People are always asking what you can get with this and I found out that would solve some peoples problems. I got this from my brothers documents. He got it from for his turbo set up and also his buddy that sold him the engine.

Your basic Turbo info
89-91 Turbo 2
Stage 1:
Estimated Boost: 8psi (5.5psi stock) Zenki
10psi (7.5psi stock) Kouki
Estimated Power: 200hp (182hp stock) Zenki
220hp (200hp stock) Kouki
1/4-mile Potential: mid to high 14's (low 15's stock)
Emissions; Not affected - will pass smog

Rewire Fuel Pump Power: Power going to the fuel pump is suspect on these cars due to age and corrosion of the wires and connectors. A rewire guarantees full voltage to the fuel pump. [MORE] An optional (more expensive) solution is to go with a fuel pump voltage regulator. Keen Bell offers their Boost-A-Pump that will ensure proper voltage levels. Others are made by MSD and B&M. If you choose this route, a rewire is not necessary.

F.C.D.: The fuel-cut defenser prevents overboost fuel-cut when running higher boost levels. The stock ECU is programmed to trigger fuel-cut when running approximately 1psi over the stock boost levels.

Air Filter: K&N offers a drop in filter replacement of your OEM stock air filter that will flow more air. K&N part number is 33-2017

Cat-Back Exhaust: A cat-back exhaust system will free up your exhaust system by replacing the restrictive Y-pipe and mufflers. Emissions is still intact. Although technically not a "cheap" purchase, the (freeing of the) exhaust system is the key to producing power on these vehicles.

Porting Stock Turbo Wastegate: The stock wastegate will be overwhelmed when exhaust is freed. This can cause uncontrolled boost creep that can damage your engine. Although labor intensive, it is a very cheap mod if you have the proper tools.

Shimming Eccentric Shaft Thermo Pellet: Not so much as a performance mods, but more for a safety precaution against a failing front eccentric shaft thermo pellet. Failure of this part will cause decreased oil pressure inside the engine.

Stage II goes into an extension of Stage I. Mods are to stress reliability and efficiency of the engine without impacting emissions; the car should still be able to pass an emissions sniffer test without any problems. Very strict visual tests would arouse suspicions.
STAGE II:
Estimated Boost: 10psi Zenki
11psi Kouki
Estimated Power: 220hp Zenki
230hp Kouki
1/4-mile Potential: low 14's
Emissions: Will pass smog sniffer tests, but questionable on a visual.

Fuel Pump Upgrade: An upgrade fuel pump guarantees fuel supply for increased power. It also prevents lean conditions due to the stock fuel pump running out of capacity when getting close to the 250hp level.

Downpipe: Replacing the stock pre-catalytic converter with a downpipe will increase engine breathing and release more power. The pre-cat is primarily for cold-start emissions but this should not affect a nsniffer test when the engine is fully warmed up properly.

Ignition CDI Box: An ignition CDI box will produce a more consistent ignition system. The stock ignition system has been known to be "weak". A crane Cams HI-6 or MSD 6A will give you a little more power (up to 5hp) across the entire RPM band, crisper throttle response, and possibly better gas mileage!

Electric Fan: The stock viscous fan can fail without warning. Installation of an electric fan will free up some of the parasitic power loss from the stock viscous fan. An electric fan is also a much more efficient method of cooling, since the fan is only active when needed.

Cone Air Filter: The stock air filter box is very restrictive. By replacing the air filter box and stock panel air filter with a cone filter, we free up the intake even more. 1986-1988 Zenki models needs to run an airflow meter adapter plate to mount a cone filter. 1989-1991 Kouki models can just clamp an air filter directly to the airflow meter.

Fuel computer: The addition of the fuel computer adds to fine-tuning the fuel delievery. This might or might not add to peak horsepower, but substantial gains are made by leaning out the midrange, as the stock ECU runs rich in these areas. One of the most popular types of fuel computers if the A'PEXi S-AFC.

There is more to come I still have like 7 more STAGES to go but i'm going to go to bed hope this helps alot of people.

 

You guys might want to read this it might give you some tips.

 

and you can also get it from fc3spro.com

 

yeah i tried bring it up from there web and it didn't work i might have a problem getting on there.
I'm not trying to copy write i just have a Blue note book with all this info on there.

 

A drop-in filter will make no difference to performance compared to a clean OEM filter. As you correctly mention, the stock airbox is very restrictive, but the filter itself not.

Actually the stock ignition system is known to be one of the strongest OEM ignition system around. Many high-powered FC's retain it and some FD owners even upgrade to it.

Generally the failure process is gradual and will only have an effect at low speed when the fan is actually required. Anyone who pays the required amount of attention to engine temp will notice this before any damage is done.

That's significantly overstating reality. The stock thermoclutch fan is only engaged when and by as much as is needed to stop temp rising. Swapping from mechanical to electric moves the parasitic loss to the alternator.

 

not to start another e-fan debate, but the stock fan really is extremely efficient.. it has no mechanical-electrictrical conversion losses, and its clutch only kicks in when idling and at very low speeds. the rest of the time it is freewheeling, like .1 hp load MAX

an e-fan will have to run even when cruising to keep temps down, unlike the stock fan.. to test this, take the stock fan off, go for a drive, keeping a steady speed and see if it starts ot overheat - which it will, meaning you will have parasitic losses ALL of the time, not just at idle

 

I'm just saying what was in there and if you think about it and not get technical on it. Alot of it is true.

 

if you don't get techincal on a lot of things they are "true"....

 

Funny, my electric fan doesn't do this...

I currently run a single 16" electric fan through a Spal FAN-PWM controller.
I like the fact I can SET my FAN-PWM controller to any temp level trigger I want to.
Can you do that with the stock fan? No.
I also run one of the biggest radiators you can stuff up into an FC front without major cutting of metal.

The electric fan never triggers while cruising on the freeway, so I dunno what the hell you're talking about.


-Ted

 

Agreed on all points. Good post.

 

well thats why you have no problems.. im talking stock radiator

 

Ummm I will post more.

 

That upgrade radiator hasn't been in the car for a year yet.
Prior to that, I was running a STOCK radiator.

I never had problems before either...

Try again.


-Ted

 

An e-fan should definitely not have to run when cruising, unless something's very wrong with your cooling system. Over ~30mph the air being pushed through the front of the car is more than any fan will pull.

 

The PO should of given credit to Ted man.

Anyways, just click on the link in RETed's signature, that'll take care of the it.