mazda se

iTrader: (1)

Im having a problem with my alt. wires.My car is an 88 n/a the doner car is also an 88.The alt. wire on the n/a runs through the emission wiring harness.I noticed on the tII it runs into the main body harness that goes in the driver side of the fire wall.How do i go about hooking my alt. wires up.Do i have to take out the wiring that goes behind the dash or is there another way.Any input would be great.

HAILERS

EDITED for mistakes. Later..

HAILERS

1. The connector you should be interested in is in the attached jpg. It's X-15.

2. The JPG shows the male and female parts of X-15. Your only interested in the {EM} connector.

3. The small connector on the back of the alt has a BW and a WB wire that are fed from the {F} part of the X-15 plug.

4. You need to run the two wires from the alt small plug to the EM part of the plug where the jpg shows a BrR and a BrB wire already exist.

5. I'd cut those two wires about six inches from the EM connector and splice in two wires and run them to the small plug on the back of the alternator.

6. As shown in the jpg, the BrR wire that you will cut should be connected to the BW wire at the small connector at the alternator. The BrB wire that you cut should go to the WB wire at the small plug at the back of the alternator.

There's other ways to do this. You could just run two new wires to the back of the alt. One a switched 12v and the other going to the wire on the CPU that turns on and off a relay that makes the idiot lights come and go when the alt is not putting out.

HAILERS

Just FYI... the BrB wire was used as a gound for the boost gauge and the BrR wire was the boost gauge input. You most likely opted not to swap out the combination meter ....I hope not at least. Nothing to be gained...a volt meter to be lost if you do that.

What the YW, GB, did/do in life .......I didn't bother looking up. They will be deadended in the EM harness as things stand . I might look them up for fun later. maybe/maybe not.

HAILERS

YW is the feed for the water temp gauge on a turbo but this water temp signal is sent from X-16 on a non turbo....so no sweat.

GB was/is for the water temp sw for the electrical fan relay on a turbo. Same wire goes to X-16 on a non turbo. DONE.

mazda se

iTrader: (1)

Those are the 2 orange plugs on the emission wiring right??And when i the alt wires up this way you are saying i am going to loose the factory volt meter right??I hate doing this wiring stuff!!

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Check harnesses.

I compared my NA to TII harness to see which was which.

The TII has a volt meter wire available but you have to pslice into it.

I forget which ones though since I did the wiring part of the conversion almost a year ago.

I still have the stock voltage guage in mine.

HAILERS

No, I didn't mean to imply that you'd lose the volt meter.

I just am saying that your alternators small plug has two wires.

One wire is BW or black with a white stripe. Another wire with a WB or white wire with a black stripe.

You need to run those two wires from the small plug to the X-15 connector.

You attach those wires to the ones I stated in the above post of mine. Use a simple butt splice and splice them to the existing wires in those two spots.

Those two spots are now being occupied by two wires that were meant for a boost gauge for a turboii. Your keeping your existing combination meter which does not have a boost gauge.

Since you have a nonturbo front harness (the one inside the car that runs from one side to the other), if you splice the BW and the WB wires from the alternator as I described, then your alternator will work just fine and dandy.

I''ll look into the volt meter issue later. I don't think your going to lose that in any way or fashion.

Its just wire. A piece of metal covered with insulation that runs from one point to the other.

HAILERS

I just looked. The volt meter has squat to do with the emissions harness. It will still work as normal.

Yes, the plug described as X-15 is inside the car on the passengers side and a part of the EM harness. Just look at the colors at each pin in the jpg, and look at your harness. They will match with the exception of four wire colors. The ones I mentioned in an above post.

HAILERS

Or you could just look at this attached JPG.

Run the BW wire to a switched voltage source nearby. Nearby would be a wire on the plug on the left strut tower that was meant for the adjustable suspension. All cars have this plug. Most don't have the adjustable suspension. So that plug is attached to the left strut tower and is wide open. One wire is a switched 12v. Meaning when the key is to ON one wire has 12v on it. Key to OFF and the wire has no voltage.

Then run the WB wire inside the car and attach it to the CPU at pin K. There should already be a wire in pin K. It should be......a WB or white/black wire. Done.

mazda se

iTrader: (1)

cool.Thanks alot.That helped a **** load.I was going crazy trying to find how to do this.Now i got to put the motor in the car noe and some other goodies.Thanks for the info.