i have a N/A glx and was wondering if a turbo kit that is ment for a tll will work on a n/a engine. if not what will need to be done so that it will work?

 

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo1.htm

Bottom line is you're better off sourcing a T2 motor of the same model year.

 

Stop posting that link! That is the worst way to boost an NA engine (unless you have welding experience), I know because I've run both setups.

There is no turbo kit because most of the TII stuff bolts on to the NA engine with little or no fabrication. If you're ballin though you can get the HIMNI racing turbo kit which would then only leave minor custom stuff required to run the setup like the intake and oil supply/drain.

 

thats the kit i was looking to get. i was thinking if i use a factory turbo exhaust manifold and turbo intake manifold. along with a turbo baffle plate, turbo front cover, OMP and the oil return line, turbo water pump and turbo ecu ill be good. hopefully lol.

 

If your running the 9.4 rotors, you'll be okay to about 8-10 psi depending on how much life is left is your apex seals. A 9.7 engine will survive at low boost, 5-6 pounds. Thing to remember, if you use the TII computer from the same year you will need the MAF, map sensor, coolant sensor, injectors and fuel rails. They are different than the NA.

 

i still don't see how it's not cheaper to buy a T2 engine

 

cuz the t2 engine are rear to come by here in pa and when u do find them the have blown seals. and want outrages amount of money for them. unless u have one laying around i can buy from u ima have to build an n/a

 

If you get the HIMNI kit it comes with its own turbo manifold with a heatshield, great setup overall. Then you'd need the TII intakes (theres a modded LIM in the FS section now) and the stuff you mentioned. You can just drill and tap the NA front cover for the drain though since the holes are already there and you don't need a turbo water pump and OMP.

For the ECU I would personally get a standalone since the 60-1 is a big upgrade from stock but you might be able to get away with an RTEK 2.0 (assuming you have an S4 from your sig).

And any difference in compression can be compensated for by E85, water/meth injection and tuning.

 

a stanalone unit sounds good. what would be a good unit?

 

Haltech and Microtech setups can be had for $500-1000 in the FS section, PowerFC setups usually run for $900+ if you want to keep the harness and OMP, megasquirt if you want to build your own. Ideally its best to find a tuner you trust and ask what he recommends but if you're not looking for every last bit of HP you can get which ever suits your budget.

 

My writeup is a bit dated, but it serves its purpose well. That is the way to make a true "turbo-NA" and not a "6 port TII". By turbo-NA I mean using a minimum of stock TII parts and fabricating the stuff necessary to make the setup work. It is, however, not the way I would recommend most people go about it.

I'm going to update that writeup shortly to include the "6 port TII" method of just bolting on TII stuff. Honestly though, if a person is buying that much TII stuff to turbocharge the NA block, buy the TII block as well.

Doing a turbo NA is not a way to save money, as most people find out. They blow a few engines because they don't have the knowledge, skill, patience, experience and logic to do it properly. They take shortcuts. Building a turbo-NA is something to be done if the person enjoys fabrication, customization and playing around mechanically. Everyone else should just do a TII swap.

And seriously, to the original poster, check the FAQ before you post.

 

so im in the proces of turboing my NA. it has the 9.7 rotors, so there would be no point in me using an aftermarket turbo right. because my engine can only handle 5-6 pounds of boost safely?? so i would be better off and cheaper to just use a stock s5 turbo right

 

Pretty much^^^^^^But that much boost is pushing it on a "good" 9.7 engine.

 

I hate when people state that "so and so pounds of boost will blow your engine". They forget always forget to mention what turbo size and setup they have/will do it, which makes me believe they have never done it or have experience with it.

Aaron Cake is running a Garrett GT40 (a pretty big beast) turbo on a bridgeport. I believe he is around 10-14psi of boost, and it's running fine. Other people have ran as much as 25psi on drag 13b's (not sure on the turbo, but must be large from my guess). All these on NA, high compression blocks.....

Then you have to think about what you are doing to cool the air charge from the turbo. Stock intercooler, front mount, water injection, methanol? Then what engine management are you using?

Even guys running stock sized turbos on N/A blocks I know are doing fine with stock boost levels and stock ECU/components, though I would advice you use a stand-alone if doing a 6port-turbo...

It's all in the way you set it up and tune the engine, but there really is no "certain psi of boost" that will blow your engine.....

 

And it may be the most "custom" way to boost the engine but not the easiest, most cost effective, safest, thermally efficient, responsive or the most reliable. That write-up scares people from boosting their NA cars because of the custom fabrication required and they end up junking it for some POS Jspec thats been sitting for 10 years. The knowledge, skill etc. can be compensated for by safeguards like less boost, more conservative tune, AI, higher octane, colder plugs, etc.

Stop posting, please. I can dig up at least 3 threads in the dyno section with 400whp+ cars on 9.7:1 rotors on at least 15 pounds of boost. You do know theres turbo RX8s with even higher compression right?

People make such a big deal out of this. You can run as much boost as the type of fuel, AI, and tune on the car allows. People that do big builds throw in 9.7s just to be different and run 15psi+ with no AI. Stop listening to internet nerds that have never done a 6 port turbo.

Alex91: Buying an aftermarket turbo would be the best decision you make. Better boost control, response and overall power. Avoid buying a stock turbo at all costs.

 

Alex91: Buying an aftermarket turbo would be the best decision you make. Better boost control, response and overall power. Avoid buying a stock turbo at all costs.[/QUOTE]

ok will do. i was just getting ready to start looking into different turbos when i came accross this thread. i have been looking into turbo maps to try and understand them. i want a smaller turbo so that its fun to just screw around, im not trying to build like a 300hp car. just something fairly quick.

 

I have/had a 6 port turbo. (It's going to get started again, bigger turbo.) I ran a gt30 knock off, ran 10-12 psi's fine all day long, with 680cc secondarys.

^^ This is with a bone stock s5 block.

Also, the front covers are the same. Just n/a's have the oil return hole filled. Easily to drill out...

 

ignore, it double posted....

 

GT35R is the perfect turbo for these cars.... : )

 

[QUOTE=jjcobm;9777362]I hate when people state that "so and so pounds of boost will blow your engine". They forget always forget to mention what turbo size and setup they have/will do it, which makes me believe they have never done it or have experience with it.

Aaron Cake is running a Garrett GT40 (a pretty big beast) turbo on a bridgeport. I believe he is around 10-14psi of boost, and it's running fine. Other people have ran as much as 25psi on drag 13b's (not sure on the turbo, but must be large from my guess). All these on NA, high compression blocks.....

Then you have to think about what you are doing to cool the air charge from the turbo. Stock intercooler, front mount, water injection, methanol? Then what engine management are you using?

Even guys running stock sized turbos on N/A blocks I know are doing fine with stock boost levels and stock ECU/components, though I would advice you use a stand-alone if doing a 6port-turbo...

yeah i definetly dont want anything that big. i was thinking something smaller so its quicker. i was planning on rteking a N370 ecu for my build.

 

i hate to thread jack..but im gonna really quick.

i just searched GT35R and i found alot of different prices. from as low as like 600 from max-redline, and as high as 1400 from garret. will the cheaper GT35R turbo be a deccent choice? or are you guys talking about the garret one?

 

JOEYFC where in PA are you. If you need help or parts for that matter hit me up. I have tons of rotary background (have barely even touched a piston motor in about 3 years) Tons of parts and have tuned tons of cars. Get at me I'm near pittsburgh (kinda) and will be moving to pittsburgh very shortly.

 

im not going to get a t2 engine. ima build an n/a cuz of the higher com. faster pick up till boost hits in. i knw pretty much what i want to do just wanted to get an idea. i dnt need people telling me to just do a t2 swap.... *calming down* lol well i have owned a few rx7s. two were t2 and three n/a. im a tech at toyota love them to death but the 7 has always caught my eye. i want to build it and take pride in doing it. so thats y i wanted to knw if that himni racing kit would fit a n/a and what would need to be done to make it fit

 

im in allentown. well 2 mins from there.... pitts is like 5 hours from me lol. but thanks ill deff hit u up. might need a few parts from u soon.

 

I am referring to boosting a stock unrebuilt engine. I build my own engines, and have turboed 9.4 and 9.7 engines. The most street hp and fun I have ever had was in a 4 port 9.4 engine running a GT35r at 15 psi. Guess what? The engine broke a brand new 2 piece carbon apex seal at 2500 miles. It happens. If you want to talk smack. Keep it to yourself, instead of posting BS.