Turbo dumb (redux) !
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Turbo dumb (redux) !
Ok, I still am trying to set my car up to run the T04. So today I was trying to find the right manifold and went to SS autochromes site. While looking at the manifold, I saw that they had a wastegate attached, I dont know anything about wastegates and realizes that one side has an opening like it attaches to something else. Can someone tell me where it goes? Not the part thats attached to the manifold the part that has bolts attached to nothing.
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Thanks guys, the info was truly informative.
Also if I have an external wastegate like this, of what benefit would a boost controller be? Don't they essentially do the same thing?
Also if I have an external wastegate like this, of what benefit would a boost controller be? Don't they essentially do the same thing?
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 07-07-07 at 10:01 AM. Reason: Merge two posts
#6
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boost controller if you just want to increase boost, and basically have two settings between high and low settings. Low setting basically depend on ur wastegate spring pressure. Also you wastegate could be an open wastegate, have dump tube or recirculate back into the DP. Its quieter to recirculate back into your dp.
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Also if I have an external wastegate like this, of what benefit would a boost controller be? Don't they essentially do the same thing?
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Loads of people make TO4 manifolds to fit our cars. All the vendors have them from various large aftermarket companies (such as HKS) and smaller fabrication shops as well. A good manifold will never be cheap, unless you make it yourself. Even then it's not really "cheap" unless you have all the equipment and don't consider your time valuable.
As for the wastegate debate, it really depends on how much you like noise. An open vented wastegate is VERY LOUD when it opens up. In my opinion it's fun for about 10 seconds and then you get really tired of waking the dead everytime you get into the throttle. Just remember that when you plumb the wastegate dump into the downpipe, it needs to meet a shallow angle. If it meets at a sharp angle like most do, flow is seriously compromised.
The best type of boost controller is an electronic controller that can keep the wastegate totally closed until just before the desired boost level is reached, and then modulate it to maintain that boost. Of course electronic controllers are about 10x the price of the simple mechanical controllers. But they are more reliable, tend not to spike, and give you better control.
Edit...."Noise", not "nose".
As for the wastegate debate, it really depends on how much you like noise. An open vented wastegate is VERY LOUD when it opens up. In my opinion it's fun for about 10 seconds and then you get really tired of waking the dead everytime you get into the throttle. Just remember that when you plumb the wastegate dump into the downpipe, it needs to meet a shallow angle. If it meets at a sharp angle like most do, flow is seriously compromised.
The best type of boost controller is an electronic controller that can keep the wastegate totally closed until just before the desired boost level is reached, and then modulate it to maintain that boost. Of course electronic controllers are about 10x the price of the simple mechanical controllers. But they are more reliable, tend not to spike, and give you better control.
Edit...."Noise", not "nose".
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 07-07-07 at 10:36 AM.
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Well I went to HKS's website and only seen manifolds for 93 up, so if you have links to something that would be great. (though if not I will sniff it out eventually), Also I notice the FD one was $400 dollars, at what point are you just raping yourself, I mean this is a driver, not a racecar. 30 minute drives, not 24 hours of lemans.
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http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/st...-91%20rx-7.htm
Just found that one poking around...
The HKS cast and greddy cast mani's are available for the FC, just have to find them....I thought speed machine carried them but I checked their site and don't list them any more.
On a side note $400 for a manifold is going to be chicken feed compared to what you'll spend on the rest of the setup (turbo, exhaust, management, fuelling, cooling, etc) so if your comment about that is serious, you may want to re-think your direction on the project.
Just found that one poking around...
The HKS cast and greddy cast mani's are available for the FC, just have to find them....I thought speed machine carried them but I checked their site and don't list them any more.
On a side note $400 for a manifold is going to be chicken feed compared to what you'll spend on the rest of the setup (turbo, exhaust, management, fuelling, cooling, etc) so if your comment about that is serious, you may want to re-think your direction on the project.
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okay that one is tubular, not cast. As far as cooling, management, turbo , exhaust, I have all that already, just need the manny and a set of 750's and I'm good to go. But thanks, I know I'll find the right manny eventually.
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Check out eBay.
Used ones come up for sale pretty often.
If you're worried about $300 for the manifold, you really shouldn't be doing this.
A good wastegate is going to cost you about the same.
Fuel upgrades around going to cost you several hundred.
A fuel controller several hundred more.
FMIC at least a couple hundred with pipes.
Then, you'd need to make a custom adapter for the downpipe for the exhaust.
Intake, etc...
You're looking at...at least a couple grand, if not more to do this correctly.
-Ted
Used ones come up for sale pretty often.
If you're worried about $300 for the manifold, you really shouldn't be doing this.
A good wastegate is going to cost you about the same.
Fuel upgrades around going to cost you several hundred.
A fuel controller several hundred more.
FMIC at least a couple hundred with pipes.
Then, you'd need to make a custom adapter for the downpipe for the exhaust.
Intake, etc...
You're looking at...at least a couple grand, if not more to do this correctly.
-Ted
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Ok, let me iron this put one last time, I'm no so much worried about the money as I am overspending on parts unnecessarily. Sort of like the government paying 2000 dollars for a 20 dollar hammer. Know what I mean. When your just getting in to it, it's so easy to overspend because your not sure what exactly you need, later after you've experienced it all you may say the part you paid $200 for works just as well as the $100 dollar version. Thats all I'm saying. You know you guys sound a little negative, how bout some positive words as well like " You can do it!!!!"
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The reason we sound like this is because we've been through it.
Like I said before, CHEAP WILL BITE YOU IN THE ***.
It's up to you if you want to take the chance a part will fail and possibly kill your engine.
-Ted
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Well we wont get into a pissing contest, but I'm sure you know the best parts fail too, also at times causing catastrophic failure. Maybe you should know I've already spent 6500 dollars on this car aside from it's original purchase price and have only driven it around the block with the oem turbo blown. By the time I get done it's total cost will be upward of 10,000 dollars on build alone. Now try this being a dumb worker making 14.35 an hour, who has a stay at home wife and two kids. The only thing people in my position have is hope, and those who have been through this a thousand times are so quick to cast negativity to it. I again thank you for your response and have learned something on the quality of manifolds, nuff said.
#22
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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Yeah I know.....but thats an example of one that works. You seem to be concerned with "over spending" so there ya go, theres a good alternative.
The cast mani's are great, I use a Greddy one. But if this project is "just 30 min drives" why not use something cheaper? You don't want to "overspend" do you?
Yes, you can do it, this is not an overly complex process. But it does cost a good chunk of bread and the item the you rely on to support your turbo charger and feed it exhaust gases while nearly at melting temperature isn't something I'd skimp on. There's other areas where money can be saved...
The cast mani's are great, I use a Greddy one. But if this project is "just 30 min drives" why not use something cheaper? You don't want to "overspend" do you?
Yes, you can do it, this is not an overly complex process. But it does cost a good chunk of bread and the item the you rely on to support your turbo charger and feed it exhaust gases while nearly at melting temperature isn't something I'd skimp on. There's other areas where money can be saved...
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I've paid $9k for my FC used.
I've poured over $10k into the car, and it's still a piece of ****.
I spent around $3,000 just to "rebuild" the engine once - original housings and rotors were reused.
I have a $600 XS Engineering cast turbo exhaust manifold sitting in my room.
I have a $700 HKS 50mm Race wastegate sitting in my room.
The $100 eBay FMIC is mounted in the car, but it's not connected to anything.
The $1,300 Haltech E8 is installed and running the car at this point.
I have a T04E "46" that I paid $400 from eBay sitting in my room - dunno if I'm going to use this or not, cause it's a bit too small.
As you can see, this is not chump change unless you're a millionaire.
Reading your last reply, I'd suggest you seriously think about what you're trying to do.
Your family should be your FIRST priority - not the car.
If you are still serious about doing this, I would get real good at eBay.
Spotting good deals is an art, and you can get away with bargains if you can spot them and get lucky.
A cast HKS or GReddy turbo exhaust manifold typically goes for $100 - $200.
A Tial 44mm wastegate goes for about $300 - this would be the absolutely CHEAPEST option I would go.
FMIC should be $100 shipped.
FMIC pipes under $200 shipped...
Used upgrade fuel injectors easily available...
Upgrade fuel pumps all over the place...
The budget still easily breaks $1,000, cause you need to factor in miscellaneous bits and custom welding and fabrication.
I've got nothing against you hoping.
There's a problem when your hope is actually a pipe dream.
THOUSANDS of people ask the same questions you're asking now.
Seriously, maybe 10% actually complete this project.
Which makes you against the odds...
-Ted
I've poured over $10k into the car, and it's still a piece of ****.
I spent around $3,000 just to "rebuild" the engine once - original housings and rotors were reused.
I have a $600 XS Engineering cast turbo exhaust manifold sitting in my room.
I have a $700 HKS 50mm Race wastegate sitting in my room.
The $100 eBay FMIC is mounted in the car, but it's not connected to anything.
The $1,300 Haltech E8 is installed and running the car at this point.
I have a T04E "46" that I paid $400 from eBay sitting in my room - dunno if I'm going to use this or not, cause it's a bit too small.
As you can see, this is not chump change unless you're a millionaire.
Reading your last reply, I'd suggest you seriously think about what you're trying to do.
Your family should be your FIRST priority - not the car.
If you are still serious about doing this, I would get real good at eBay.
Spotting good deals is an art, and you can get away with bargains if you can spot them and get lucky.
A cast HKS or GReddy turbo exhaust manifold typically goes for $100 - $200.
A Tial 44mm wastegate goes for about $300 - this would be the absolutely CHEAPEST option I would go.
FMIC should be $100 shipped.
FMIC pipes under $200 shipped...
Used upgrade fuel injectors easily available...
Upgrade fuel pumps all over the place...
The budget still easily breaks $1,000, cause you need to factor in miscellaneous bits and custom welding and fabrication.
I've got nothing against you hoping.
There's a problem when your hope is actually a pipe dream.
THOUSANDS of people ask the same questions you're asking now.
Seriously, maybe 10% actually complete this project.
Which makes you against the odds...
-Ted
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Now that sounded better. Trust that my family is first, thats why I must be budget friendly in building the car. Now this is what I can tell you:
1. This car will get done, when you spend this much money and deny yourself luxuries as I have, then backing out is akin to suicide, simply not an option.
2.No one knows everything the first time around, so I am glad I have the imput of people like you, the comments are evaluated and weighed out on my final decision.
3. I do ebay so much you would think my mom bought me there(she got screwed!), so I know how to search a bargain.
4. The entry level rx7 owners can lose hope in their cars if they think it cost 15,000 dollars to upgrade it, we must provide them the hope to maintain their cars alive instead of having a go big or go home attitude. This is what will keep the enthuiast rx7 on the road and seperate the "I saw a drift movie and want an fc" guys from the ones that truly love this car.
Again thank you, and my turbo is bigger than yours!! j/k
1. This car will get done, when you spend this much money and deny yourself luxuries as I have, then backing out is akin to suicide, simply not an option.
2.No one knows everything the first time around, so I am glad I have the imput of people like you, the comments are evaluated and weighed out on my final decision.
3. I do ebay so much you would think my mom bought me there(she got screwed!), so I know how to search a bargain.
4. The entry level rx7 owners can lose hope in their cars if they think it cost 15,000 dollars to upgrade it, we must provide them the hope to maintain their cars alive instead of having a go big or go home attitude. This is what will keep the enthuiast rx7 on the road and seperate the "I saw a drift movie and want an fc" guys from the ones that truly love this car.
Again thank you, and my turbo is bigger than yours!! j/k
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