford to replace mine which were in bad shape.
Upon receiving them I immediately compared them to the already removed OEM ones and noticed one important difference.
Although the end caps on the Rockford u-joints are beffier than the OEM ones, the center cross ends (the portion that slips into the end caps) is of smaller diameter and has a hole in the center for grease flow to all 4 tips.
The hole is rather large. It could be 1/8" instead of 1/4".
The bottom line is that there is not as much material to bare the torsional load applied with spirited driving and they break. If you do granny driving and/or are very cheap, then go ahead.
But if you want reliabilty, spend the extra bucks and buy the Mazadtrix shaft. Either version (aluminum or steel) is just as or stronger than the OEM unit at a fraction of the price. The steel unit is a bit heavy, but will not break.
When my replaced joint failed, the front unit went first and the loose end, continued spinning and hit the gear shift tower at the end of the gearbox and damaged: the housing for the gear lever, the conecting rod that goes into the gearbox, the end of the box, which broke and the transmition tunnel that has big dimples around the lever area.
Expensive experiment to buy these joints.
Avoid if possible.
These Joints will break!!!
I purchased these joints from Rockford to replace mine which were in bad shape.
Upon receiving them I immediately compared them to the already removed OEM ones and noticed one important difference.
Although the end caps on the Rockford u-joints are beffier than the OEM ones, the center cross ends (the portion that slips into the end caps) is of smaller diameter and has a hole in the center for grease flow to all 4 tips.
The hole is rather large. It could be 1/8" instead of 1/4".
The bottom line is that there is not as much material to bare the torsional load applied with spirited driving and they break. If you do granny driving and/or are very cheap, then go ahead.
But if you want reliabilty, spend the extra bucks and buy the Mazadtrix shaft. Either version (aluminum or steel) is just as or stronger than the OEM unit at a fraction of the price. The steel unit is a bit heavy, but will not break.
When my replaced joint failed, the front unit went first and the loose end, continued spinning and hit the gear shift tower at the end of the gearbox and damaged: the housing for the gear lever, the conecting rod that goes into the gearbox, the end of the box, which broke and the transmition tunnel that has big dimples around the lever area.
Expensive experiment to buy these joints.
Avoid if possible.
