Kanaida

So my friend came over last night and we were continuing the ever long process of installing all my stuff. Finishing the turbo timer, starting the elec. boost controller, and finishing the fuel injectors (need huge o-rings!). He drives a Mercury Capri XR2 which is a turbo charged capri, but uses the EXACT same motor from the 89 turbocharged mazda 323. He has got this thing done up every which way and was running 12's last summer. Now he's upping the boost and fuel and whatnot- SO- he needs some sort of engine management. He found this site - www.reichracing.com - and they dropped in a computer chip into his stock ecu and hook up a piggy back to it, and now he can modify just about anything with a laptop! Just about anything you can do with a haltech, except for only 300 dollars and uses his stock ecu! It's insane! Why the **** is this not done more often!? I checked out the website. Most of the stuff is under construction, but it doesn't look like they do any other mazda stuff. Just that engine (323/capri). is this not reliable or has no one heard of doing this? what's up?
NEXT:
Boost controller.
So, here we are droppin' in the Profec B, and it wants us to remove the stock controller (which we're pretty sure we found next to the oil filler neck) and then it wants to be connected to my fuel pressure lines too! why? Because it's also a fuel pressure regulator along with a boost controller! WHAT?! That's crazy! This thing is well worth the damn 300 I spent on it! My question is, I know it's gonna suck more fuel into the rails, but is that gonna interfere with my tuning with my afc? I mean, I don't want to push a certain amount of fuel out the injectors, only to have the profec pull more fuel into the rails and have some sort of prob where I start running really rich. Just looking for confirmation and confidence in my product I guess. Any leads on that or the ecu subject are welcome for discussion.

FINALLY only about 2 weeks away from driving my car!!! (I work too damn much-****, I should be working on the car now, not on the damn net!)

-Kanaida

Rpeck

Take the "Street Glow Gold Series Neo Blue Underbody Neon Kit" Off the car and I will anwser some questions for you. Let me know once it's been removed.


Robert

Wazabee

whoa! Escudo!!!!! XD if that 300 bux will get me an ecu that has the tunability of haltech, i'll try it out heheheh..

Kanaida

hey Robert, I've had that on there for like... ****, since last summer.. And you've already helped me out on other occasions, so you might as well give in again. And besides, how am I gonna make it into Fast & Furious 3 if I don't have neon?! oh... I see... it's your jealousy showing through.....

K

Jaared

im gonna drive my hotrod to 2F2F... and not even go in and watch the crap *** movie..

I plan on slashing everyones tires that has neons, a big *** wing, a honda emblem, or "euro" lights.

I wont say im sorry, hell i dont care. Thats what you get.

Then after the mayham ill say it was me and leave half gassin it and no one will catch up to me. lol no honda anyway. It runs a low 11 on cheater slicks.

Ill leave the fc out of it, as long as you dont park with all the ricers and lean on your car talkin smack to every one.

Rpeck

I have a reprogramed ECU from EL Prototypes on my car. It is that same theroy as the ECU you mention but it cannot be programed on the fly, it's a drop in chip replacement. I assume that the reason you cannot program the RX7 ECU's on the fly is a technology limitaion of the chips themselves. Or the lack of a market to make it possible.

As for the Profec B I have never worked with one. But I have never heard of a Boost controller doing anything with the fuel system. The way a boost controller works is very simplistic, maybe someone who has one can chime in here, but I would re read the directions, and application chart.


Robert

1FastT2

iTrader: (1)

For the boost controller install, all its asking is for a vacuum source, its giving the fuel pressure regulator as an example of where you will be able to get the vacuum source from. It does not at all modify the fuel pressure regulator signal.

My opinion on the Haltech thing, I dought it can do all the things that a Haltech can do.

pengarufoo

It's simply not ideal to try on the stock FC ECU/harness. If the FC had speed/density stock then it would be worth researching a way to modify the stock ecu into being something programmable, or at least something that plugs right into the stock harness like the powerfc on the FD.... which is a viable solution with the FD being speed/density stock.

NZConvertible

Those sorts of units are still nowhere near as good as a proper aftermarket ECU. You're still dealing with a the original computer and it's 15yo technology, they can't give the same tuning resolution and aren't configurable to do the many other things full EMS's can do. Yes, they're a cheap alternative, but they can't be compared. As mentioned above, fuel pressure is not controlled. The boost controller needs a manifold pressure signal to be able to control boost. On a piston engine the FPR is usually easily accessible, but on 13BT's there are much easier places to get a manifold pressure, like the line to the pressure sensor or BOV. Either will work just as well as the FPR line, but won't require UIM removal to get to.

Kanaida

Jaared:
That's just sad man... It's sad you would take time to do that, and it's sad that you would **** with another man's car. Even though I'm sure you're just playing. Still, meaningless input to the thread. I can't even describe how rediculous it would be if you weren't playing around.

ecu:
Yeah, I figured it wouldn't be as precise as say a haltech. But he can at least modify his fuel map and ****, which is the essential piece. I just thought it was pretty fly to be able to do that for 3 bills. Then again, we can just buy an afc. His engine doesn't meet the programability of the afc though, so that's why he chose another route. We'll see how it pans out. He has yet to drive it/tune it.

EBC:
well ****! I was so hyped about it. How depressing. No fuel pressure regulator... Oh well. one less thing to have to worry about I suppose. So all it does really want is vac? That's cool. I can do that. ****, I already have my uim apart because I'm doing my injectors, so it's not so bad getting to the fpr. But I still have to remove the stock boost control solenoid. (or at least, that's what Haynes calls it - They really don't do a detailed explaination of the turbo and the accessories of it like bov/wastegate/boost regulator) It's a little funky lookin' piece by the oil filler neck. Okay, so I'll re-read what the **** the instructions say about the pressure regulator, and probably save myself alot of time and anger by getting vac from the bov. I'll let you all know if it all blows up.

-K

Chris Ng

You have an s4 motor, you do not have a boost solenoid to remove...

Boost on the stock turbos are controlled by an actuator type wastegate system...

Kanaida

haynes manual - pg. 146
"When checking the turbocharger control system, detach the green electrical connector - when checking the solenoid valve, attach a voltmeter to the LB terminal, as shown"

pg. 144 under "Control System Check" it reads:
After warming the engine - "stop the engine, detach the green electrical connector from the turbocharger solenoid valve (see illustration) and verify the control rod returns to its original position."

So here is what reads in the instructions for the profec. There are multiple diagrams, all for certain kinds of wastegates.
#1 is for poppet valves, and I know that's not me because it shows in the diagram a big external wastegate.
#2 "swing valve" and shows a wastegate almost like what ours looks like, but not quite. It shows a boost regulating solenoid valve and shows it being blocked off. 2 hoses come from the solenoid, one going to the wastegate and one going to just infront of the turbo. I don't think it's ours.
#3 "swing valve" is the same as #2, except that the boost regulator hooks up to a hose that leads to the wastegate in a different way. It's just about the same as #2.

That is it! There only those 3 diagrams. Therefore, we have to have a boost regulating solenoid valve, or "turbocharger solenoid valve".
Please, correct me if I'm wrong people. There are no write-ups on boost controller installs.

-K

Chris Ng

The green solenoid valve they refer to is for the twin scroll actuator.. leave it alone..

your wastegate gets it's boost signal from the compressor housing nipple.. remove that line.. attach a new line from the compressor housing nipple into the input side of the profec's solenoid, and another line into the wastgate nipple from the profec's output nipple

Kanaida

fahck mey! okay, well - actually, wouldn't I block off the nipple on the compressor and then put input to a vacuum, and output to the wastegate? Being that the profec wants to see vac? I'll strap back in my twin scroll solenoid.. **** ****!

-Kanaida

Chris Ng

Your profec comes with 3 components..
1) the controller itself which mounts in your car and has a wireing harness to it
2) a pressure sensor
3) a solenoid (or stepper motor, can't remember what the profec uses)

Anyhow, the pressure sensor is the item you have to hook up to a vacume source.. tee into the stock boost line or your FPR line or any other vac/boost source
The solenoid (stepper motor) needs to be connected to the nipple on your compressor housing...

You set a boost level on the controller.. the pressure sensor tells the controller what boost you are at.. when you reach the set boost level, then controller instructs the solenoid to fully open.. boost pressure from the compressor housing is routed through the now open solenoid and into the wastegate actuator, which then opens your wastegate...

Kanaida

that's a negatory on the pressure sensor. comes with control unit (in car piece), Motor section, air filter, elec. harness, hose, hose, connection harness. Then screws, hose bands, vac. line joints, mounting brackets, and adjustment driver. No pressure sensor.

Looking at the manual some more, I'm pretty sure that the motor is its own sensor. All 3 diagrams have the line from the wastegate to the compressor split and both going to the motor. So I'll just run the compressor nipple to the in on the motor, and the wastegate to the out. Then just give the control unit vac. Sweet, should be a piece of cake. (yeah right)

-K