Hey guiys iw as just discussing my turboed n/a project with a friend of mine. I am trying to find a way to get this all done without removing the engine form the car and he suggested something. It seems old cartech turbo kits tapped the oil cooler lines for the oil return. HAs anyone here done this? Any pics?

 

Why not just tap the oil pan?

 

sounds scary.

 

I would hope those old kits tapped for feed ...

 

some say tap the front cover, some say tap the oil pan,< that is what i did. mine was leaking like a sin anyways so it seemed logic. its probably possible. id also like to see pics on how they did this/ probavly just put a "T" there.

 

id say taping the oil pan would be more efficent and less worriesome .... considering that the oil would probably be the coolest there ... given its position ... but yeah ... i say oilpan

 

Id say just get a Tii front cover and foget about it. Its pretty easy and could change the oil pump to. Besides, you need to put the chain baffle on there from the Tii.

 

I would say if possible dont try to tap the oil pan. Since its not thick it would probably leak easily. If theres a reasonably flat spot look into getting a properly sized bulkhead type fitting. It would be easier to install and much stronger and less prone to leaking. This is of course you have the required flat spot.

 

my idea was a oil line that will thread into the oil pan drain plug hole ??? i dont know if that would work,correcty or not tho??.... since i dont feel comfortable "taping" an oil line into the pan

 

You cannot tap the oil cooler lines for return since both are under pressure. The return has to see zero pressure.

Tap the pan, or weld in a fitting.

 

is it true you should have some kind of resistence in the return line to keep pressure down?? i thought that couldnt be right. since the return is zero pressure, shouldnt this be good enough for the anount of pressure coming form the inlet side of the oil? that would be the who;e reason you need ZERO back pressure correct? and what is the stock amount of pressure of the inlet going to the turbo in a tII?

 

you want no resistance ... its powered by gravity. Turbo inlet should see teh same pressure as regulator puts out at varied rpm.

 

But im told that if you remove the front cover while its still in the car you can hav e problem with soem bearing coming loose and ******* your motor.

 

You can remove the front cover without removing the engine, this would be the best way to achieve the return. It is the correct part and BANZAI RACING has them on sale for $30 shipped.

 

do they have the chain baffle plate as well?

 

Here is what I did to my S5 cover.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...her/junk54.jpg

 

Tapping the pan is a no-no in my book. The metal is too thin to hold anything threaded into it for long. Your best bet is to tap the front cover where the TII return normally goes. This can be accomplished with the engine in the car, but it does have some difficulty. You will need to remove the oil pan while drilling and tapping, (1/2" NPT), to make sure you can remove all of the aluminum shavings.

If you really want the return in the pan, then remove it and weld a bung on it, just below the flange, between 2 bolt holes. After the bung is welded on, drill the center of it for the hole and thoroughly clean any debris. Do not use the oil drain plug for the return, the return oil can back up in the return tube because the return oil in not under pressure. The only pressure involved in the return tube is head pressure, which is the weight of the oil times the vertical distance of the fall, that is not enough pressure to overcome the weight of the oil in the pan.

 

The biggest and most important reason to never tap the oil pan is because the drain level must be above the oil level in the pan. This is why they return to the front cover on the factory turbos. The oil will back up in the drain line if it returns below the oil level in the pan. This will put alot of pressure on the turbo seals and you will have an oil leak in your turbo at some point because of this. I know that some people like to think that the level in the return tube would equalize with that in the pan. This is true over time but it is not instantaneous. Due to the oil always flowing, it can't equalize fast enough and backs up. This isn't water. It's thicker and slower.

There are lots of people that do send the return line below oil level. If you can get it in the pan above oil level then you'll be fine. Every single person or company that sends the return under oil level has done it wrong. Period. If they haven't hurt their turbo's oil seals yet, they will. You can count on it. It will happen. Tap the front cover. Even the Atkins supercharger taps it there. Some companies provide oil pan taps but this is only because it's cheap, relatively easy, and they'll still make money off of it. If the turbo bearings go out, they'll just claim you abused it. So much for any warranty on the turbo at that point.

 

OEM parts that work well are always better then J-rigging...

 

i tapped mine as close to the top of the pan as i could.its close to where aaron cake put his.

 

Makes more sense to install a TII front cover, this allows you to install a higher volume TII oil pump at the same time. It make it much easier to install a stock turbo considering the factory oil return line can them be used. For the oil supply line we drill and tap the front plate in the same location that it is on the TII, allowing the use of the factory oil supply as well.

 

And what is the role of the chain baffle plate?

 

Don't worry about the thin material in the pan when tapping. If you use an NPT tap, the taper will seal it up perfectly. That's one of the reasons why NPT threads where invented. There's also basically no pressure at the oil drain.

Me and SonicRat have posted oil drail locations so many times it's getting crazy. Again, here is a summary:

1. Front cover. It's always above the oil level in the pan, but it's a pain to remove and tap. No real issue with tapping it while it is on the car, but make sure to flush out the oil pan of any chips. Physical access is also a little funky.

2. Tap the oil pan. Fairly easy to do on the car, and if NPT is used it will seal well. Generally going to be below the oil level, which in my experience has not been a problem. If the tapping is done sloppy, it WILL leak due to the small amount of threads. If tapping is done carefully, it will seal very well. Need to flush the pan to remove any metal chips.

3. Bolt on a flange. Several manufacturers (ie. Russel) make flanges with AN fittings designed to be bolted to the flat side of an oil pan. You just drill a hole, drill and tap the bolt holes then bolt on the flange. The result is a -10 flare on your oil pan. Unfortunately the FC pan does not have any flat spots near the turbo area.

4. Weld on a fitting. This is my favourite. Remove the pan, drill a hole and the weld on the appropriate fitting (I usually use 1/2" NPT). Won't leak. Requires removal of the pan (perfect opportunity to install that baffle and replace the leaking gaskets). Generally places the drain location below oil level.

 

Ive decided to just buyt thii front cover and let someone install it that way I can use the stock returnn lines and the bigger oil pump.

 

good idea, crankcase pressure and oil drainage issues are a pita to fix after it's all said and done. better to do it the right way first.