woundup7

iTrader: (1)

Swapping a 91 Jspec engine and ecu into my 82. I was able to get the front harness and battery harness from a junk yard. That harness was cut inside the firewall above the fuse box. My question is I have all the diagrams and stuff. I bring power to the ECU via the Main relay etc. I have the body harness plug for the ecu with about 12 inches of wire on it. How important is it for all the inputs on that body harness to be powered up at the ecu. Example 1T is an ECU input, and connects to the back up light and 5th gear switch for the manual transmission. With the ignition on, and the tranny in reverse or fifth gear, it should read below 2 volts, In 1st through 4th it should read 12 volts.

Any ways there about 8 inputs for various things. clutch switch, ac relay, heat hazard sensor, mileage sensor etc. Will the ecu still function properly without these inputs. I dont feel like hooking them up if I dont have to. Is anyone else running a similiar setup. I not running a.c, power steering, or emissions on the car. Or the stock boost controller. The rest of the wiring seems pretty straight forward. Just wondering about these inputs. Thanks.

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

Somebody has to know the answer. Anyone?

HAILERS

I"d just do....1A, 1B, 1C,1G,1H, maybe 1I for tuning purposes, 1J, 1K only if you have the fuel pump resistor relay package, 1V, 2A because if the omp signal is not there/bad then the engine goes into a limpwristed mode, 2B,2C not required but helpful over the long haul, 2E, 2F, 2G, 2H, 2I(gotta have that ref voltage for the sensors or the engine won't work, 2K, 2L, 2M (why not, only one wire) but not required for running, 3A, 3B, 3C, 3D, 3E, 3G, 3H, 3K, 3M you can do without if you plumb the fpr directly to a solid vacuum source, 3Q the bac is your friend even though my leaving out pins that related to headlights etc make it less usable, 3S, 3T, 3U, 3V. About these last four. I hope your aware you need that omp to work or the car will fall on its butt, 3W, 3X, 3Y, 3Z

If it's not listed, forget about it for now at least. DISCLAIMER: I've never set eyes on a series five. BUT at one time, for grins, I put a series four ECU in a 82 just to run the ignition. Hey, at least it ran..

HAILERS

Another thing. I would not pursue this project unless I had a series five wiring diagram/schematic. NO way. I don't have access to a series five wiring diagram anymore so I can't help much in that respect. You need the diagrams so you KNOW exactly where the other end of each of those pins terminates. You don't want to chance grounding out a wire spliced into pin 2I. That would result in a cooked ECU.

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

I was able to copy all the wiring diagrams from a FSM that a local mazda mechanic was nice enough to let me borrow. I am not worried about the 2 and 3 pins because i have a complete engine harness just plug it in. Yes I am totally aware of the electric oil metering pump and they need to keep in plugged in. Thanks for looking out for me. My plan was to zip tie in a upright position. I am planning on wiring up the green test plugs.
Probably not going to use the fuel pump relay and resistor package. What about the starter cut relay. It looks like it runs through the cpu and is part of the theft deterrent system? I dont plan on using it. I like to keep it simple.

Does the S-4 have all the same INPUTS from switches to worry about. Also I am not running any emission equipment. I plugged the fpr into a vacuum port on the intake. All the dissconnect sensors and plugs? I read just toss the sensors and dont worry about the plugs on the harness. I was just going to pull them out of the harness and hide them under the dash next to the ECU,but not cut the wires. Thanks

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

Bump Anyone else?

Steel

you can also download the fsm. Let's not forget that fact. I'm in the proccess of printing it. It's freaking huge. I got yelled at by the librarian at my school and kicked out after i used up a whole ream of paper and ran the toner out.

And im printing front to back.

HAILERS

The Starter Cutn Relay is strictly for theft protection.

On a normal car the disconnected sensors would maybe throw a code. That ain't a gonna happen on your 82

None of the things I ommitted would give the ECU heartburn. Just leave the plugs off the items not wired

OH. I assumed it was turbo, but it isn't is it??????? Then you've got to consider the VDI and the auxillary ports and a source of pressure to operate them. Like the airpump.

So is it turbo or non turbo?

Sensors???? No. I think your going to connect to all the sensors. The afm, tps, water thermo sensor, air intake sensor, cas. Your not going to connect to things like the split air solenoid, port air solenoid, switching solenoid, relief solenoid, the turbo whateveritscalled solenoid.

EDIT: I see. I re-read your thread and couldn't see whether it was turbo or not, then glanced again and saw the TITLE to your thread. Sorry, retarded here.

A direct feed for the fpr is best. I really don't understand the 1/100th percent of the time it gets energized (hot start). When it does that, it means as long as the solenoid is energized the fuel pressure in the rail will be HIGHER than normal at idle. I think it gets energized for something like fifty seconds during hot starts. When cranking , being energized/not energized, matters not, because there's not enough vacuum to matter anyway (to influence the fpr). Just ranting. Pay no attention

There's not much difference b/t series four vs series five except the omp and boost controller on a series five.

The key inputs are the same. CAS, water thermo sensor, afm, air temp sensors, boost/pressure sensor.

About your first post: The part about the fifth gear and how the voltage drops to less than two when engaged...........Not to worry. When the car is put in fifth, a ground is put on that circuit that drops the voltage from 12v to less than two. Which in turn tells the ECU to command the Split Air Solenoid to engage. Bottom line...you won't have a split air solenoid when you get done so don't worry about the fifth gear switch/reverse switch and its influence on the ECU.

The milage sensor is not used after 20,000 miles. Emission related.

A/C input is for jacking the bac's output up to cover the extra load.

Heat Hazard signal ....emissions related. You said you won't have a relief solenoid etc.

None of the wires I did not mention/list have the slightest effect by being gone (considering you won't be having emissions equipment.

HAILERS

Cars that don't have the theft protection, which in turn means they don't have the starter cut relay, have in place of the relay itself, a jumper plug to connect to the harness plug. It jumpers two wires in the harness together. On a series four it would be the black/white wire to the black/green.

The black/white goes to the starter solenoid. The black/green comes from the clutch interlock switch and feeds off the ignition switch when you put it to START.

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again. I 'am definately not running emissions euipment so it sounds like the majority of the aux inputs I dont have to worry about. I am running my stock 82 harness to the starter. which is currently mounted to my 82 transmission. I do have the s-5 counter weight. but I am currently using my rb aluminum flywheel and clutch setup for a 82 215 mm. I am aware of the differences between turbo clutches and na clutches, I'am also aware my tranny will probably last about two hours, but I just spent about 750 buck on the clutch setup. Anyways I assuming when you said to jumper the harness you are using a t-2 starter and tranny?

Another question. The switch on the clutch pedal which feeds 1Q clutch depressed it should read below 2 volts, clutch released it should read 12 volts. If I dont wire this in to the ecu will it engage some kind of injector or coil lock out, kinda like an inhibitor switch on a auto tranny. Are you using it on your ecu. This is the input I'am most concearned about.

Did you wire in some inline fuses on 1A, 1B, 1C, If so what sizes I cant find any specifics, I am assuming 1B is pushing some amperage, compared to the other two.

Once again thanks

HAILERS

****Another question. The switch on the clutch pedal which feeds 1Q clutch depressed it should read below 2 volts, clutch released it should read 12 volts. If I dont wire this in to the ecu will it engage some kind of injector or coil lock out, kinda like an inhibitor switch on a auto tranny. Are you using it on your ecu. This is the input I'am most concearned about.
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No way Jose. You are smarter than the average bear to ask. Trust me on that one for sure.


****Did you wire in some inline fuses on 1A, 1B, 1C, If so what sizes I cant find any specifics, I am assuming 1B is pushing some amperage, compared to the other two.
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Remember I did this several years ago, and only for kicks. A new/used 87na got in the way of this project and it went fallow. BUT for IB I was picking off power from my 82 coils wiring. The 1A I forget where I got that from. Acutally if power is removed from 1A I've found the car/engine still runs. Odd thing that. Try it sometime in the future AFTER you get things up and running.

The pin 1B.... It should be fused. ON a series four, it s fused by a 40amp fuse in the engine fuse box. With you not running the emissions, it should be pulling a touch less amperage, but the injectors are still in the circuit.

The flywheel stuff I know even less about.

I kinda wish I'd kept the 82 and done a swap. It sounds like fun.

On a series four car, the equivalent of 1A, is protected by a 7.5 amp fuse. The power on a series four runs from a 60a fuse in the engine fuse box, to the 7.5a fuse then to the ECU pin 1A. It seems to be some type of backup power.

HAILERS

I'd bet 1Q, if you looked at a series five schematic, will tee off to the cruise control box, to disengage cruise.

I have no series five schematic right now.

HAILERS

I looked at F1-40 of the 89plus fsm, online, and the clutch switch has some influence on the AWS system. Your not going to have a working AWS, so it seems your *good to go*.


Take a look at page F1-76 of the same fsm/year. That is the RELATIONSHIP CHART.
It shows the clutch switch effects the following: Fuel injection amount, fuel pump resistor relay, A/C relay, split air solenoid, switching solenoid, relief solenoid, aws, fpr solenoid, bac, igniter(trailing), igniter(leading). As to how much it effects each and whether it effects it with the pedal in or out, is not determined.

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again, for doing this swap years ago, doesn't look like you forgot anything. Your right about 1Q it tees in between the clutch switch and the cruise control unit. Question so when that swith close by pressing in the clutch pedal, Does that circiut go to ground and that is what reduces the voltage to less than 2volts, or should i just shut up and go stack b.b's in the corner.?. Weird thing on the S-5 main fuse block on the strut tower there is a the spot marked EGI Comp 30A and EGI INJ 40A But the plug plugs into both spade connectors on the bottom of fuses, Only the EGI 30A has wires coming out of it, the 40 A slot was empty when I pulled the harness, But there are definately two wires coming off of the 30A spade. Weird any input
Thanks

HAILERS

Yes. The ground just pulls the 12v down to less than two volts or so. While the Relagtionship Chart seems to make that 1Q very important......it isn't if you don't have emissions solenoids. I'd forget about 1Q.

No, I probably am the one who should be playing with the BB's and the marbles that fell out of my head.

I'll look at my series four fuse box. Yours sounds......strange. Off to work now.