Turbo on a non-turbo?
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Born-again Rotor-Head
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 214
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From: georgia
Turbo on a non-turbo?
Hi, I was wondering what the major differences are between the turbo and n/a 13b models? Is it possible to bolt on an aftermarket turbo on an n/a and if so what could it stand? How much boost, what would need to be changed? I know I would need some lubrication to my turbo, which means more oil lines, and a new manifold and an intercooler to say the least. Am I better off just waiting until I can buy a turbo motor for the upgrade? Thanks!
The bottom-line is yes, wait and buy a turbo. The turbo has an LSD (you may not depending on NA year/trim level) and the turbo transmission is far stronger than the NA. So for the cost of buying parts, swapping things out etc, it's cheaper and easier to start with a turbo as a base for upgrading.
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=37694
Buy a series four turbo with both intake manifolds and have at it. I finally put mine in a car after building it about a year ago. Runs just fine and dandy. Turbo rear end is not neeeded as long as you don't do repeated dumping of the clutch at high rpms.
Some fabrication of the tuirbo intake manifold to match the six ports on the engine is required but can be done with a common dremel motor and drum sander. Two cavitys on the intake manifold need to be filled in. Your choice of how. I used molten solder and others use ??????? The solder melts at 500*, a temperature that the intake manifold won't come close to meeting.
Buy a series four turbo with both intake manifolds and have at it. I finally put mine in a car after building it about a year ago. Runs just fine and dandy. Turbo rear end is not neeeded as long as you don't do repeated dumping of the clutch at high rpms.
Some fabrication of the tuirbo intake manifold to match the six ports on the engine is required but can be done with a common dremel motor and drum sander. Two cavitys on the intake manifold need to be filled in. Your choice of how. I used molten solder and others use ??????? The solder melts at 500*, a temperature that the intake manifold won't come close to meeting.
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That's not entirely true...
As for the rear end, if it can stand up to V8 conversions, it will deal with a TII/RE conversion fine.
That said, at the very least I recommend that you do use the TII transmission and a custom driveshaft to connect to the NA rear end. Many of the NA transmissions are worn at this point while the TII transmissions obviously hold up better.
As for the rear end, if it can stand up to V8 conversions, it will deal with a TII/RE conversion fine.
That said, at the very least I recommend that you do use the TII transmission and a custom driveshaft to connect to the NA rear end. Many of the NA transmissions are worn at this point while the TII transmissions obviously hold up better.
Hey, fine, you want to tell a new guy that he should do it the hard way, go for it. For all those people who just got their licenses, registered for rx7club.com and think they can do what Aaron can do need to get real. He is an expert. Considering the OP doesn't know the difference between a 13B and 13BT, I had to assume he wasn't an expert. Hell, he didn't even search. I'm just trying to be honest.
Thread Starter
Born-again Rotor-Head
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 214
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From: georgia
First, let me say that these forums seem to be incredibly noob-hostile, thanks to those that give me any credit (aaron cake and others). Second, I DID search, on rx7club and other sites, and if you guys cant agree on a straight answer to a direct question on ONE forum then how am I supposed to comb out the factual data I need from an entire network of websites that can't seem to agree?
I still haven't heard anyone mention that N/A have HIGHER COMPRESSION RATIOS, thank you ernst at rx7world, and therefore produce more power per boost than a turbo motor. That is in the realm of data that I was looking for, maybe better asked "what are the mechanical and physical differences between a turbo and a N/A rotary motor?", and I also see in hailer's posted link that there are bolt holes and manifold ports and egr/vaccuum lines etc. that also need to be plugged/drilled/tapped etc. This is the kind of technical info that I need. I appreciate any discussion as well but I really just wanted to know what the major differences of a turbo SHORT BLOCK and a N/A SHORT BLOCK. Thanks guys!
I still haven't heard anyone mention that N/A have HIGHER COMPRESSION RATIOS, thank you ernst at rx7world, and therefore produce more power per boost than a turbo motor. That is in the realm of data that I was looking for, maybe better asked "what are the mechanical and physical differences between a turbo and a N/A rotary motor?", and I also see in hailer's posted link that there are bolt holes and manifold ports and egr/vaccuum lines etc. that also need to be plugged/drilled/tapped etc. This is the kind of technical info that I need. I appreciate any discussion as well but I really just wanted to know what the major differences of a turbo SHORT BLOCK and a N/A SHORT BLOCK. Thanks guys!
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
It is polite to check the FAQ before posting, where you would have found all your answers. This is easily the most asked question on these forums, and the appropriate FAQ links have been present for 9 years...
But to answer your questions, there is nothing in common between the two blocks except for the eccentric shaft, tension bolts and front stack spacers. Turbo engines have lower compression rotors, 4 port irons, housings with coolant passages into the lower intake and no exhaust diffusers, an oil drain in the front cover for the turbo, larger oil pump, oil tap on front iron and probably a bunch of other stuff I am forgetting.
But to answer your questions, there is nothing in common between the two blocks except for the eccentric shaft, tension bolts and front stack spacers. Turbo engines have lower compression rotors, 4 port irons, housings with coolant passages into the lower intake and no exhaust diffusers, an oil drain in the front cover for the turbo, larger oil pump, oil tap on front iron and probably a bunch of other stuff I am forgetting.
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