The sureshot definition of downpipe: It opens to 3-1/2", goes straight down, and stops.
Yes, it's WAY WAY LOUD!!

This rig is old school.
It has definitely stirred things up, and got my turbo's attention.
The S-AFC high map had to go up over 15% more to get the AFR back under control.

On the second day it blew off the waste gate hose.
I felt it & lifted at around 15 PSI! Oops..

 

I've always wonder how long one of those would last on a rx-7 that gets pushed hard on the street...

 

Where do you have that located? Directly after the turbo?

 

Yes, with the cut out aimed almost straight down.

The Y-pipe is mild steel.
The valve & shaft are stainless.
It takes about 4 seconds to open or close.
I'll be on the lookout for corrosion.

It came from www.BadlanzHPE.com

 

so its like an electronic valve that opens up the exauhst hmm... this is probly a newb question but how is this controlled? does your S-AFC have a controller for it or something? could i get on for my N/A and wire it to the TPS to oped only at WOT?

 

You need to post a vid or sound clip... Sounds bad ***

 

Used to have one of those on an n/a. I used it only once! It made the n/a sound like some ricer at the track. Super loud with nothing to back it up. I imagine it would change things up a bit with a turbo though.

 

man boost creep will be serious with that thing installed in the DP. You might want to be carefull with that. If I were you I would just build a 4 inch complete turbo back exhaust system if you want to flow more exhaust gas. Anything more than that you are going to be asking for some new apex seals if all you have controlling fuel and timing is a SAFC.

 

Boost is OK with the ported waste gate & stock turbo in warm air, but on a cold morning it does want to push up another 3PSI.

This is not going to help an NA much, since it screws up exhaust tune.
But on a turbo - Oh Yea!

Loud is fun, especially when you can turn it down at will.

 

About how long do you think the motor will last at, I mean damn thats alot of heat. And from the last time you were talking about it you said it was heavy duty. Im going to keep tabs on this.

 

All the turbo heat shields are in place.
The longest open run so far was about 3 miles crusing at 100MPH
The Y-pipe gets to a dark cherry red.
So far, so good.
The label on the actuator motor has not cooked.

The G-tech shows 233 net HP in 2nd.

 

Sweet, I was thinking about getting this for my N/A but as mentioned it just makes it really loud. Looks great, I would love to hear a sound clip or see a vid of it burning the ground.

 

must get some naassty flames down under . .would love to follow behind you and a couple wot runs. . haha

 

need sound clips or better video feed.

 

does it completely seal off the exhaust when closed? any little leaks
who sells this
thanks ty

edit i see where you got it

 

The aluminum housing has two opposing lips that the stainless door closes against.
Each goes half way around.
There are two tiny leaks at the shaft pivot points.
They are clearance to allow the door to open a full 90 degrees.
The overall total leakage is about what you would get from a 1/16" hole.

 

I want to see the flame that beast throws. my old Turbo Coupe let a pretty crazy flame go, and i even had a few feet of pipe after the DP...

-Austin

 

Update:
The open turbo exhaust doesn’t have the same pop as the NA.
But, when the boost rolls in, it gets loud as hell. YeeHaa..
I was doing a test on the 4-lane road home the other day, when a SBC with dual dumps opened up along side.
He hit it, I hit it and I couldn’t even hear him!

No problems so far with the dump valve.
I got an e-mail from the manufacturer.
Some buyers have had a problem where the actuator motor attaches to the gearbox collar.
He offered to send me the fix.
I’m impressed.
Proactive customer support is a big deal in my opinion.

The video is on hold while I troubleshoot a low fuel pressure problem.