gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

Hi, i was changing pads and rotors on the back of my TII today and i went to put the caliper back on and the back sleve that the bolt that holds the caliper on sticks to far out and doesnt clear the caliper braket, i asume the sleve moves back and fourth because there is a boot on it. so should i just take a BFH (big ******* hammer) to it or is there some other way?

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

whats a sleve? are you talking about the shim that goes between the caliper and the hub? what is the sleeve you are talking about?

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

on the rear brakes their is a caliper and a caliper bracket, yes? and because it is a single piston caliper it has a slide rod on the caliper bracket that the caliper slides on releasing/or compressing the pads to the rotor, to keep the caliper from swinging up or off of the slide rod their is a retaining bolt that goes through a sleeve in the other end of the caliper and bolts to the caliper bracket, this sleeve that the bolt goes through is too far out (twords wheel vs body) of the caliper and doesnt clear the caliper bracket as I try to swing the caliper over the new brake pads and rotor.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

no ideas?

ramello

iTrader: (1)

yea look at the piston youll see two "V" shapes
use a set of pliers to grasp the piston and turn it
it will compress back in

if i understand what your asking neways....

ramello

iTrader: (1)

some pictures might help

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

sorry, i must have a bad discription and/or werid problem. I had the piston retracted already, its a sleeve that the caliper retaining bolt slides through that will not move. i'll get pictures tomarow.

certifiednut

yeah that should move easily, if it doesnt just push in by hand you should get it out of there and clean it, then lube it up with a good silicone brake lube and put it back in there, and it should go together smoothly. there should be no binding, or you might get uneven pad wear.

JYM

I had this problem..

This problem is caused because the piston has two little circles that stick out, and these "****" as you will need to be properly aligned in order to fit into the other side of the caliper. You will have to twist the piston so that they line up, in order to slide that rod through.

Hope this helps!

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

is the "****" your talking about the nubs on the brake pads that have to slide in the grove of the piston? because thats not it.

the problem is i dont know if i can get the sleeve out, because i was beating on it with a 4lb sledge and punch and it wouldnt budge.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

ok, i got a pic to show you guys what i'm talking about.

certifiednut

try and get the rubber boots off and spray some penetrating lube in there to break things loose then maybe heat the sleeve up a little with a torch, that piece definately needs to be able to move. if you need to, take the caliker all the way off the car. maybe you will be able to get a better angle on it.

Mazdanowski

Ditto, if I am picturing what you are talking about them should move relatively freely. If you take the sleeve out you may consider cleaning the inside of the housing and then putting some never seize on the bushing so it confinues to float for you.

On the race car I don't use the dust boot over the guide end of the bolt but on the street you do need to get a leak proof boot back on there or you get moisture in there and that corrosion starts up.

Musclecar

NEVER take a torch to a caliper. Id you can't convince it to move with penetrating oil and a hammer you replace the caliper.

blackedoutFC3S

iTrader: (7)

take the caliper compltely off it will make things so much easier... but penetrating oil and a hammer should do just fine

red_s5_fc3s

It looks like theres a bit of rust. I bet if you take off that rubber boot, you'll see that sleeve has gunk surrounding it. A good cleaning will be your best bet. I'd take the caliper completely off and soak that part over night. You should be able to budge it a little after that. Take out the sleeve and make sure there is no dirt, rust, or scaling inside the bore. If it's not smooth, some fine grit wet sanding will help. Clean up the bore, grease up the sleeve and put the boots back on. You should be fine.

And no more beating your calipers with a hammer and punch, you don't want to damage it and end up replacing something that could be rebuilt.

Good luck!

red_s5_fc3s

Also when you take it apart, take a look at the sleeve and make sure you didn't warp it when you were hammering it.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

damn, i really didnt want to take the caliper off. I fondeld the boot and found that there was still grease on the inside and could not get the boot off (like pressed into the same bore as the sleeve). i'm now planing on soaking the sleeve, what should i soak it in??

red_s5_fc3s

Brake parts cleaner works pretty good, but it evaporates quickly. You could try some PB Blaster.

certifiednut

I agree you should never put the heat directly to an aliminum caliper. but there is nothing wrong with heating the steel sleeve as long as you don't go crazy..


also I would say to use brake cleaner or pb blaster. either should work fairly well.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

well i let the caliper sleeves sit in a pool of PB for 3 days and then layed the beat down on it with a small hammer and it wouldnt budge, so i'm guessing new cailpers.