Audiofight

Yeah, yeah, yeah.

I have heard all the critics tell this before, "There aren't any U-joints on the market for the 2nd Gen RX-7"

"You gotta buy a Mazdatrix driveshaft or a new OEM driveshaft ($250/$350)"

I say B-S to that!

My 88 SE had the front U-joint nearly blow apart on me. Fortunately, I got it home before any damage was done to the car or the driveshaft.

I began to look around for a replacement U-joint. My theory was this:

Someone made the original U-joint for Mazda back in the 80s, so they must still be available somewhere.

Well, I was right. I also found U-joints for the B-series pickups in the mid-80s with the same "permanent" U-joints that the RX-7 used.

Here's the information:

Rockford Driveline Components
Part #: 430-10A
Mazda RX-7 (84-92 all)

Rockford Driveline Components
Part #: 430-10
Mazda B-series (?? not sure on all years, contact for more info)

I can verify that the U-joints do work on N/A driveshafts. I have sold a couple pairs already and all the people have claimed them to work wonderfully. I can also verify them working because my RX-7 is still running on those U-joints, going on 8 months now.

Prices:

$28 shipped each
$50 shipped pair

(combine shipping, save on the 2nd and additional. Large quantity orders can get a discount)

cook27@fsuimail.ferris.edu

ps Mods, maybe we can get a sticky on this to keep it up for all to see......

88 SE

Mods tend to sticky useless crap. This is damn good info, so itll probably get ignored.

BlackRx7

What about us TIIs?

Audiofight

BlackRx7

"What about us TIIs?"

Get a real car, like an N/A !!!!

j/k











IF you happen to have an N/A driveshaft and a TII driveshaft laying around, then do some rough measurements for me on the U-joints.

Like I said, I own an 88 SE which means N/A.

I used these U-joints on my driveshaft and they work wonderfully.

The Rockford Driveline Components book claims that these U-joints work for ALL RX-7s 84-92.

That means all the 1st Gen GSL-SE models should be like our driveshafts, maybe all the 84-5 1st Gens, don't own one so I don't know.

If you want to buy one at bare minimum cost from me for testing, PM me and we may be able to work something out.

Otherwise, get some rough measurements of the U-joint in your TII driveshaft and I will try to round up some N/A U-joint measurements and we can compare.

BlackRx7

But you said "Part #: 430-10A
Mazda RX-7 (84-92 all) "



hehe yeah I am going to install some poly Uranthane controll arm mounts tommorrow, I'll try an get a rough merasurement

88 SE

Audiofight: im putting together a big FAQ for FC's right now (trying to make something like the DSM 1000 Questions FAQ) and was wondering if you dont mind if i stick this info with your email address in there.

HKSTurboII

Out of curiosity, what is the symptoms of a worn U joint???

Audiofight

88 SE

Go right ahead. I have no problem with people asking me to ship out a pair. These U-joints work wonderful and I would love to see everyone using them instead of taking the "shaft" and having to purchase a whole new driveshaft.

HKSTurboII

My symptoms were the following:

55-60 mph - My whole car would vibrate, pretty moderate to severe near the end.

Also, it would squeek while going in reverse.

Tests:

Need a helper for this. Lift car up. Put in neutral. Clean a stripe off the driveshaft (remove dirt and grease) and place a pencil lightly touching the driveshaft. Have helper turn the wheel in the foward direction. Try to hold the pencil perfectly still, do NOT compensate for driveshaft movement.

IF your mark is a solid line, the U-joints are fine.
IF it looks something like this ( )
Then your U-joint is shot b/c the driveshaft is wobbling in and out, not spinning perfectly.

Another test is to turn off all internal noise possible (radio, heater blower, etc.) and roll window down. Now, start to go in reverse, keeping the rpms as low as possible, and listen for a faint to somewhat loud squeeking. If there is noise, you should perform the other test for the U-joint to make sure it isn't something else like brakes hanging up.

Someone sticky this thread...........Useful stuff here

Audiofight

Oh.

If you happen to own a totally different vehicle, but with the similar "U-joints aren't available" syndrome (like the B-series pickup for example). Contact me, I have access to alot of rare and supposed not available U-joints.


I don't know if there are any other vehicles produced like that, but give me a yell and we will find out.

BlackRx7

yeah so if this happens don't continue to drive the car, I made that mistake in my 89 GTU, the front U-Joint snaped in half took of the input shaft for the shifter, housing on my tranny to, doing a 40mph, then wahm, wahm, wahm ,wahm, stoped and saw my drive shaft laying on teh ground :o

Pinfield357

5 stars... at least it will make it to the archive

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Educate me. What is the difference between the n/a & TII joints? Just wondering 'cause my TII, I wouldn't know how to retain caps in place without welding them.
Thanks

BlackRx7

the U-joint on a TII are much larger diameter, as well as the driveshaft it self, other than that there pretty Identicle.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply, but how do you hold the caps in place, and make sure they are centered, without retaining "grooves" from the factory?

BlackRx7

no idea, never have removed tham myself

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again. The only way I've seen it done is drill out the shaft that holds the caps. Insert new joints, weld them, then balance shaft.
Maybe we'll come up with a new idea.

Audiofight

Here is how I did it.

- Take removed driveshaft and place flat on cement floor of garage.
- Place large diameter socket underneath the yoke (between it and floor), should be same diameter as yoke opening
- Drive a large punch with a large hammer into the top cap of the U-joint
- Lower cap should begin to work its way out via force
- Flip driveshaft and repeat
- Continue this procedure until the U-joint is nearly out of those 2 caps
- Re-do the procedure to loosen up the remaining 2 caps.
- Remove old U-joint

- Use file to smooth the old weld down flush
- Install new U-joint
- Use Lincoln Wire welder to add a nice light weld line around the caps.
* Be very careful while welding so you don't heat the grease up and cause it to break down prematurely.

The circlips should hold the new U-joint in place without the weld, but better safe than sorry while the driveshaft is laying on the floor already.

The yokes are tapered like normal domestic driveshafts to prevent the U-joint from sliding all the way out the ends. I had to punch the caps inside the yoke to remove them. I couldn't force them outwards.

Hope this somewhat makes sense.

Basically, smash the living **** out of them until the old ones are gone. Just DO NOT hit the yoke or the actual shaft

Audiofight

If you remove the driveshaft properly (i.e. marking exactly which way it came out while removing) then you should be able to re-install the driveshaft w/o paying to have it balanced.

If the driveshaft is in perfect condition other than the U-joint getting bad and you don't beat it out of frustration and dent it somehow, then it should remain balanced even with the new U-joint.

I didn't pay anyone to re-balance my driveshaft and my car is completely smooth. I was actually surprised that it rode that nicely after the new U-joint.

JoeZoom

iTrader: (1)

I have replaced many a U-joint and how I do it is use a big vice and press them out.

Use a socket a little bit smaller than the cup on one side and another bigger than the cup on the other side.

You will think that it is not going to work until "POP" and then it starts to come out.

I would not use a hammer for risk of bending or otherwise damaging the driveshaft.

No need for the weld as they will not come out once you have them in with the clips installed.

Hope this helps.

Audiofight

JoeZoom -

Very true. If you happen to have a big enough vice to press these U-joints out with, then by all means use it.

I don't have a vice or a press that can exert enough force to do this, so I use a hammer and large punch. One hit at a time, carefully aimed.

Like I also said, DO NOT hit the driveshaft or the yokes. That WILL throw the driveshaft out of balance.

JoeZoom

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I did not think about that...most people do not have a big vice or press.

Audiofight

Bump again.......

Audiofight

never actually received any information from any TII owners that were going to take some U-joint measurements for me.

I plan to get some new stock in next week (have some now, just stocking up is all) and will try to take some accurate measurements.

BlackRx7

well actually I was about to get some measurements but didn't get around to it, come to think of it U-Joints on a TII are pretty strong right anyone ever get one replaced, one I recive the derlin subframe busings fro scott I will try to take a diameter measurement and circumfrence measurement, any thing else you would need?

Jimmy325i

Don't forget to measure those bushings for me. You will get something out of it if I sell anything from the design.

Also, welding on the joints is a BAD idea. You might think that you're keeping the grease cool enough, but thats not possible. You also run the risk of warping the joint. (driveshaft then needs repair work to replace yoke) Also, the weld is pointless because of the circlips. I've seen many blown u-joints as well and have yet to see one due to a properly installed circlip. The trick is to place a little preload on the clip to keep it in place. Don't over do it because you can drive them clear out of the grooves too. (only seen that from idiots using "daddys" 100 ton press)

The welds will also cause imbalance in the shaft as well. Not good!

When you pull the shaft take a piece of chalk and draw a line through the joint on both sides of the flange so that it is impossible to mistake its orientation. Only work on one end of the shaft at a time so that you don't flip it and mess it up that way.