Dan Zimmermann

The car is a 87 RX7 non turbo. I swopped the motor with a stock 13B purchased from one of those online sites that promises the motor is low mileage from Japan. The motor is in the car with a stock N327 ECU and after some initial problems with it not starting (replaced primary injectors) it now starts and runs but not very well. It runs rough at idle, like the timing is off, though any changes I make to timing only make it worse. I have tried moving the CAS forward and back one tooth at time to no avail. At best it runs rough and will only idle at about 2000 rpm. When I try to drive it, it doesn't have much power and seems to be kind of missing and chugging until the rpm's come up. Every now and then it seems to hit a sweet spot and sounds like it's trying to run right. When I hit 3500 rpm and the secondarys kick in, it takes off and seems to run fine. All the emmissions equipment has been removed from the motor to include the CAT from the exhaust. All the vaccuum lines that are not used are as best I can tell, capped off. I have a N326 ECU for a turbo motor, would that help make it run any better, although I don't see how it would help? The motor is not smoking out the exhaust so their claims for it being a low mileage motor may be true. I have not been able to get any codes off the ECU because there isn't a test box in town that works. The local dealership won't touch the car because of all the mods (removal of all emmissions equipment) that have been done to it. Is there any hope getting this thing running right without the emmissions stuff on it? I don't have any of that stuff to put it back on. Help!

John64

Swopped, is that like a turbo or lapping the housings?

RotaryX

Check the primary injectors. If it runs fine after 3500 then it might just be the primaries. Also have you adjusted the tps at all? What’s the compression?

Dan Zimmermann

Have not adjusted the tps and don't know how. The primary injectors are new and as far as I know I installed them correctly. (It's a no brainer isn't it?) Haven't checked the compression but don't have reason to believe it's low. Does it take special equipment to check the compression other than a normal compression tester? Any special procedures? I'm leaning towards a vaccum leak. What do you think?

Dan Zimmermann

Swapped: changed out, replaced, removed old, put in newer...swapped. Action verb. The act of swapping one thing for another. Misspelled the first time...my bad!

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Go ahead and check the compression, its easy to do. Its prob not the problem, but it can keep you from going on a wild goose chase if it is.

RotaryX

Sorry, meant to say secondarys.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

im not sure i understand your setup, is it a turbo charged engine in a non turbo car??are you using turbo manifolds,and sensors??

is it setup to run NA or is the turbo attached still??

n236 is a NA ecu, just like the n327

if the engine is turbocharged, with turbo II manifolds and sensors and t2 injectors, then it wont run right with the NA ecu.

Dan Zimmermann

This is a non turbo motor and non turbo car. My understanding is, based on a web site I looked at, that the N327 ECU is for a non turbo motor. The junk yard I got the N327 agreed. Can anyone confirm or deny? I'm thinking this is a vacuum leak or, only one primary injector is working. Thoughts?

SureShot

What you describe sounds like one rotor is misfiring at low revs.

After a 5 minute fast idle test, check the leading plugs. They should look exactly the same.

If not, swap the leading plug wires & repeat the test.
(The leading plugs fire in tandem, so the wires can be swapped)
If the misfire moves the wire or coil could be weak.

I hate to say this, but it's more likely one of the primary injectors is still bad.

Dan Zimmermann

http://www.ecudirect.com/finditfast/

This is the web site I was talking about that says the N327 is for a standard setup and the 326 is for turbo.

I am also leaning towards one of the injectors is bad. I can get a screw driver to the front primary under the manifold. With the screw driver on the injector it sounds like it is clicking (firing) but I can't get anything on the back one.

I don't mind changing the injectors, I just wish there was a way to tell if one is bad or not without simply replacing one and seeing if that makes a diff.

I would also like to know what to look for on adjusting the tps and the mixture screw on the top of the throttle boddy. Where is the tps exactly?

Dan Zimmermann

I took one of the secondary injectors and swapped it with one of the primarys. There was no improvement in how it ran. I will replace the primarys one more time and see what happens. If nothing else I'm getting good at taking the intake manifold off.

SureShot

Since you have done an injector swap with no improvement, maybe the harness or connector is bad.
You can back probe the injector pins at the ECU to verify the harness.

I clipped this from Kevin Landers site http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/
ECU Part Numbers (this is the version # that's on the ECU itself)
84-85 GSL-SE N304 18 880A
86-87 NA N326 18 880, N3Y6 18 880
87 Turbo N332 18 880
88 NA N327 18 880
88 Turbo N333 18 880
88 Convertible N338 18 880
89 NA California N350 18 880
89 NA Fed. N351 18 880
89 Conv. CA N352 18 880
89 Conv. Fed. N353 18 880
89 Turbo N370 18 880

adrock3217

Err, it's obviously not from Japan, if it's NA..

Don't know if anyone noted on that? They only made Turbo FC's in Japan..